Hello readers, I’m Larissa coming to share with you a nature-inspired DIY project. Today, we’ll learn how to create a special DIY Log Bird Feeder treat for our feathered friends. The best part is that this can be a family fun activity to do AND to give as a gift for anyone who loves bird watching.
DIY Log Bird Feeder
We are avid bird lovers in our home and were delighted when a friend of mine gave us this bird feeder made from a piece of firewood and rope. How easy is that?
What a delight it is to see our tree clinging birds (nuthatches, tufted titmice, and woodpeckers) come for a visit and see their excitement at the treat they’ve found, especially the birds that overwinter. Did you know that migratory birds will remember your home the next time they’re passing through and will come back again year after year if you continue to provide nourishment for them? It’s like a reunion each spring and winter. Fun!
So, let’s grab some materials and get ready to create a DIY log bird feeder!
Materials:
(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)
a log (can be firewood) about 3-4″ diameter and 16″ long or as long as you like
We are blessed to have a fireplace, so we always have a stash of firewood on hand. For your log, you can use a downed branch or head to your own stash to grab a piece of wood.
The tree-clingers prefer a chunky bark, but any tree variety will do.
Instructions:
Clamp your log and keep your hand clear from the drill bit. Wear appropriate eye protection.
To start, use a 1″ spade bit to drill a hole approximately 1/2″ deep, 2 inches down from the top.
Drill a second hole on the same face about 6″ below the first.
Roll the log a quarter turn and drill in the next face starting with the first hole about 5″ from the top and then a second hole 6″ below that one. (This does not have to be exact and gives a more rustic feel when randomly chosen.)
Repeat those steps until you have two sets of matching faces on opposing sides.
Drill your rope hole using a 5/16″ bit. Starting on the face that has the first hole 5″ down, drill your rope hole 2″ from the top, making sure to go completely through the log.
Cut a 2′ or longer piece of rope and thread it into the hole. If you turn the rope in the direction of the braid (counter-clockwise) while inserting it, that will help the rope go through smoothly.
Once through, tie the rope ends together using a basic knot.
On to the fun part! Birds burn a ton of protein flitting about, so they need to store up as much as they can. We prefer to use chunky peanut butter and then roll it in seeds like this.
Grab a tablespoon of peanut butter and place it in a bowl of birdseed.
Then sprinkle the peanut butter with seed.
After coating with the seed, press the mixture into the holes using the back of a spoon, or if you’re nutty like me (catch the pun?) it’s more fun to use your fingers.
The kids love this part!
You’re done and it’s ready to hang. Yay!
For a fun twist, and if you’re feeling handy, you could also add dowels for other species to be able to roost at each hole, but for this project I kept it simple.
If you want professional-looking tile floors (regardless if you want to do it yourself or hire someone), you must read this article to find out what tiles to buy, how to avoid cracked tiles, and risk a finished tile floor that is less than professional-looking.
11 Must-See Tips for Professional Looking Tile Floors
I’m here to tell you, YES, you can lay your own floor tile and achieve professional-looking results if you learn a few tips and tricks. First, can I share a secret with you? Seven years ago I thought I had to hire a tile installer when we had our mudroom tiled. I wish I knew then what I know now because I would have kicked that installer out of my house immediately. I still have to look at some of the issues he left behind pointing to a less than professional looking tile job. (Insert Angry Face Emoji!)
But, I completely understand if you still want to hire a professional tile installer for any number of reasons:
No time
Don’t have the tools
Physical disabilities (tile-setting is tough on the back and body)
No desire to install tile
Did I miss any reasons? If I did, leave me a comment below letting me know why someone wouldn’t want to embark on a DIY tile flooring project.
Before we get to my tips, I want to give you a little education on tiles. Especially if you had problems previously and thought it was your fault the tile job didn’t look professional. Believe it or not, your issues may have been caused by cheap or poor quality tiles. Say what?!
