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Build It, kitchen, Kitchen Renovation, moulding, renovation, Tutorial, Window, window dressing

How to Install Trim and Casing Moulding on a Casement Window

After installing a new casement window in our kitchen,I chose to install a beautiful decorative window moulding. Today I’m going to show you how easy it is to Install Trim and Casing Moulding!

How to Install Trim and Casing Moulding

I’m excited to be sharing more tutorials from the kitchen renovation. I hope you’ll excuse me as we jump back and forth in the renovation process. I’ve been trying to get the most relevant tutorials to you as soon as I can. Speaking of relevant, I understand there are a lot of under-dressed windows out there that need trim or could use a little more “WOW Factor”! Is that your case—ment? (Sorry, I couldn’t resist.)
Let’s go over the details for installing window trim and casing on a casement window. Have no fear if you have a double hung window or other, these techniques will work for those windows too.

Replacement vs. New Construction Windows:

But, let’s back up for a minute. I wanted to share with you a little snafu that happened with our casement window. When I ordered it, the guy taking the order asked me a few questions and somewhere there was a translation breakdown. He thought I needed a replacement window because I was replacing an existing window. What he didn’t realize is that I was increasing the size of the window opening and therefore needed a new construction window. In the end, I was stuck with the replacement window, but my handman and I used as many weather-stripping, caulking, and water barrier techniques we could think of to keep it water tight.

This is what you need to know when ordering a new window: If you are removing the old and putting in a new window into the same frame, you can order a replacement window. If you are expanding or changing the size of your window opening (or you want to start with a full window replacement that you can flash on the exterior and add insulation around the rough opening) you will order a new construction window.

But, let’s learn how to install trim and casing moulding on a window.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Instructions for Installing Trim, Casing and Moulding on a Window:

The window has been installed. Use this opportunity to use an expanding foam to seal around the window frame while it’s exposed. This will cut down on drafts. Allow the foam to cure and trim off any excess that would interfere with the casing installation.

Find the center of your actual window (not the rough opening) and make a pencil mark under the window. Use this mark as your guide for the stool and the window trim.

First measure and cut the window stool. You can use a jigsaw, coping saw or hand saw to cut out the edges of the stool so it fits snug against the window and has a reveal over the sides of the window. Take into consideration the width of the window casing and trim on each side and add an inch for the stool to extend beyond the trim. (see photo below to visualize the end product.)

With your stool dry fit in place, check the level of the stool and use wood shims to level if necessary.

Add a bead of construction glue and set the stool on top. Secure the stool moulding to the window sill with nails.

Safety note: When using a finish nailer be sure to wear eye protection and hearing protection. Don’t worry, you’ll look totally cool in your snazzy safety gear. It’s better than the missing eyeball look.

You may need to build out the window frame by cutting a 2×2″ board for the top of the window. Level the top with shims and secure it with finish nails.

Cut two more pieces of 2×2 for the sides. Make sure you have the same reveal on the window for each side (refer back to your center mark.)

Make sure the sides are plumb. Secure the sides with finish nails and break the shims off by scoring them with a utility knife and breaking them with your hand. (You don’t have to sing the Kung Fu Fighting song when doing this, but I do.)

Time to add the side pieces of casing and backer board. The backer board is not necessary, but I like to beef up the trim on my doors and windows. It’s an easy process, and makes your home look more custom and less builder-grade.

Decide what amount reveal you want showing on the window stop. Mark this depth on the 2×2″ window stops. Typically 1/8″ to 1/4″ is used.

Measure and cut your window casing to meet the 1/8″ reveal. Be sure you have a consistent reveal from top to bottom and then secure the window casing with finish nails.

Measure and cut the backer band to the same height. Set it tight against the casing and secure with finish nails.

Your window should look like this at this point with the two side pieces of casing installed.

Cut the 1″ x 6″ board to fit even with the outside edges of the casing and backer band. Attach it above the window with more finish nails.

