4 image collage home maintenance exterior

Tackle these 27 DIY exterior home maintenance tasks to keep your house in great shape. Easy, budget-friendly tips you can handle yourself.

4 image collage exterior home maintenance projects

Home Maintenance Projects for the Exterior of Your Home

Taking care of the exterior of your home might not be the most exciting task, but it’s one of the best ways to keep everything running smoothly and looking great year after year.

From simple cleanups to small repairs, regular exterior home maintenance projects help prevent bigger, more expensive problems down the road while boosting curb appeal at the same time.

The good news is that many of these tasks are easy to tackle on your own and don’t require special skills or tools. A little effort now goes a long way toward protecting your home, keeping it safe, and helping it look its best in every season.

27 Exterior Home Maintenance Tasks

Stay ahead of wear and tear with these necessary exterior home maintenance tasks that help protect your home, boost curb appeal, and prevent costly repairs before they start.

PIN FOR LATER

15 diy exterior home maintenance collage

No one wants their heating to die in the winter, or their air conditioning to stop cooling in the summer. For that reason I have several tips to keep your HVAC system running smoothly.

Filter in Air Return with words: How to Keep Your HVAC system running smoothly

How to Keep Your HVAC System Running Smoothly:

Too long, don’t want to read this whole article? Well, if you only do one thing to prolong the life of your HVAC unit, it would be to change the filters regularly.

  1. Change Your Filters Regularly 
    Whether that means monthly or up to three months will depend on your home’s dust levels (and any pets you have.) Keep an eye on your filters. If they are showing more dust and hair before three months is up, change them more regularly. If your thermostat has the ability to program a filter change reminder use it. But, you can also add a note on your personal calendar. I like to mark the date I changed my filter directly on the filter with a permanent marker.
  2. Protect Your HVAC During Renovations
    If your home is going through a renovation, it’s important to change the filters after a lot of debris has been released into the air. Better yet, be sure to seal off vents in rooms that are being worked on. Vacuum the whole room unsealing the vent. Depending on the work being done, you may need to replace your air intake filters multiple times during construction.
  3. Keep Vents Exposed
    Keep your air vents free, don’t block them with furniture or rugs. It’s important for air to flow freely and to circulate from the vents to the air return. It’s even more important not to block the air return.
  4. Clear Vegetation from Around Exterior Unit
    Just as it’s important to keep vents clear inside, clear vegetation and landscaping around your exterior unit to keep your HVAC system running smoothly. A good rule is to clear at least 18 inches away from the unit. There needs to be proper airflow around the unit for it to work efficiently. If you hate the look of your HVAC unit, you can screen it, but be sure anything you use is 18″ away from it.
  5. Watch for Signs of a Struggling System
    Look for signs of leaks, bad odors, strange noises (upon starting), or ice forming on the lines. If you discover any signs call your HVAC technician immediately for service.
  6. Schedule Regular Maintenance Services
    One of the best ways to extend the life of your HVAC system and to avoid problems is to schedule a regular check up and cleaning for your equipment. Here’s a pro-tip: schedule in the Spring or Fall before temperatures become extreme and stress your system.

    Quarterly Reminders on Google | Pretty Handy Girl

Follow these tips and you’ll keep your HVAC equipment running smoothly for years to come.

Looking to hire a great HVAC contractor? I have a proven way to hire great contractors here.

signature

Learn the simplest and most accurate way to build drawer boxes with this easy tutorial.

Drawer Box Build

Welcome back, this is Kristen from In Her Garage Woodworking here with another build plan for you.  When I first began my DIY woodworking journey over 5 years ago I was most intimidated by building drawers. I avoided them because I thought there were too many measurements and too much room for error. But, with a simple plan and a lot of practice, I now make drawers consistently and accurately.  These are the exact plans I use to this day to make drawer boxes for all of my commissioned furniture pieces because when you’re able to make something quickly and easily that is solid and looks great, why would you ever change it?

Materials

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Tools

Instructions:

Your drawer can be any depth you wish, but before building the drawers, rip your 3/4″ material to the drawer height you desire (if you are using plywood or if your 3/4″ material is wider than your finished drawer.