How to Spot Poor Quality (Cheap) Tiles:
Did you know those tiles you are saving a boatload on may not be quality tiles? Did you even know there were inferior quality tiles? Yes, it’s true. A few years ago I hired a tile installer to help me tile some of the bathrooms in the Saving Etta project. (Yes, I could have done it myself, but I’d still be tiling if I did everything myself.) When I first met the installer, he asked me about the tiles I had purchased. I showed him the boxes and he opened several to inspect them. This is what he was looking for to determine if they were cheap tiles:
Color – Pull tiles from several boxes (if possible) and check to see that the color is consistent for one color tiles. (Obviously, if they are supposed to vary in color and pattern that’s okay.) Regardless, you should always pull tiles randomly from several boxes when laying tile.
Size – Pull random tiles from several boxes and stack them together. They should be identical. Poor quality tiles can vary up to 1/8″ in size. This will cause issues especially if you are using a small grout joint.
Printing – Many ceramic or porcelain tiles are printed to look like real stone today. Take a close look at the surface. Is the printing evident? Do you see small dots like a printed newspaper photo? If you can’t see them easily, the printing was well done.
Thickness – In addition to the overall dimension of the tiles, you should check the consistency of thickness.
Warping – Are your tiles perfectly flat or do they bend? See below for a picture of two 4″ x 12″ tiles that show some bowing in the center of the tiles.
(To eliminate accentuating this defect, you wouldn’t want to install these tiles with a 50% offset (shown below). Instead, a 25 or 33% would be a better staggered joint pattern.)
Wedging – Square and rectangular tiles should be cut square. Out of square tiles could would impact your tile job and show up especially in the grout joints.
Typically you can expect good quality from tiles that are labeled as Standard or First Grade. Second grade tiles will have more variations in appearance. Independent tile shops are the best place to purchase good quality tiles. They typically sell to designers and tile installers, but also sell to the general public. Granted, you will likely pay more. But, you know the old saying, you get what you pay for.
Picking Tiles:
Tiles are tiles, right? Wrong, there are many tiles that would not be suitable for a floor. And some tiles are not good for high traffic areas. Finally, some tiles are not a good fit for showers. How can you tell which tiles are best for use in specific areas?
Floor Tiles vs. Wall Tiles:
Floor tiles must be strong enough to handle walking on and an occasional dropped item. Did you know there’s a rating for tile strength? It’s called a PEI rating.
A PEI of 1 is ideal for walls. PEI of 2 is best for bathrooms and kitchens. And a PEI of 3 is appropriate for all residential applications. Meanwhile, PEIs of 4 and 5 are applicable for commercial and heavy commercial applications. When shopping for tiles, they may not have the PEI rating displayed, but there should be a notation if they are acceptable for floors and walls. If you don’t see a notation, ask a salesperson or check with the manufacturer.
How Slippery Are Your Tiles?
Floor tiles must meet certain criteria for COF or coefficient of friction (basically how slippery the tile is.) But, different areas need different COF values. Let’s talk strictly for residential purposes (because commercial and business sites are a whole other beast). Floor tiles in a bathroom with a shower or tub must meet a greater than .42 DCOF test. Tiles that score less than .42 would only be appropriate for areas that will be kept dry or walls.
Polished tiles tend to be more slippery. Tiles that have texture usually score better on the DCOF test, but depending on how textured, they can be harder to clean.
Are marble and natural stone tiles good for floors?
Oh the beauty of real marble! I know, I know, I love marble too, but would it be a good choice for your floor? This depends on several factors. The first being the use of the room. If using in a kitchen or room with a lot of traffic and opportunities for spills, you’ll want to steer clear of marble and stone products that can wear or stain easily. Of course, you can seal your tiles, but the upkeep will be a lot more than porcelain or ceramic tile. But, if you are okay with your floors showing off natural wear and patina, go for it.
Porcelain vs. Ceramic – What’s the Difference?
