DIY Modern House Number Sign

DIY Modern House Number Sign

A step-by-step tutorial on how to create a DIY modern house number sign that will update your homes curb appeal.

Do you want to update your homes curb appeal? Have you thought about upgrading the look of your homes house numbers? I’m Megan from TwoFeetFirst, and I am excited to share this project with you today. This is an easy DIY project that will update any front porch!

How much does it cost to build a house number sign?

The cost of this project will depend on the number of house numbers you need, plus where you purchase them. The project should cost about $30 (includes all materials) for a three number sign. If you happen to have some of the materials on hand, it will cost less.

DIY House Number Sign

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

House numbers (ones used were purchased on Etsy)
5/8″x 3.5″x 6ft cedar picket
1″ x 2″ x 8ft primed trim board
white exterior paint (spray paint works)
100% Tung oil (optional)
1 ¼” finishing nails
wood glue or construction adhesive
two – keyhole hanger
fasteners for wall
white paintable silicone
two – felt pads (optional)

Tools:

Instructions:

STEP 1: Decide on the layout

Before you can start cutting the wood, determine the layout for your house numbers. The easiest way to do this is by laying out the numbers on a solid surface. Move them around until you are happy with the layout.

Then measure the spacing between the numbers and the length from the first number to the last.

TIP: For a professional look, keep the spacing between the numbers the same.

If your spacing between the numbers is the same, add this equal spacing to the top number and bottom. By doing this, you increase the height of the sign.

(For example, my numbers had a spacing of 1.25″. Therefore, I added 2.5″ + my layout measurement (18.5″) which gave me 21″.)

SIDE NOTE: I also used the 3.5″ cedar boards to determine my space. If I used five pieces of the cedar, my distance would be 17.5″ and six pieces is 21″. So I decided to use 21″ to make things easy this way I was not cutting the boards width.

Also, add this spacing to the width of the widest number. This measurement will be what you cut your cedar board too. For example, my number 4 is my widest number, 3.5″. I then added 2.5″ (1.25″ two times) to this amount giving me the width of 6″.

STEP 2: Cut the cedar boards

Now that you have determined the size of the cedar base, you can cut the wood. Cut the board to your width measurement. I will be cutting mine at 6″.

TIP: Use a scrap board clamped to the saw fence to insure the exact cut for all your cedar pieces.

After cutting the cedar board, place them on a flat surface in a column. Then measure the length of all the pieces together, mine was 21″. Cut a piece of cedar board this length. This board will be the back support for the cedar pieces you already cut. We will call this piece the bracing.

Once the cedar boards are cut, cut your 1″x2″ trim. To cut the trim, rotate your saw to a 45-degree angle. Then cut an end of the 1″x2″ board (cut the board with the 1″ side facing up.)

Frame your cedar pieces with the 1″x2″ board. You need to add 1.5″ to the width of your cedar base. My width was 6″ so my measurement is 7.5″. This measurement will be the top and bottom of the frame.

Cut two 1″x2″ boards to this measurement. Remember you are cutting at a 45-degree angle, this measurement is the longest point of the 45-degree, the shorter will be the same width as your cedar boards.

Next, cut the side pieces of the frame (this will be the same length of your cedar base). Again you will need to add 1.5″ to the measurement, my height was 21″ so my size is 22.5″. Cut two 1″x2″ board at this measurement, (remember you’re cutting at a 45-degree angle).

Now test your 1″x2″ frame around the cedar base, adjust the boards if needed by cutting them to give you a snug frame.

SAFETY TIP: If your pieces are too small to hold safely, cut new pieces instead of risking personal injury. Always cut your shorter pieces from longer trim stock.

STEP 3: Paint the frame and seal the cedar

Once you’re happy with the frame, seal all the wood for outdoor use. Paint the 1″x2″ boards with outdoor paint and stain or seal the cedar boards with Tung Oil. Alternatively, you can leave the wood raw and it will grey over time.

SIDE NOTE: Tung oil helps waterproof wood plus it helps to bring out the color in the wood, see why it’s my favorite way to finish wood. I decided to paint the frame white and seal the cedar with Tung oil.

Follow the instructions on how to apply then let everything dry according to the instructions on the containers.

STEP 4: Build the frame

Once everything has dried, place the 1″x2″ pieces on a flat surface. Then arrange the pieces to make the frame.

Using 1.25″ nails, nail the 45-degree angles of the frame together.