Step #1: Cut drawer box sides

Using your miter or circular saw, cut two identical 3/4” boards to the same length of the drawer slides you’ll be using.

Step #2: Cut drawer box front and back

Cut two pieces of the 3/4 inch material for the front and back of the drawer box.  If you’re using ¾” material to build the drawer box then the length of the front and back can be calculated as follows (see equation and picture below):

Width of drawer box – 1½” = width of front and back drawer box boards

Drawer Box Diagram

Step #3: Add groove for drawer bottom (optional)

Taking all four 3/4″ boards to the table saw cut a groove 1/4” from the bottom of all sides that is 1/4” deep. Run the 3/4 board through one time, then adjust the fence (or your saw) to cut another groove next to the first. (A standard saw blade is 1/8” wide so you will need to make two passes in each board to achieve a 1/4″ groove for the 1/4″ drawer bottom material.

Dry-fit the plywood to check for fit.

 

Step #4: Create pocket-holes

Using your Kreg jig make 2 pocket-holes at either end of the front and back boards on the opposite side as the plywood bottom groove if you chose to do this step. Be sure to avoid the groove.

Step #5: Assembly

If you DID NOT cut a groove to accept the plywood bottom, then you can assemble the drawer box using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.

Then, you will cut your bottom 1/4″ panel to the length and width of the drawer box and simply glue and nail it to the bottom of the drawer box

If you DID create a groove for the bottom panel assemble the front and both sides using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.

Next, cut the ¼” plywood to fit into the bottom of the drawer box groove dry fitting the back panel to check for fit.

Once you have the correct size for the plywood bottom then slide it into the groove and attached the back piece of the drawer box using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.  There is no need to apply glue into the panel groove.  The plywood bottom will “float” in place.

No need to worry about filling the pocket-holes because you will be applying a drawer face directly over them.

Be sure to check for square by measuring both diagonals of the drawer box.  If one measurement is longer simply squeeze the longer diagonal until both are the same.

Allow drawer box to dry.

That is the basic drawer box build that I use and it is strong and easy to put together. I hope this tutorial gives you the confidence to tackle that project you’ve been putting off.  Next, I will teach you my favorite method for installing drawers and how I troubleshoot drawer boxes that just aren’t quite the right fit!

Finishing Tips:

If you are making your drawer boxes out of plywood then check out Brittany’s Edge Banding Tutorial and learn how to cover that unsightly plywood edge.

Wondering how, or if, you should apply a protective finish to the drawer box? If I am working with solid wood for the drawer sides then I will give the material a quick finish sanding and that’s it. But, for plywood, I typically do one of two things, depending upon what I have on hand at that time.

  • Option 1: Apply 1 or 2 coats of sanding sealer to raise the grain of plywood and sand smooth. Sanding sealer is clear, easy to apply, and dries quickly. If I have the time and patience I may also apply a quick spray of clear, semi-gloss, water-based topcoat to give it a little shine but it isn’t necessary.
  • Option 2: Apply 2 to 3 coats of spray shellac to seal the plywood.  Spray shellac dries quickly and won’t leave any chemical smell behind. But be aware that it will give the plywood a slight amber tone which typically isn’t big deal.  Remember to lightly sand between coats.

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom and, registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the pieces we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box, and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips, and tricks.

Making something beautiful with your own two hands through a little preparation and determination is an amazing feeling and I hope to bring inspiration and know-how to those looking to tackle a big or small project.

I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on PinterestInstagram, and Facebook to see what I am working on right now. And check out the brand new In Her Garage Etsy shop for other plans or to have a furniture item made especially for you!

As a general contractor, I’ve perfected how to hire great contractors. Over the years I’ve put together a list of questions I ask when interviewing contractors and calling references. Don’t let yourself be scammed, learn how to hire great contractors.

How to Hire Great Contractors - 20 Questions You Absolutely Need to Ask!