Porcelain tiles are stronger and more dense than ceramic tiles. They don’t absorb as much moisture as ceramic tiles (Porcelain tiles must be tested and absorb at 0.5% or less to be certified porcelain.) Because they absorb less, porcelain tiles are more ideal for shower floors or areas that stay damp or humid. While porcelain tiles will usually be stronger, thicker, and less porous, they can be tougher to cut and more expensive. Ultimately you can use ceramic tiles on your floor, as long as they meet a 3 or higher PEI rating (as discussed above).
How Many Tiles Should I Order?
Typically most tilers would suggest you order anywhere from 15% -20% extra for your job. If you are using small tiles, you can order as little as 10% overage. Usually, I order 15% because it’s better to have a few left over to keep on hand should you ever have to replace a tile. Besides, it’s a real pain if you run out of tiles mid tile job.
Know Your Finished Height:
If you are picking out tiles, be sure you know the difference in height of adjoining rooms. Choosing your floor tile can mean the difference between perfectly matched floor levels or the need for a transition strip (or worse, a step up or down!) Luckily there is a transition strip for most floor differences.
Tools:
(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)
I’m a big advocate of having good tools. Having a good tile cutter means the difference between flying through a tile job or having it drag on for an eternity. A good tile cutter also reduces waste because they cut tiles cleanly.
When possible, I prefer cutting the majority of tiles with a scoring tile cutter. It’s quicker, a lot less messy, and clean up is as simple as brushing off the platform.
Occasionally I’ve run into tile that resisted cutting on my scoring cutter (thick porcelain tiles usually fall into this category). For those tiles, I use my wet saw. A wet saw can also cut angled and corner cuts into the tiles. I’ve used the same inexpensive wet saw for years, but when it dies I’ll upgrade to a bigger wet saw.
Recently I started using an angle grinder with a diamond blade for more precise intricate cuts or to knock off a small amount. It works faster and is less clean up than the wet saw for those intricate cuts.
Finally, if you are tiling a shower, you’ll inevitably need to cut a hole in your tiles around a pipe. For that task, I use a drill with a diamond hole saw.
Now it’s time to learn my top tips for a professional-looking tile floor. If you are a newbie and want to learn the basics of tiling, you’ll find these two lessons helpful: Learn How to Set Tile
Okay, let’s learn how to get those professional tile results that will even fool the pros!
11 Must See Tips for Professional Looking Tile Floors:
Over the years I’ve taken several courses on tile setting and worked directly with several professional tile setters. From each experience, I’ve learned a lot and now I want to share the things I’ve learned with you so your next tile job comes out beautifully.
In my video you’ll get to see the progress at the Millie’s Remodel project as I tiled the kitchen floor. I decided to incorporate the tiling tips I’ve learned into the video for you.
Watch the video for the tips and how I install floor tiles:
You can also watch the video on YouTube if you prefer (especially if you want to click on the links to the other videos I mention).
1. Flat and Sturdy Subfloor:
Like building a sturdy house, your foundation is super important. When you walk on your floor does it flex, bounce, or squeak? If so, you need to solve these issues now. Use a level and rest it in several different areas (and directions on your subfloor). Are there low spots, high spots, or a slope? If you have dips or valleys in your subfloor, you can’t get a good tile job that will last. If your floor isn’t sturdy and flexes, you will have cracked grout, or worse cracked tiles.
If you have a wood subfloor, make sure your wood substrates have the manufacturer’s recommended spacing (typically 1/8″ gap between plywood sheets.) Backer board or uncoupling membranes should be laid onto the subfloor before tiling.
Never tile directly onto new concrete. In fact, keep reading to learn why I use uncoupling membranes and how to prevent your tile job from being ruined by expanding or contracting concrete.
After taking the Schluter workshops, I will never tile a room without an uncoupling membrane again. As a bonus, their membranes are waterproof. No more need to worry about water soaking into your subfloor and causing mold to build up.