Cut the small cove and the small base trim pieces to fit across the top and bottom of the 1″ x 6″ board. The ends should be mitered where they meet the edges. Cut, two pieces at a 45 degree angle to act as a return for the moulding. Here’s a closer look:

Before securing the returns, add a dab of glue to hold it in place. Then use painter’s tape to hold the returns while they dry. After the glue dries, secure the returns with a finish nail in the center of each.

Now the window trim and moulding is finished and it’s time to putty all of the nail holes with wood putty.

Caulk all the seams where the trim pieces meet each other and the wall and window.

If you need a tutorial for how to caulk like a pro, I’ve got you covered!After the wood putty has dried, sand it smooth using a sanding sponge.

Wipe off any sanding dust off with a damp rag. Prime and paint your window.

And you’ll never see the seams!

Congratulations, you just learned how to install trim and casing moulding.

The depth of our sill, it’s just enough to set a vase onto. You may note I decided to forgo the traditional apron, and ended up using pencil edge marble tiles instead.

That seemed relatively easy, don’t you think? Trimming out a window is a personal affair, so be sure to experiment and get creative with your trim moulding. Remember, it’s your house, you can dress it up the way you want!

Here is another great trim tutorials:

How to Install Window Trim by Remodelando la Casa

Pin this image to save for later!

February 18, 2025/20 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

kitchen, Kitchen Renovation, Millie's Remodel

Millie’s Remodel: Revealing the Ugly Ranch to Mid-Century Modern Dream House

It took me six months to renovate the three bedroom Millie’s Remodel house, but it’s taken me much longer to share the reveal with you. Today is the day, I’m taking you inside for a full tour! Are you ready for this amazing transformation?

Millie’s Remodel: Ugly Ranch to Mid-Century Modern Dream House

I’m so honored to take you on a tour of the Millie’s Remodel house today! I know you’ve been so patient, and I can’t thank you enough. To be totally honest, the house has been finished for a year, but life has been upside down for me this last year. Regardless, I am excited to invite you in to see the progression of this house from an ugly ranch to a mid-century modern dream house!

Video Tour:

To give you the full experience, I created a video tour just for you! If you like, you can read on to see still photos and learn more about all the work that went into this house. I hope you enjoy the tour and feel free to leave me a comment on YouTube or here. If you are looking for the source for anything in the house, scroll down to the end of this post.

Did you enjoy that video? Want to dive deep into the entire Millie’s Remodel? You can watch all the videos in the Millie’s Remodel playlist:

Millie’s Remodel Before and After:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

When I bought the house, it was a bit of an eyesore from the curb. Especially with an ugly carport, weeds, and the leaning split rail fence.

The color scheme had to go. Nothing screams 1990’s like a house with tan vinyl siding paired with hunter-green vinyl shutters. Speaking of hunter green, I hear it’s making a comeback. What do you think, is it time to embrace it again?

I knew I wanted to paint the entire house from the start and luckily I discovered Romabio Masonry paint, a mineral paint that allows the brick to breathe after application. This prevents the paint from bubbling and flaking, but more importantly, it protects the brick from deterioration. Before painting, my siding contractor stripped off the dated vinyl siding. We were both amazed when the original wood siding was discovered underneath in perfect condition. Many times adding aluminum or vinyl siding over wood will lock in moisture and cause wood rot.

After agonizing over the color choices, I chose Romabio’s Sage Advice as the color to paint the house. I love the green color and the fact that it is completely different from the adjacent houses.

But, Millie still needed a little more style, so I decided to try my hand at building shutters. These DIY Modern shutters were remarkably easy to build and I was able to finish them over the weekend and install them around the front windows.

You probably noticed I painted the front door too. It’s called Loyal Blue by Sherwin Williams. A DIY modern address number sign, a modern mailbox, and a modern bubble glass light completed the transformation of this home’s curb appeal.

The only thing missing was some foundation plantings. After all, we can’t have Millie looking a little naked from the waist down!