Then place the cedar bracing inside the frame, center it then nail into place on the top and bottom.

To help protect the frame from outside elements, the joints (45-degree cuts) should be sealed with silicone. Apply silicone to the joints to seal the gaps.

SIDE NOTE: You will want to do this on any nail hole too.

Let the silicone dry then touch up the areas with paint. Let the paint dry completely before moving on.

Next is adding the cedar to the frame. Apply construction adhesive or wood glue to the cedar bracing. Then lay the cedar onto the bracing, rearrange if needed.

Secure the cedar boards to the sides of 1″x2″ frame with 1.25″ nails.

Again apply silicone to the frame to cover the nail holes. Once it has dried, repaint the areas with paint and let that dry too.

STEP 5: Install the house numbers to the frame

Now that the frame is built the house numbers can be installed. Place the numbers onto the frame then using a ruler align the numbers accorded to your predetermined layout.

Once you’re happy with the placement, use something (nail or pin punch) to make an indent into the cedar where a screw hole is for the house number.

Then pre-drill a hole (smaller than the actual screw for the numbers) in the indented places.

Attach the number to the frame using the pre-drilled holes.

STEP 6: Install hanging brackets and screws

Now that the house number sign is built, you need a way to secure it into place. There are many ways to do this, but I decided to use keyhole hangers.

Before installing the hangers onto the sign, I would recommend installing the screws into the wall. To do this, measure the back of the sign were the center of the brackets will be placed (you should have an idea of where this will be). In my case, the distance was 6.5″-6.75″.

This distance is how far apart the screws on the wall will be placed, secure the screws to the wall at the height you want. Remember to use the correct screws for the material you are securing to (i.e. anchor screws for masonry if you have a brick, block, or stone wall).

TIP: Place one screw then measure the second to the distance you determined before plus use a level!

Once the screws are in place, measure the distance between them because it may have changed. Then attach the hanging brackets to the sign, make sure the distance from the center of the brackets is the distance measurement you just measured.

TIP: Use a drill bit to drill a slightly bigger hole where the screw head will be.

TIP 2: Only attach the top of the brackets then check the level by placing the sign on the wall. If everything is level, attach the bottom screws. If its not level, adjust one bracket until it is level then attach the bottom screws.

You can also place two felt pads at the bottom of the sign to keep it from rubbing against the wall.

Now you can hang your house number sign!

To help you with the process, here is a video on how to make a house number sign.

This DIY tutorial on creating a simple modern house number sign will help you update your curb appeal and will make you happy when you see it!

~Find more of Megan’s projects here ~

June 19, 2019/2 Comments/by Megan Taylor

bathroom, Build It, DIY, Gift Ideas

DIY Wooden Bath Tray with Phone Holder

Are you looking to add some beautiful functionality to your bathroom? This DIY Wooden Bath Tray (with Phone Holder) is the perfect addition! It turns a plain bath tub into the perfect place to relax and unwind. I’m Sheri from Hazel + Gold Designs, and I am excited to share this DIY Wooden Bath Tray with you today. The best part about this tray is the added mount to secure your phone (so you can browse the web or watch a video while you’re relaxing.) Keep reading for all the details on how to make this bath tray yourself!

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

One board at least 48″ long. (I used brazilian cherry)
Orbital sander
Drill
1 ½” Forstner Bit
Drill bit (sized for hardware screws)
Pocket Hole Jig
Pocket Hole Screws
Wood Glue
Speed Square
Two Drawer Pull Handles
Cell Phone Tripod Adapter
Polyurethane
Ruler
Paintbrush
1″ wood screw

Instructions:

1. Prep the wood

The first step in this project is to cut your wood pieces. This diagram shows the measurements for my bath tub tray, but you will need to measure your tub and adjust the measurements accordingly.

Next, sand your wood pieces. If your wood is fairly smooth you can use a 180 grit then 220 grit. For rougher wood, use a coarser grit sandpaper first.

2. Drill holes

Use a forstner bit to drill shallow holes the size of tea light holders. The candles will sit into the groove making them less likely to slide off the tray.

Use a ruler to mark where you will place the handles.

Use a drill bit the size of your drawer pull screws and drill your holes as marked.

Next, take your two small pieces and drill pocket holes into one side. This is a quick and easy way to attach the bottom pieces of your tray. If you don’t have a pocket hole jig you could use other methods of joinery.