How to Hire Great Contractors and Questions You Need to Ask

Hiring a great contractor can be a tough task. The actual experience can be so paralyzing that some people ultimately give up on their dreams of a renovated space. I have a good friend who felt completely overwhelmed by the challenge of hiring a contractor to renovate her master bathroom. With media stories of people getting ripped off by bad contractors, I could understand her trepidation. Today I want to give you some tips on How to Hire Great Contractors. Plus, you can download a printable with the Questions You Need to Ask both the contractor and their references here.

Recently I’ve been vetting contractors to work on the Saving Etta project. I know first hand how difficult and scary it is to hire a stranger to work inside your home. When you factor in the amount of money you will be paying this person, it’s enough to lose sleep over the decision. Let me break down the steps for hiring a reputable contractor so you can finally have that renovation or addition you’ve always dreamed of.

How to Find Contractors:

I am of the belief that you should start with recommendations from people you know or at least people in your circle (neighbors, social groups, or friends.)  I frequently use Nextdoor.com to look for referrals for contractors. (Especially if there are multiple neighbors who used the same contractor and were all pleased with the work.) Another reason I like finding contractors through neighbors is because I know the contractor is familiar with renovations on homes that were built around the same time frame as our house. This is important, especially if you have an old home.

If you can’t get any recommendations from neighbors, ask your friends who just had a renovation completed.

If you’re still striking out, go visit a local kitchen and bath showroom and ask if they have any contractor recommendations. Oftentimes, the designer can tell you who they work with. You can also hire an interior designer who may have a contractor they work with regularly.

As a last resort, search for contractors on Google, Facebook, YelpCraig’s List, Nextdoor, or the Yellow Pages. It may be daunting to find contractors through this route, but hopefully the rest of this article will help weed out the dishonest and disqualified contractors.

How to Use the Web to Look for Reviews:

After acquiring a list of names, I like to perform some online sleuthing. Search for the company name in the Better Business Bureau database and read all the complaints. If they’ve had one or two, you don’t need to completely eliminate that business. But, if the contractor has numerous complaints, it’s probably best to remove them from the list of contractors to consider.

Next, perform a Google or Yelp search for the business name (be sure to include the city and state they are located in) and or the business owner to see what pops up. More recently, people are posting their reviews and cautionary tales on Nextdoor.com.

Contacting Contractors:

When you call the contractors you have selected, be upfront and honest about your project, the time frame, and your budget. Oftentimes good contractors may not be able to take your job right away or may charge more than you can afford.

Ask for References:

Get at least three recent references. (Ask for clients they’ve worked with in the last 3-6 mos. And ask them for client’s who had projects similar to your’s.)

Questions to Ask Contractor’s References:

This is probably the most valuable resource for you. Many people will call a reference and simple ask “were you happy with XYZ contractor?” But, you can get a lot more information about the contractor if you ask a few more questions. This is only a few of the questions I ask:

    1. Were you happy with the job the contractor did? Was the work performed to your standards?
    2. Did the contractor hire any tradespeople to help complete the job?
      • If so, what was the quality of the tradesperson’s work?
    3. Did you have to manage the tradespeople or did the contractor oversee their work?
    4. Were there any errors or mistakes that happened during the process?
      • If so, how did he or she handle them?
    5. What was the condition of your home (or job site) after the work was complete?
      • Was it cleaned up or was anything left behind?
    6. Anything you wish the contractor had done better?
    7. Was the contractor upfront with any cost changes?
    8. How accurate was the contractor’s timeframe?
    9. Did he/she show up on time or let you know of any delays?
    10. How were the inspections? Did he/she pass the inspections easily or were there any issues?
      • If there were issues, how were they handled?
    11. Did the contractor need to pull a permit and if so what for?
    12. Have you needed him/her to come back and fix or finish anything?
      • If so, how timely was that accomplished?
    13. Was the contractor open to your design preferences?
    14. Anything you want to add or any suggestions you have for me moving forward with this contractor?

For a complete list, I’ve created a questionnaire with all the questions I ask the contractor and their references. You can Download this printable questionnaire to use. (Feel free to make copies, but for your personal use only.)

Update on Backyard Landscaping | Pretty Handy Girl

What to Get from the Contractor BEFORE Work Begins:

Always get a quote before you hire a contractor (this can be a ballpark quote, but be sure to ask the contractor to alert you if they need to go over the quoted amount.)