My friends at STIHL sent me the KombiSystem to clear gravel from the front, till the soil, and plant new bushes. You can see more details about this amazing battery-powered motor that has a huge variety of interchangeable heads in my mailbox garden bed tutorial.

That looks much better. Within a year, the Japonicas have really filled out. But, the privets aren’t too happy. I might switch them out this fall.

Although the back of the house will only be visible to the tenants, it got some major changes as well.

The first thing to go was the very loud and broken HVAC unit. During the inspection, it was cooling fine, but wouldn’t heat because a safety feature had kicked on. I was more than happy to let my friends at TRANE install a new system. You can read the amazing story of how long a TRANE will really last here.

One of the strategies I implemented when renovating this house was to replace all the systems to eliminate lots of repair calls. Installing a new HVAC unit was a smart decision and gives potential tenants peace of mind knowing that they won’t have any issues with the heat or air conditioning. We also ran new electrical wiring in the house (because there was no ground wire) and new plumbing because of the plethora of leaks from the old pipes.

Another thing that needed to go was the ugly dilapidated shed. From the looks of it, I worried the shed would fall apart when we tried to move it. At a minimum, it needed to at least be raised onto concrete blocks because the floor system was built on the ground giving easy access to termites and other insects.

My husband, my teenage son, and I spent a day rolling the shed to the back of the lot. It was slow going at first until we learned the easiest way to roll it. You can see our adventures moving the old shed. Believe it or not, it was a very rewarding experience!

After adding paint and trim, it’s hard to believe this is the same shed! I’ll let you in on a little secret: the new windows are actually the old window sashes from the bathroom window. Keep scrolling to find out why I replaced the bathroom window.

The front and back of the house got new gutters to prevent wood rot and protect the foundation from water damage. Do you like the rain chain? It was the best solution for an area that would have been difficult to add a downspout.

Interior Transformation:

Enough about the outside, let’s go inside to see the transformation!

The Living Room:

It’s a good thing you can’t smell this picture. Although the house looked clean, the smell was a horrid concoction of mold, menthol cigarettes, and fish odor.

Just inside the front door was the combined living and dining area. Besides a dated ceiling fan and boob light, there was a decent amount of natural light in this room. However, the carport outside the windows facing the driveway was ugly and blocked the view. I sold the carport on Facebook Marketplace and someone came and disassembled it and hauled it off in one day.

The carpet appeared to be brand new, but it was just cut and laid on the floor. No floor pad, and thankfully no staples! This made for super easy removal of the carpeting throughout the house. Likewise, the laminate flooring in the dining area popped up easily. But, underneath was peel and stick vinyl tiles that left a gooey mess on the wood floor. I spent the better part of a day cleaning it off the wood with Citristrip and mineral spirits.

To capitalize on an open concept layout, the corner wall to the kitchen had to go. (I consulted with my structural engineer, who showed me how the roof system was a series of trusses that supported the weight of the roof without this wall.) This one small change made a big difference in the entire feel of the home.

Yes, I swear this is the same house! The doorway you see in the dining area leads to a newly added powder room and laundry area. More on that space later.

The Kitchen:

The kitchen needed the most work of any room in the house. The floor was rotted under the fridge.

The walls behind the cabinets were filled with plumbing leaks and consequently mold growth.

But, the biggest feat was leveling the kitchen floor for tile. It was a good 1.5 inches out of level and ultimately I had to pour self-leveling compound and use cedar shakes to shim along the sink area.

But, the results were well worth the effort! Don’t you agree?

I embraced the black and white color palette and used gold accents to add warmth.

Those hexagon pendants are my favorite light fixtures in the house.

Besides the pendant lights, my second favorite features are the floating shelves with under cabinet lighting. You can follow my tutorial to build these super-strong display shelves.

The coat closet across from the kitchen got a light and shelves to create a much-needed pantry storage area.

To make up for the lack of a coat closet, I created a coat rack area inside the back door.

The Main Bathroom:

This was the only bathroom in this house and it had definitely seen better days!