Attach the bottom boards to the bottom of your tray with wood glue and pocket screws. Be sure you size these to fit just inside each side of your tub. This will prevent the tray from sliding anywhere.

3. Finish with polyurethane

Finally, finish the entire DIY bath tray with polyurethane. You may want to use a poly that is made for exterior environments because you need a strong water-resistant finish. I applied three coats, letting each dry completely and sanding lightly with 220 grit sandpaper in between each layer. This gives you a beautiful smooth finish.

4. Add Handles and Phone Holder

Use your drill to attach the handles.

Attach the cell phone tripod adapter to the center of the tray with one screw.

Completed DIY Bath Tub Tray

Your project is finished! Add a washcloth, flower, candles, bath bombs and a glass of wine! They tray turned out so beautiful you’ll want to take a relaxing bath immediately.

Be forewarned your bath times may extend longer than normal.

This DIY Wooden Bathtub tray was easy to make! You should build one for yourself immediately.

Bonus: Your phone holder can turn so you can view things vertically or horizontally! Netflix binge watching? Bring it on.

If you like this project, please share it on Pinterest so others can enjoy it too. Thank you for reading!

Hi, I’m Sheri from Hazel + Gold Designs. Here are a few fun stats about me: I ~~like~~ love chocolate and peanut butter (together of course.) If you like stats, I have been crocheting for about 16 years, crafting for 20, and woodworking for about 4 years. I found a passion in making and being creative and began documenting my projects online at Hazel + Gold Designs.

When not working on projects, I enjoy spending time with my husband, four children, perfect dog, and ornery cat. You can find me on Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram and Twitter.

Read all of Sheri’s tutorials.

~Find more of Sheri’s projects here ~

Liked this project? If so, you’ll love this DIY Scrap Wood Laptop Stand:

Or this DIY Farmhouse Style Serving Tray:

May 29, 2019/0 Comments/by Sheri

art, arts and craft, Crafts, decor, Decorating, DIY, kids art

How to Make a Mini Macrame Wall Hanging

How to Make a Mini Macrame Wall Hanging

If there’s one hobby that has become quite the obsession for me – it’s macrame! It’s really fun to create and the projects are inexpensive to complete. Right now macrame wall hangings are all the rage, and add an eclectic look to your decor. Today I’m showing you how to make a mini macrame wall hanging. So chic!

If you’ve been wanting to start macrame—but are intimidated—you’re in luck! This project is small, simple, and can be completed in about 30 minutes!

This mini macrame wall hanging is a subtle nod to bohemian decor and it will look great pretty much anywhere in your home! Hang in your bathroom on in your office. Or, include it with a grouping of gallery wall prints for a more collected feel.

Here’s how to make it …

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Macrame Cording
Dowel, stick, hanger or anything that will hold your wall hanging. (I used an old knitting needle from my late grandmother. A great nod to a family memory!)
Scissors
Wire Brush

Instructions:

Step One – Cut your Cords

Start by cutting your macrame cording. You will need 20-20 inch cords for this project. (20″ will make a mini wall hanging. After you get the hang of this, you can make your macrame art skinnier or longer. Whatever your heart desires.)

Step Two – Attach with Lark’s Head Knots

Once you have your cords cut, you want to attach the cords by creating 20 lark’s head knots. Here’s a quick video to show you how to make a lark’s head knot:

Take your cord and fold it in half. Take the loop part and fish it under your rod. Loop the ends of the cords through the cord – and pull tight! Now repeat this 19 more times with the rest of your cords.

Step Three – Make a Row of Square knots

Now that your cords are all attached, we are going to make Square Knots and Alternating Square Knots. Here’s how to make a square knot:

To make a square knot – take the first four adjacent cords and do the following:

We are going to take the outer left cord and cross it over the two middle cords. Now take the outer right cord and place it on top of the left cord and UNDER the two middle cords.
Loop it through the hole on the left side.
Now pull to tighten the knot.
Now take the outer RIGHT cord and cross it over the two middle cords.
Take the outer left cord and place it on top of the left cord and UNDER the two middle cords.
Loop it through the hole on the right side.
Now pull your cords tight.

You have completed the full square knot.

You want to keep working the next four adjacent cords to make a row all the way across of square knots.

Step Four – Make a Row of Alternating Square Knots.

Our next row is going to be alternating square knots.

To make these knots – follow the same steps as above, however skip the first two adjacent cords – start with the third cord and work the adjacent 3 cords. Continue all the way across the row!