If the contractor is a general contractor, electrician, plumber or a tradesperson that requires licensure, ask for their license number. Call or visit the licensing board website to verify that their license is up to date and the information matches their records.

Ask for a general liability insurance certificate (have your name and address included in the certificate holder’s field.)

Ask for their workman’s comp insurance if they have anyone working for them. And call the insurance company to verify that the policy is still active. 

At the end ask for a final lien waiver release after the work is done. This will protect you should the contractor fail to pay his or her subcontractors. If you don’t have a lien waiver and the subcontractors are not paid, a lien can be placed on your house until they receive payment.

Have a contract signed by yourself and the contractor that details the work you are expecting them to accomplish, the amount they quoted, and a timeline.

Red Flags to Look Out For:

  • Was the contractor forthcoming with the above information?
  • Ask the contractor if you need a permit. If they say no, be sure to ask more than one person if a permit is needed. And maybe even call your city permit office to verify that information.
  • Regarding the quotes, you will undoubtedly receive a range of quotes for your project. Be very wary if one contractor’s quote is significantly lower than the others. There is truth in the old adage, you get what you pay for.

During the project, occasionally ask your contractor if you are still on target and within budget. It’s better for everyone involved to keep the lines of communication open. Always allow 15 – 20% over the budget for surprises or incidentals. You never know what you might find in your walls when they are opened up.

Never Pay in Full:

If I have one important takeaway from this article, it’s to never pay in full until the job is completed to your satisfaction. Never fall victim to the claim, “I have to pay my guys.” If the job isn’t 100% complete, retain at least 10-15% of the total until the work is done. Once the contractor has all your money, you’ve lost all your bargaining chips.

More Information about Hiring Great Contractors (Video Chat):

A few weeks ago, I hosted a Facebook Live to talk more about how to hire great contractors and avoid getting burned. Here’s the Facebook Live video:

Good luck and remember, you can do this!

Now that you are one step closer to getting started with your project, you need to read this article: Are you Sure You’re Ready to Take on a Home Renovation?

Are You Sure You're Ready to Take on a Home Renovation? | Pretty Handy Girl

If you are thinking about renovating your kitchen, I have some great tips for Surviving without a Kitchen during Renovation:

Pin This to Save for Later:

20 Questions You Absolutely need to Ask to Hire Great Contractors

how to move a shed

You might remember the ugly Frankenshed behind the Millie’s Remodel house. It’s finally time to try to move this ugly monster. Whether we’re successful or not, I’ll share the Easiest & Cheapest Way to Move a Shed!

Millie’s Remodel: The Easiest & Cheapest Way to Move a Shed

A long long time ago (back before we had children), Pretty Handsome Guy and I were making a move from Philadephia to Charlottesville, VA. We packed our rented UHaul full to the brim and were ready to start the new adventure.

We were backing the truck out when we heard a loud scraping sound and suddenly the truck was stuck. The front wheels were still in the driveway, but the back of the truck had bottomed out on the crowned pavement (turns out a road really isn’t flat from side to side.) We were blocking traffic and didn’t know what to do. I tried calling UHaul but they said it was operator error and we needed to call a large truck tow company.

As I was searching around for someone to help, our neighbor took one look at the situation and ran to the back of the driveway. He came back and created a lever with some blocks and a 4×4 post. Then he put one end under the bumper and proceeded to perch on the other end of the 4×4 bouncing up and down. He told Pretty Handsome Guy to give the truck a little gas. Although my neighbor couldn’t have weighed more than 125 lbs., the lever gave us enough lift to get us unstuck.

Here we are about twenty years later, and I still remember that 4×4 lever trick! But, I have a few more tricks up my sleeve, because although you might be able to lift a shed with a 4×4 and some blocks, how do you move it from one side of your yard to the other?