The chipped frameless mirror, super short vanity, and Hollywood light fixture had to go.

Although the tub was cast iron, it had a horrible DIY paint job on it. The window was an original wood window that was deteriorating from the water and moisture in the shower. I removed it and used the sashes on the shed you saw up above.

During demolition, I found a nest in the wall behind the shower walls, a huge rotting hole under the toilet, and a mouse hotel under the tub. After a full gut, the bathroom received the royal treatment with all new tile, plumbing fixtures, and a stylish mid-century modern vanity (which was previously a dresser! See how to make a vanity out of a dresser here.)

The lighted mirror from Kichler puts off the softest and most flattering light. Now I need to incorporate lighted mirrors in my own bathroom project!

This was my first time using Schluter Profiles instead of caulk joints. After a year, it’s wonderful not having to replace or clean moldy caulk.

The new window is vinyl so it won’t rot or deteriorate. It also has obscure glass so no one can see into the bathroom.

While my plumber was replacing the plumbing lines, he ran new lines to the old laundry room for a new half bathroom. Adding a second bathroom was a huge improvement to this small house.

The powder room shares space with a stacked washer and dryer, but you’d never know because usually it’s hidden behind the curtain.

Using the light patterned Mia 4 Lili Cement tiles kept the room bright even though the only window is the transom over the toilet.

The Bedrooms:

Down the hall from the kitchen and living area are three bedrooms.

Lucky for me, the bedrooms needed minimal work. After removing the carpeting, I had the wood floors sanded and refinished.

Unfortunately, the house had a variety of door styles. Luckily, I found a few flat panel doors at my local Habitat ReStore that was more fitting of the house age and style. They all got a few coats of Dark Night paint by Sherwin Williams and new doorknobs from Schlage.

My favorite upgrade in the bedrooms was adding modern LED ceiling fans. The fan above is the Ridley II from Kichler, and this one below is the Incus fan, also from Kichler.

This concludes the tour. I hope you enjoyed following the Millie’s Remodel project. Would you love to see me transform another investment house?

In the meantime, I’ve already started working on some projects in my own home for a change. I can’t wait to share them with you.

Sources:

Living Room:

LED lights: Horizon II from Kichler

Wall color: Repose Gray by Sherwin Williams

Wood Floor stain: Golden Oak by Minwax

Century Smart Lock Front Door Hardware from Schlage

Kitchen:

Cabinets: Charleston Driftwood by Cabinets to Go

Drawer pulls

Countertop: Via Lactea Granite

Forious Gold Faucet with Sprayer

USB charging outlets by Leviton

Floor Tiles: Iron Anthracite by Happy Floors

Backsplash Tiles: Misha Hex Tiles

Lighting:

LED Tape Lights from Kichler

Rocklyn Hexagon Pendants from Kichler

Industrial Coat Hooks from Liberty Hardware

Bathroom:

Moen Tub & Shower Fixtures

Moen Tub/Shower Valve

Moen Tub Drain Kit

Bootz Insulated Soaking Tub

Moen Sink Faucet

Integrated Light & Exhaust Fan

Vegas 3 Cement Tiles by Lili Tiles

Vanity Top: Honed Negresco Granite

Modern Dresser turned into a Vanity

Door Hardware: Schlage Latitude Door Knobs

24″ Towel Bar & Toilet Paper Holder

One Piece Toto Toilet

Ryame Lighted Mirror from Kichler

Jasper Three Bulb LED Light from Kichler

Wall Color: Repose Gray by Sherwin Williams

Door Color: Dark Night by Sherwin Williams

Powder Room/Laundry Room:

Sink Vanity & Top: Allen + Roth 24 inch Presnell Navy Vanity & Porcelain Top

Sink Faucet: Keeney Delphi Matte Gold 2-handle 4-in centerset Bathroom Sink Faucet with Drain

Modern Black Frame Round Mirror

Indeco LED Light by Kichler

Armstrong Ceiling Light by Kichler

Broan Exhaust Fan

Mia 4 Cement Tiles from Lili Tiles

Toilet Paper Holder & Hand Towel Bar

Bedrooms:

Incus Fan from Kichler

Ridley II Fan from Kichler

Wall Color: Repose Gray by Sherwin Williams

Door Color: Dark Night by Sherwin Williams

Door Hardware: Latitude by Schlage

A special thank you to all the sponsors of the Millie’s Remodel house. As you know, I’m very particular about the brands I work with. I only recommend brands and products I’d use in my own personal house because I want to use fixtures that will outlive me.