Step Five – Make a Row of Square Knots Again

To complete our mini macrame wall hanging, our last row will be a row of square knots – so follow Step 3 again.

You should have something that looks like the photo below.

Step 6 – Cut and Fray the Ends of your Wall Hanging

Take your scissors and cut straight across to create an even line of fringe. Take each cord and unravel it with your fingers.

Now, take a wire brush and carefully brush through the unraveled cords to fray them.

All done!

Now all you have to do is hang it up and enjoy your beautiful work. Can you imagine how pretty these would be if you made a trio of mini macrame wall hangings for a cohesive collage. I really love that idea.

I hung my mini macrame over the computer for some style and texture in this little corner.

If you want some additional help and projects – go to my blog and check out my Step by Step Basic Macrame Knots Guide. And check out the cool macrame planter hanger here on Pretty Handy Girl for another cool project!

Once you learn how to make the most basic knots – you can create all kinds of cool projects for your home. Such as Macrame Pillows, Mason Jar Covers, Jar Candle Hangers, Macrame Feathers – I could go on and on!

Feel free to leave me any questions or comments below – I hope this inspired you try Macrame if you haven’t yet.

I’ll see you right here next month with another awesome project for you.

~ See More of Karen’s Tutorials ~

Hello! I’m Karen, the creator of the Home Decor and DIY Blog: Decor Hint . I’m a Native of the East Coast, but I currently live in beautiful Seattle with my hubby, our two wonderful children and our spunky wheaten terrier.

You can usually find me with some sort of craft in one hand and a coffee in the other. And I’m always rearranging furniture or moving lamps from room to room. I have a passion (read: obsession) for decorating, DIY, and gardening. In short, I love making my house into a home.

Like many, I’m inspired by what I see in home decor magazines, but I’m not so inspired by the price tags. Consequently, I love finding and creating beautiful budget-friendly home decor items. In a head to head competition, I bet you’d never know the difference between the designer items and my DIY creations! Many of my DIY projects focus on sewing, crafting, upcycling and organizing. Some of my favorite projects have been making pretty wreaths , sewing my own tassel hand towels, and crafting these trendy wood bead garlands . I can’t wait to inspire you and spark your creativity through my DIY projects.

You can always connect with me on Pinterest , Twitter or Instagram.

May 22, 2019/1 Comment/by Karen Decor Hint

DIY, Home & Auto Maintenance, thrifting, Trash to Treasure, Upcycling, Video

How to Stretch Tight Shoes

How to Stretch Tight Shoes

Have you ever bought a pair of shoes because they were super cute, but they were a tad too tight. If you’re like me, you probably bought them and thought, “They’ll stretch out if I wear them enough.” Then a year or two later you put them on and remember why you don’t wear those shoes. They are just too tight. Frankly life is too short to wear uncomfortable shoes! I’m sure you are thinking, “Are you telling me to get rid of my uncomfortable shoes?” On the contrary, most too tight shoes can be stretched. Today I’ll show you how to Stretch those Tight Shoes and start wearing them comfortably!

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Instructions:

I created this short video for you to see how easy it is to stretch your own shoes. Let me know if you have any questions after watching the video.

Step 1: Determine Tight Areas

Determine where the tight areas on your shoe are. If your shoe stretchers have plugs, you can add them to the stretchers for maximum stretching in those areas.

Step 2: Use Stretcher

To loosen leather shoes, you may want to use a Shoe Stretching spray. Spray inside the shoe. Turn the knob on the stretcher to adjust the heel stretcher. Insert the shoe stretchers into your shoe. Tighten the heel knob. Then turn the metal rod until the stretchers are as wide as they can get in your shoes.

Step 3: Set in Warm Area and Wait

Set the shoes in the sun or leave them in a warm area for 24 – 48 hours. It’s a good idea to check your shoes after 24 hours. After 24 hours my shoes were still a little big snug. I left the stretches in for another 24 hours and set them in the sun because the heat helps stretch leather.

Step 4: Try Them On Again

Time to try your shoes on. If they are still too tight. Spray the stretching spray and turn the shoe stretchers to stretch more. Wait another 24 hours.

I’m so happy I can wear these clogs comfortably! And now I can stretch any future cute shoes I buy (within reason.)

Do you have a pair of tight shoes you want to try this on? Get to it, those shoes want to be worn.