3. Use a Good Tile Cutter
Using good tools will help your tile job go smoothly and it will keep your tile cuts from looking like a jagged mess. If you can’t afford to buy good tools, look into renting some, or ask a fellow DIYer if you can borrow theirs. (Always clean their tools before returning them. Nothing irks me more than dirty tools.)
4. Layout Tiles Ahead of Time
If you’ve heard that spending time doing the prep work will save you time in the long run, nothing could be more true than when tiling. Before I start any tile job, I always lay out my tiles first. I dry lay them out to see what I’m dealing with. First I layout a run of tiles along the length of the room and position the tiles to avoid having to cut a small sliver of a tile at either end. Then I layout a run along the width of the room making adjustments to avoid the same situation.
If I have printed tiles, I separate them into piles by their individual print design. Then when I pull tiles later I pull from different stacks. I also step back to make sure two of the same tiles aren’t next to each other (like in the example below thanks to that so-called professional I hired).
Nothing screams rookie tiler louder than two printed tiles being installed next to each other. And in the same orientation!
5. Leave an Expansion (or Movement) Joint
Despite what you might think (especially if you have perfectionist tendencies), you do not want to cut and install your tiles tight against the wall (or other objects in your room like columns, pipes, or walls.) You must leave at least 1/4 inch around the perimeter of your room or around immovable objects. Not adhering to this rule can lead to your tile floor popping up or tenting (See this article for a photo of tenting tile.) Additionally, you need to install a movement joint in any interior room at every 25 feet in each direction. However, if this room is exposed to direct sunlight or heat, you’ll need an expansion joint at every 12 feet in each direction.
6. Use Recommended Trowel Size
Tiles come in all shapes and sizes and therefore they require a variety of trowels. Be sure to check with the specifications on your tile to find out the trowel size. Or ask your tile shop representative for their recommendation. Using a too-small trowel with large tiles would cause the tiles not to adhere to the surface. And too big a trowel with smaller tiles will make it difficult to level the tiles.
7. Back Butter Large Tiles
When tiling a floor with large tiles, back buttering is a must. Typically I’ll spread the thinset mortar onto the floor and trowel through it. I’ll use the excess to scrape a thin layer over the back of the floor tile. This accomplishes two things:
It keys mortar into any voids on the back of the tile.
It ensures full coverage on the back of the tile.
If you don’t back butter large tile, you run the risk of having air pockets behind your tile which can sound hollow when walked on or cause the tile to pop up.
8. Use Leveling Spacers
Leveling spacers are a relatively new product, but I will never tile a floor without them again. I’ve tried several brands but prefer the wedge-shaped leveling spacers. The wedges are inserted into the tile spacer and ratcheted tight to bring tiles to the same height as the adjacent tiles. You can see how they work and how to remove the spacers in my video above. (It’s a lot of fun removing them as you’ll see!) Using leveling spacers virtually eliminates lippage on tiles.
9. Clean Thinset Off Tiles
Anyone who has had to clean dried thinset mortar off tiles will never make the mistake of letting it dry on tiles. When tiling, keep your area clean. Be sure to clean off any mortar on surrounding tiles. In addition, make sure to clean thinset that squeezes up between the tiles. You want to make sure you have enough room for grout to set on top of the mortar.
10. Use Grout with Sealant
Grouting is the final step for any tile job, but if you didn’t add a sealant additive to your grout, you will need to seal the grout after the fact. I don’t know about you, but the last thing I want to do after tiling a floor is hand paint sealant on all the grout lines. And if you skip sealing all together you’re going to hate keeping the grout clean.
11. Plan Your Transition Pieces Ahead of Time
One thing that will truly set your tile floor job a notch above is using sleek transitions. Personally, I prefer using Schluter profiles strips for my floor transitions. There are a variety of finishes, sizes, and styles. Some of the profile strips are laid under the tiles for a stronger bond. Others are installed after the grout has cured. In the Millie’s Remodel kitchen, we had a big change in height between floors. I ended up using the the Schluter Reno-V profile which has an L shaped piece that slides under the tile edge during installation. (You can see the way it works in my video.)