Thanks for joining me on this journey! It was a lot of fun and I can’t wait to start on a new project.

October 1, 2021/0 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

Learn the simplest and most accurate way to build drawer boxes with this easy tutorial.

Drawer Box Build

Welcome back, this is Kristen from In Her Garage Woodworking here with another build plan for you. When I first began my DIY woodworking journey over 5 years ago I was most intimidated by building drawers. I avoided them because I thought there were too many measurements and too much room for error. But, with a simple plan and a lot of practice, I now make drawers consistently and accurately. These are the exact plans I use to this day to make drawer boxes for all of my commissioned furniture pieces because when you’re able to make something quickly and easily that is solid and looks great, why would you ever change it?

Materials

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

3/4” thick board (or plywood) (purchase the width of your choice at the circumferential measurement of the drawer box needed)
1/4” plywood panel
1 ¼” pocket screws
Titebond 3 wood glue
Drawer slides

Tools

Miter saw or circular saw
Table Saw (or use your circular saw and this jig)
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer

Instructions:

Your drawer can be any depth you wish, but before building the drawers, rip your 3/4″ material to the drawer height you desire (if you are using plywood or if your 3/4″ material is wider than your finished drawer.

Step #1: Cut drawer box sides

Using your miter or circular saw, cut two identical 3/4” boards to the same length of the drawer slides you’ll be using.

Step #2: Cut drawer box front and back

Cut two pieces of the 3/4 inch material for the front and back of the drawer box. If you’re using ¾” material to build the drawer box then the length of the front and back can be calculated as follows (see equation and picture below):

Width of drawer box – 1½” = width of front and back drawer box boards

Step #3: Add groove for drawer bottom (optional)

Taking all four 3/4″ boards to the table saw cut a groove 1/4” from the bottom of all sides that is 1/4” deep. Run the 3/4 board through one time, then adjust the fence (or your saw) to cut another groove next to the first. (A standard saw blade is 1/8” wide so you will need to make two passes in each board to achieve a 1/4″ groove for the 1/4″ drawer bottom material.

Dry-fit the plywood to check for fit.

Step #4: Create pocket-holes

Using your Kreg jig make 2 pocket-holes at either end of the front and back boards on the opposite side as the plywood bottom groove if you chose to do this step. Be sure to avoid the groove.

Step #5: Assembly

If you DID NOT cut a groove to accept the plywood bottom, then you can assemble the drawer box using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.

Then, you will cut your bottom 1/4″ panel to the length and width of the drawer box and simply glue and nail it to the bottom of the drawer box

If you DID create a groove for the bottom panel assemble the front and both sides using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.

Next, cut the ¼” plywood to fit into the bottom of the drawer box groove dry fitting the back panel to check for fit.

Once you have the correct size for the plywood bottom then slide it into the groove and attached the back piece of the drawer box using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws. There is no need to apply glue into the panel groove. The plywood bottom will “float” in place.

No need to worry about filling the pocket-holes because you will be applying a drawer face directly over them.

Be sure to check for square by measuring both diagonals of the drawer box. If one measurement is longer simply squeeze the longer diagonal until both are the same.

Allow drawer box to dry.

That is the basic drawer box build that I use and it is strong and easy to put together. I hope this tutorial gives you the confidence to tackle that project you’ve been putting off. Next, I will teach you my favorite method for installing drawers and how I troubleshoot drawer boxes that just aren’t quite the right fit!