May 20, 2019/4 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

Before and After, DIY, ReNew, renovation, Saving Etta, Video

How to Install Privacy Film on Windows

Do you have a window in your house that puts you on full display? Or maybe your neighbor’s house is very close to your’s and you feel like they can see in your window (especially a bathroom or bedroom window.) Sure you can add curtains or blinds, but then you won’t get the natural light you want from your windows. Today I have the solution to your privacy needs without blocking the light. Let me show you how easy it is to install privacy film to your windows with professional looking results.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Glass cleaner
Squeegee
Clean Rag
Metal Ruler
Pencil
X-acto Knife
Privacy Film
>>Get 20% OFF anything at StickPretty.com by using “PrettyHandyGirl” in the coupon code area!<<

About the Privacy Film:

Before we begin, I have to tell you when Stick Pretty approached me about using their product I was thrilled to find they have some very attractive options for privacy film! Those of us that shop at the big home improvement stores know the options for privacy film are fairly limited. Feast your eyes on just a few of the beautiful adhesive film patterns Stick Pretty has to offer:

And there is a semi-transparent option for blurred viewing (less opaque.)

That’s not all. You can also order any of the patterns in a sheer adhesive film to dress up your windows. All the adhesive window films are customizable with white, fog, mushroom, or black designs.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Stick Pretty also sells tile decals (to brighten your tiles or cover up ugly tiles.)

And they offer decorative adhesive panels for use on walls, furniture, or anywhere your imagination can think of.

If you find yourself falling in love with any of the products on the Stick Pretty website, don’t forget to get 20% OFF your order if you use the code: “PrettyHandyGirl” at checkout.

Now, on to the tutorial for installing privacy film on your windows.

Instructions:

Watch this quick video to see how easy it is to install privacy film to any window.

Step 1. Clean

Use glass cleaner and a lint free rag to clean the window really well. Make sure there’s nothing on the glass that will stick under the adhesive film (which would stick there forever until you take it off).

Step 2. Measure & Cut

Measure each pane of glass on your window. Add 1/8 of an inch, because it’s better to cut the film too big. We will cut off the excess at the end.

Transfer your measurements onto the privacy film. Use a sharp x-acto blade and a metal ruler to guide your cuts. Apply gentle pressure as you cut the film.

3. Installing the Privacy Film

Carefully peel up your privacy film and take it to the window immediately. If you wait, dust can settle onto your film.

The key to a really good adherence of the film to the window (with no bubbles or wrinkles) is to use a mixture of water and a few drops of dish soap in a spray bottle.

It also helps to use a good squeegee.

Spray a liberal amount of the water and soap mixture onto the glass. If you find the film sticking too much to the glass, spray more of the mixture onto the glass.

Line up the film at the top. Using your hands, push from the center, down and out to set the privacy film. If needed, lift the film and reposition.

Use the squeegee to push out any water and air bubbles. Again, working from the center out and top down.

Use a clean rag and run it along the edges to clean up any water that has squirted out.

Step 4. Trimming Excess

If your film is too large and overlaps off the glass, take a sharp x-acto knife and cut off the excess. Peel off the trimmed excess.

Then squeegee the film again and clean it up any water from the edges.

You can see the difference between the regular window glass and the glass with privacy film on it below.

After installing your privacy film, you may see some ghosting between the film and the window. As long as you have pushed all the air bubbles out of the film, the ghosting should go away after a few days. (Can you spot the ghost spots in the picture below? Within 48 hours they had disappeared.)

Hopefully this tutorial will help someone reclaim some privacy in their home without giving up natural light! Pin this image to share with a friend:

Friends, I have a question for you:

I decided to let the video tutorial guide you through the process on this tutorial instead of the usual step-by-step photos. Let me know what you think and if you miss the photos when there is a video tutorial. Thanks for your feedback.

Disclosure: Stick Pretty sent me the privacy film at no cost to try out on the Saving Etta project. I was not told what to say. All opinions are my own. If you use the coupon code: “PrettyHandyGirl” on the StickPretty.com website, you will receive a discount and I will receive a small percentage of the sale. As always, I am very particular about the brands I represent on this website and will always let you know if you are reading a sponsored post or if I received free materials.

If you liked this tutorial and want to add a layer of security to your glass doors or windows, you’ll appreciate my tutorial for adding security film to your home.

April 29, 2019/2 Comments/by Brittany Bailey