However, in the Saving Etta house, I used simple Schluter Schiene profile strips between tile and wood flooring.
How to Speed Up Your Tile Job:
It helps to have a helper when tiling. Once you mix thinset or grout, you’re on the clock. Both will harden within a set time. If you have a helper, you can give your helper the task of cutting tiles or changing out your dirty water buckets, or mixing more thinset mortar. Speaking of mortar, never mix more than you can spread before hardening. As an experienced tiler I try not to mix more than 1/3 of a 50 pound bag of mortar. Otherwise, you’ll be left with a big boulder of thin set when it hardens.
If you can’t get a helper, make sure to fill multiple buckets with clean water before you begin. It also helps to cut some of your perimeter tiles ahead of time.
Tip for Working with Grout: You can slow the curing time of your grout if you set your mixed grout into a second bucket filled with ice water to slow the curing process. I show this in more detail in my grouting tutorial.
Best of luck tiling your floor. I know you can do this.
https://prettyhandygirl.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/must-see-tips-for-professional-looking-tile-floors-feature.jpg4901109Brittany Baileyhttps://prettyhandygirl.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/PHG-logo-tagline-2020-1030x211-R.jpgBrittany Bailey2020-04-24 07:05:002020-06-05 12:44:4811 Must See Tips for Professional Looking Tile Floors
Happy Spring Everyone! What a difference a few weeks can make. Like many of you, I am grappling with the uncertainty of this challenging time. My children are now home with me every day, for the foreseeable future. In Seattle, life has completely changed. Almost everything is shut down, even playgrounds are closed at the moment. And so, I’ve been focused on creating little projects that my kids and I can do while stuck at home. Let’s talk about DIY Hummingbird Feeder.
I came across these DIY hummingbird feeders with jelly jars and was instantly inspired! I’ve had a hummingbird feeder on my Amazon wishlist for quite some time. I’m not sure why I never considered making my own instead. This turned out to be a very kid-friendly project and they even learned a little bit about hummingbirds.
The only issue was, I didn’t have jelly jars. So I improvised a bit and used these 1oz McCormick spice jars. I emptied out the contents and washed them out thoroughly. These little spice jars are the perfect size for those dainty hummingbirds.
Materials:
(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)
Sugar and Water – (to make the hummingbird food, recipe below!)
Instructions:
Follow these steps to make your own hummingbird feeder.
Step 1: Prepare your spice jars
Thoroughly wash your spice jars and lids with hot, soapy water. You don’t want any lingering spice odors or tastes that will turn off potential hummingbirds. I also removed the stickers from the jars with a little goo gone.
McCormick spice jars have a lid with holes in it, covered by a snap-top. All you need to do is rip off the snap-top section, we don’t need it. Hummingbirds will use their long beaks to drink the nectar from each hole.
Step 2: Make Hummingbird Nectar
The recipe for making Hummingbird nectar couldn’t be easier. It’s just sugar water – but you need to know the correct ratio. Too much sugar can be harmful to hummingbirds and too little sugar doesn’t provide enough calories for them.
I followed the recipe from the Audubon website. It’s ¼ cup of refined white sugar and 1 cup of boiling water. Mix until the sugar dissolves. Cool the mixture and then fill your spice jars to the top. Now, just replace the lid with holes in it.
Step 3: Attach Jute Twine for Hanging
I used some jute twine to create a little loop for hanging. Tie your knots tight and make sure the lid is secure.
Now just hang it up somewhere outside and wait for those hummingbirds!
We haven’t had a visitor yet that I could photograph, but I know those hummingbirds are on the way.
Hello! I’m Karen, the creator of the Home Decor and DIY Blog: Decor Hint. I’m a Native of the East Coast, but I currently live in beautiful Seattle with my hubby, our two wonderful children, and our spunky wheaten terrier.