Finishing Tips:

If you are making your drawer boxes out of plywood then check out Brittany’s Edge Banding Tutorial and learn how to cover that unsightly plywood edge.

Wondering how, or if, you should apply a protective finish to the drawer box? If I am working with solid wood for the drawer sides then I will give the material a quick finish sanding and that’s it. But, for plywood, I typically do one of two things, depending upon what I have on hand at that time.

Option 1: Apply 1 or 2 coats of sanding sealer to raise the grain of plywood and sand smooth. Sanding sealer is clear, easy to apply, and dries quickly. If I have the time and patience I may also apply a quick spray of clear, semi-gloss, water-based topcoat to give it a little shine but it isn’t necessary.
Option 2: Apply 2 to 3 coats of spray shellac to seal the plywood. Spray shellac dries quickly and won’t leave any chemical smell behind. But be aware that it will give the plywood a slight amber tone which typically isn’t big deal. Remember to lightly sand between coats.

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom and, registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the pieces we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box, and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips, and tricks.

Making something beautiful with your own two hands through a little preparation and determination is an amazing feeling and I hope to bring inspiration and know-how to those looking to tackle a big or small project.

I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on Pinterest, Instagram, and Facebook to see what I am working on right now. And check out the brand new In Her Garage Etsy shop for other plans or to have a furniture item made especially for you!

February 17, 2021/0 Comments/by In Her Garage

kitchen, Kitchen Renovation, Millie's Remodel

Millie’s Remodel: Installing the Kitchen Cabinets

Join me today as I share this Millie’s Remodel Update where I’m installing the kitchen cabinets (mostly by myself!)

Millie’s Remodel: Installing the Kitchen Cabinets

Hey all you Millie’s Remodel fans! Today we’ll be hanging out in the kitchen to install the kitchen cabinets. If you’ve never installed cabinets, it’s not too difficult, but installing them level is important before you can have the countertops installed.

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Welcome back to a new Millie’s Remodel update. Today we’re finally giving the kitchen function by installing the cabinets.

As a reminder this is what the kitchen looked like when I bought the house.

After removing the old cabinets I discovered more water leaks than I’ve ever seen in a house. If there was a water line, it had a leak! There was lots of mold forcing me to complete some HAZMAT demolition while taking extreme precautions. It’s been quite a process building the kitchen back.

Interior Design Help:

As I was trying to wrap my head around a kitchen design plan, I discovered a local designer on Instagram and reached out to her. Elizabeth Burns, a local interior designer helped me come up with a floor plan for the kitchen. Now I can’t wait to get started making those plans a reality.

I ordered all the cabinets from Cabinets-to-Go. Although I previously used a shaker style cabinet from Cabinets-to-Go for Saving Etta, I decided to use a modern-looking cabinet for Millie and selected the Charleston Driftwood cabinets.

When the cabinets arrived for pick up, I loaded my truck and drove them straight to the Millie’s Remodel house. That’s where I discovered several of the boxes were super heavy and labeled with a warning label that it was a two-person lift. Being that I was working alone most of the time, I attempted to unload all the boxes by myself. You can see how that went and how the installation process when in this video:

Something Different for the Range Hood Cabinet:

When it came time to choose a range hood cabinet, I decided to use a simple white cabinet with a glass front instead of the Charleston Driftwood. I wanted the cabinet to float on the wall and not look dark. The only snafu was the sides of the cabinet are white, where I thought they would match the glass frame (stainless steel.) To solve the issue, I installed self-adhesive stainless steel vinyl on the side. It looks much better now and once the open shelves and backsplash are installed you probably won’t even notice it.

The range hood was a mid-range Broan NuTone stainless steel under cabinet hood. It wasn’t super fancy but looks sleek and modern. This is a similar range hood to the one I bought.

Once the range hood was hung, I connected the ductwork and hid it behind some extra shelving material that came with the white cabinet.