The Easiest & Cheapest Way to Move a Shed:

Today, in the Millie’s Remodel updates we will attempt to move the Frankenshed.

ugly shed and patchy fence

This eyesore sits directly outside the back bedroom and I can’t even express how ugly it is with poor construction and ugly siding. Then there’s the piece of plexiglass screwed over the window opening.

ugly shed in backyard

But, the worst thing about this shed is the siding that is cracked, and the caulk used to fill the seams. Now you can understand why I don’t have high hopes for moving this monster in one piece. I kept the dumpster over the weekend because I think there’s a very good chance this shed will fall apart the minute we try to move it. If that happens, I’ll cut it apart in pieces and top off the dumpster.

But, hey, you’re no idiot. I’m sure you are thinking, “Brittany, if you title this post How to Move a Shed, that means you probably were successful. ”

Well, you’ll just have to see if you’re right and watch the video:

Materials:

  • 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 16′ (or as long as you can transport)
  • 3 – 4″ x 4″ x 10′
  • 6-8 Cinderblocks (depending on the size of your shed, you need least 6 to set the shed)
  • 4 – 3″ PVC pipes (at least as long as the length of your floor joists)
  • Drainage Gravel
  • Carjack
  • Level

Tips on Moving a Shed:

  1. Empty the shed (less weight is better)
  2. Have a helper or two
  3. Use longer lumber for better leverage
  4. Measure and determine the final resting location
  5. Make sure the final location is clear of obstacles (especially low branches)
  6. Pick a path and clear any obstacles
  7. Use 2x4s to act as tracks
  8. Use large PVC pipes to act as rollers
  9. PVC pipes roll best when perpendicular to the floor joists
  10. Elevate the shed on blocks off the ground (to prevent rot) unless you have a concrete pad

How to Move a Shed:

Set a block near the shed and slip the end of a 4×4 under the shed while resting on the block If you can’t get the 4×4 underneath, raise the shed up with a car jack, then slip the 4×4 underneath.

Lift the shed and slide 2x4s under the shed in the direction you want to roll the shed.

Set one PVC pipe under the shed in the middle of the shed. Release the 4×4 slowly. If the shed doesn’t tip toward you, you can add a little weight to the front to help it tip.

Lay two more PVC pipes on top of the 2x4s under the shed perpendicular to the 2×4’s and to the floor joists. Then slip one more PVC pipe in toward the front.

Remove the blocks and the 4×4 (but keep it nearby). Push your shed and let the PVC pipes roll underneath. As soon as one PVC pipe pops out the back, bring it to the front and roll onto it.

To turn the shed, put the 4×4 inside the door frame against one corner. Press against the other end of the 4×4 outside the door frame to pivot the shed. (You can see how this is done in the video.) Adjust your 2×4 tracks and place the PVC pipes perpendicular to the floor joists, then push the shed.

Perpendicular or Parallel to the Joists, why does it matter?

When the PVC pipes are placed perpendicular to the joists, the floor framing touches the pipes in multiple spots (as shown below.) This allows the shed to roll very easily.

The pipes can roll when parallel to the joists, but it’s much harder because the framing is not resting on the pipes at as many points, and the PVC may bow in between the blocking. You can certainly use the pipes parallel to the joists for pushing the shed out into an open area where you can then set the pipes perpendicular to the joists.

A Makeover for Frankenshed:

To clean up the look of the shed, my assistant Brett built a new door. Then he added trim and used the old bathroom window for a new window. Once my painter painted the trim and siding to match the house, it was unrecognizable.

before and after shed makeover

I can’t believe this is the same shed, can you?

before and after shed makeover

The old patchy privacy fence between the neighbor’s property was removed (it practically fell down when we removed the patched section).

Brett installed a new PVC privacy fence to match the one in the front of the property.

PVC privacy fence

Now that the exterior has a beautiful front and backyard, it’s time to start focusing on finishing the interior. Stay tuned for more Millie’s Remodel updates!

A special thank you to the Millie’s Remodel Sponsors:

The Millie’s Remodel project sponsors have donated materials for the Millie’s Remodel project. As you know I am very particular about the brands I work with and recommend. As a general contractor, I choose the products used on my projects wisely to make sure they last a lifetime. Therefore, I have no reservations putting my name behind each and every one of these sponsors.

millies remodel sponsors logos