You can usually find me with some sort of craft in one hand and a coffee in the other. And I’m always rearranging furniture or moving lamps from room to room. I have a passion (read: obsession) for decorating, DIY, and gardening. In short, I love making my house into a home.
Like many, I’m inspired by what I see in home decor magazines, but I’m not so inspired by the price tags. Consequently, I love finding and creating beautiful budget-friendly home decor items. In a head to head competition, I bet you’d never know the difference between the designer items and my DIY creations! Many of my DIY projects focus on sewing, crafting, upcycling and organizing. Some of my favorite projects have been making pretty wreaths, sewing my own tassel hand towels, and crafting these trendy wood bead garlands. I can’t wait to inspire you and spark your creativity through my DIY projects.
Does your tween or teen love to make things? Hands-on projects are a great way to help your kids stay creative, use problem-solving skills, and practice small motor skills. Read more to discover 30+ DIY Crafts Tweens Will Love!
30+ DIY Crafts Tweens Will Love
DIY crafts for tweens are a great way to allow them to make something while keeping them away from those never-ending screens. Teens and tweens can make creative items as gifts for their family and friends or just a fun item to keep for themselves. These crafts will boost their self-esteem and sense of accomplishment as they create things that didn’t exist before. Check out these awesome ideas for more than 30 DIY Crafts Tweens Will Love.
These colorful DIY paracord bracelets are a fun project for tweens of any gender to make.
Have your tween make these Glass Bead Magnets with their favorite characters or images to show off their personality.
If your tween is into animals, they might just love this DIY Log Bird Feeder and watching all the birds that will come to feast.
So many colors and options, have them customize their own DIY Tie Dye Shoes!
For back to school or just everyday fun, it’s easy for them to upgrade from boring pens and notebooks to Sparkly Office Supplies.
They may need some assistance to make this, but they will certainly love this DIY Headphone Stand.
Teach them a few woodworking skills (assist please!) to make this unique Retro Phone Speaker for their room.
I hope your tween or teen really loved these ideas and found inspiration on how they can create something awesome! Comment and let me know what you (or they) think! Which is your favorite?
Hi, I’m Sheri from Hazel + Gold Designs. Here are a few fun stats about me: I like love chocolate and peanut butter (together of course.) If you like stats, I have been crocheting for about 16 years, crafting for 20, and woodworking for about 4 years. I found a passion in making and being creative and began documenting my projects online at Hazel + Gold Designs.
When not working on projects, I enjoy spending time with my husband, four children, perfect dog, and ornery cat. You can find me on Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram and Twitter.
https://prettyhandygirl.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/30-crafts-for-tweens-feature.jpg376800Sherihttps://prettyhandygirl.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/PHG-logo-tagline-2020-1030x211-R.jpgSheri2020-04-20 07:00:402020-02-09 13:20:2330+ DIY Crafts Tweens Will Love
So, you love making DIY projects but want to expand your talents further than squares and rectangles. I’m going to show you how to make DIY Circle Cutting Jig for the Table Saw. Yes!! Your table saw.
DIY Circle Cutting Jig for the Table Saw
Hello!! It’s Kristen, from In Her Garage, back again to bring you a super exciting and simple tutorial!
Making circles with the table saw sounds counterintuitive, right? Table saws are supposed to just rip straight lines, but table saws are one of the most versatile tools in your shop and with just a few pieces of scrap wood, you’ll be cutting circles and making gorgeous side tables and decor pieces in no time at all!! Let’s get started making this DIY Circle Cutting Jig for the Table Saw!
Materials:
(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)
Please read through the instructions in their entirety before making this project.
Safety! Before starting, UNPLUG your table saw and completely retract the blade below the level of the table.
Instructions:
The 3/4”x 1/4” strip of wood will be used as a guide for the jig and will travel within the miter slot to the right of the table saw blade.
Standing at the table saw, place a few stacked pennies within the miter slot and lay the strip of wood over the pennies so it is just slightly above the level of the table.