Affordable Cabinet Pulls:

I opted for modern gold pulls on the cabinet drawers and the cabinets. Luckily, I purchased them for a steal on Amazon. When they arrived, they felt lightweight, but once mounted onto the doors you can’t tell that they feel less than solid.

I ended up putting a small microwave into the pantry cabinet (shown above). Personally I don’t like seeing the microwave on display in a kitchen and this hides it away nicely until the renters want to use it.

After a busy week, the kitchen cabinets are finally installed and ready for the countertop templating process.

Next week I’ll take you with me to shop for countertops. It’s going to be fun!

Have you been enjoying the Millie’s Remodel updates? Have you missed any of them?

Millie’s Remodel: First Day Tour

Millie’s Remodel: Mini Demo Update

Millie’s Remodel: HAZMAT Demolition

Millie’s Remodel: Why I’m Canceling my Termite Contract

Millie’s Remodel: Framing, Plumbing, & Electrical Oh My!

Millie’s Remodel: HVAC Update (How to Extend Your System’s Life Span)

Millie’s Remodel: Main Bathroom Design

Millie’s Remodel: Powder Room & Laundry Room Design

Millie’s Remodel: Kitchen Design Plans

Millie’s Remodel: Help Me Decide! Mid-Century Lighting Options

Millie’s Remodel: Tips and Tricks to Self Level a Floor

Millie’s Remodel: How to Waterproof Floors in Any Room

Millie’s Remodel: Drywall Update and Critters

Millie’s Remodel: Laying the Cement Tiles in the Bathrooms

Millie’s Remodel: Help Me Choose Exterior Paint Colors

Millie’s Remodel: Exterior Paint Color Reveal

Millie’s Remodel: Front Exterior Reveal

Millie’s Remodel: Lighting and Fan Reveal

Millie’s Remodel: Moving the Shed

A special thank you to the Millie’s Remodel Sponsors:

The Millie’s Remodel project sponsors have donated materials for the Millie’s Remodel project. As you know I am very particular about the brands I work with and recommend. As a general contractor, I choose the products used on my projects wisely to make sure they last a lifetime. Therefore, I have no reservations putting my name behind each and every one of these sponsors.

July 31, 2020/2 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

Decorating, designer, kitchen, Kitchen Renovation, Millie's Remodel

Millie’s Remodel: Kitchen Design

The kitchen at Millie’s Remodel has been opened up by removing a wall and the moldy drywall and subfloor have been replaced. Now it’s time for me to start thinking about the kitchen design elements for this very important space.

Millie’s Remodel: Kitchen Design

Do you remember what the kitchen looked like when I first started working on Millie’s Remodel? The room was closed off and had two doorways from the house plus a back door.

The wall behind the refrigerator needed to come down in my opinion. This would allow for a much more open concept.

After tearing down that corner wall, it was amazing how much more light flooded into the kitchen area. Plus, it made the kitchen feel more spacious.

You may recall I worked with a local designer to create a fresh vision of the kitchen layout.

I still have some issues to contend with (like a very sloped kitchen sub-floor). But first I need to create a design plan for the kitchen. A design board will allow me to order cabinets, lighting, and other fixtures. I am leaning toward a mid-century modern vibe in this house, especially since it was built in 1957. Simple fixtures and graphic lines will maintain a minimalist modern look.

Sources:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

I’m excited to start putting this Humpty Dumpty of a kitchen back together soon and see the finishes installed. I think they’ll look beautiful together. What do you think?

P.s. Schlage, and Kichler are sponsors of the Millie’s Remodel project. I am so grateful for their support of this project.

A special thank you to the Millie’s Remodel Sponsors:

The Millie’s Remodel project sponsors have donated materials for the Millie’s Remodel project. As you know I am very particular about the brands I work with and recommend. As a general contractor, I choose the products used on my projects wisely to make sure they last a lifetime. Therefore, I have no reservations putting my name behind each and every one of these sponsors.

February 14, 2020/2 Comments/by Brittany Bailey