Place a line CA glue on top of the strip of wood and place the plywood on top of it so that the plywood piece is covering the saw blade about ¼”.
Apply weight on top of the plywood and wait for the glue to adhere to both the miter guide strip and the back of the plywood.
While you are waiting for the glue to dry apply the 12” piece of scrap wood to the front edge of the plywood. Simply apply some wood glue between the two pieces and nail it down with 1 ¼” brad nails or screws. This will act as the handgrip for the jig.
By now the plywood and the miter gauge strip of wood have adhered together. Gently lift the plywood and turn it over.
Using 5/8” inch brad nails or screws secure the strip in place being careful not to split it.
Remove the pennies from the miter slot.
Use some fine-grit sandpaper to smooth out the edges of the miter guide strip to help the jig travel smoothly. Applying some paste wax to the bottom the plywood and miter guide strip will also help with smooth travel. (Not necessary, but will help with smooth movement.)
Flip the jig back over placing the guide strip in the miter slot.
Pull the jig back enough to raise the saw blade just above the level of the hand guide. Plug the saw in.
With the saw on push the jig forward to completely cut off the left side of the jig. This will make the jig perfectly in line with the blade and act as a zero-clearance for clean cuts.
Turn off the saw, lower the blade and unplug.
Circle Cutting Instructions:
Using your speed square draw a line in the middle of the jig perpendicular to the saw blade.
Now mark the radius measurement for the circle that you want to make on this line. For example, if you want to make a circle that is 10” in diameter measure to 5” with your speed square.
Tap a 1 ¼” nail into the mark.
Make a mark in the center of the square piece of wood that you’re wanting to cut into a circle. This is easily done by drawing two lines from each opposite corner. The intersection of these two lines in the center of the square.
Drill a small hole through this center point.
Place the 1 ¼” nail through the hole and into the hole on the jig and tap securely into place making sure that the square lies completely flat on the jig. Rotate the piece be sure it spins easily and securely.
Pull the jig back and raise the blade to just above the level of the square to be cut.
Plug the saw in. When operating a table saw always try to stand off to the right side and never directly in front of the blade.
Rotate the piece 45 degrees so a corner of the square overhangs the jig. Turn the saw on and push the jig forward to cut off the overhanging corner. Pull the jig back.
Rotate the piece 90 degrees and repeat until all corners have been cut off.
At this point, you can turn the saw off and wait until the blade comes to a full stop so you can remove the scrap pieces from near the blade. I typically do this for larger circles.
Now continue to rotate the piece, pushing and pulling the jig back and forth until all overhanging corners have been cut off.
Once the piece of wood looks like a very rough circle push the jig forward until the bottom of the piece is in contact with the blade and rotate until the bottom has been cut into a circle.
Push the jig forward slightly and rotate the piece again making a full circle. Repeat until the top of the piece has been cut into a circle.
Pull the jig back and turn the saw off.
Wait until the saw blade has come to a full stop before removing the jig, the circle, or any scrap pieces.
Pretty simple right?! After I made this jig I went on to cut 14 circles for a few tables I was building!!! It was so easy.
Now that you have a perfectly cut circle and a jig that you can use over and over what are you going to make?
Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom and, registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the pieces we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.
Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips and tricks.
Making something beautiful with your own two hands through a little preparation and determination is an amazing feeling. I hope to bring inspiration and know-how to those looking to tackle a big or small project.
I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on Pinterest, Instagram, and Facebook to see what I am working on right now.
If you liked this post and want more tips about working with table saws then you’ll love this post on Table Saw Safety Guidelines.
https://prettyhandygirl.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/turn-the-rought-circle.jpg10801920In Her Garagehttps://prettyhandygirl.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/PHG-logo-tagline-2020-1030x211-R.jpgIn Her Garage2020-04-15 07:00:302021-07-28 03:03:50DIY Circle Cutting Jig for the Table Saw
11 Must-See Tips for Professional Looking Tile Floors
