Build It Archives - Page 17 of 55

How to Make a Super Simple Bar Stool

Have you ever wanted a bar stool that is a specific height or stain color? I bet you thought you’d have to search all over town for just the right bar stool, right? Well today, I’m back again from Woodshop Diaries and I am excited to show you how to build this super simple DIY bar stool! Yes, you can do this. . . I’ll show you how!

I built this stool to go with my large craft desk when I remodeled my home office space and I’ve had lots of questions on how I made it. Unfortunately, at the time, I didn’t take any photos for a tutorial. But after so many questions, I decided to make another one just so I could show you how to make your own!

Ready to get started?

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Miter Saw
Drill
Measuring Tape
Wood Chisel
Hammer
Speed Square
Jig Saw
2 ½” wood screws
2″ wood screws
1 ¼” wood screws
Wood Glue
(2) 2″ x 2″x 8′ boards
(1) scrap piece of ¾” plywood (11″ square or larger) or 1″ x 1″2 board (for the seat)

Cut List:

(4) 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 24″ with 7 degree mitered ends parallel
(2) 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 7″ with 7 degree mitered ends NOT parallel
(2) 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 12 ¼” with 7 degree mitered ends NOT parallel
(1) 11″ diameter round seat

Step 1: Cut Pieces

Start out by cutting all your stool pieces using the cut list above. Miter all the 24″ legs at 7 degrees (parallel to each other.)

Then you will miter cut the 7″ and the 12 ¼” pieces NOT parallel to each other. (One edge of these pieces will be shorter than the other side as shown in the picture above.)

Step 2: Mark and Trim Notches

Grab the shorter pieces (they will become your braces.) Lay them out as shown below and use a speed square to measure and mark a center line and ¾” to each side of the center line. Next, mark ¾” down from the top and bottom edge to find the horizontal center as well. Make an X mark on the part you will be removing. You need to remove one “chunk” from the top on one piece and one “chunk” from the bottom on the other piece so they will fit together. Do this for both the short and the long brace pieces.

Using a jig saw, make several cuts both along the outside lines and between them. Make sure to only cut on the side where you marked your Xs, not all the way through the board.

Ignore the extra lines in the photo above. I accidentally marked 3/8″ on each side of the center instead of the ¾” I was supposed to. Whoops!

Use your hammer and chisel to knock out the “chunk” pieces. Do this for all four of 2×2 braces.

Make sure the braces fit together nicely. Chisel out anything that keeps them from fitting together. Once you get them to fit, put a little glue in the notches; fit the brace together; and add a 1 ¼” screw. Repeat for the second brace.

Step 3: Attach Legs To Center “X” Braces

Place your small “X” brace upside down (longest side up) on your work surface. Add glue to all the ends and place a leg on each one. Attach the legs with a 2 ½” wood screw.

Once all four legs are screwed into the small “X”, place the big “X” between the legs toward the bottom of the legs. Make sure the longest side of the “X” faces the bottom of the legs. Position the “X” so that it is about 1 ¾” from the bottom (or top since it is upside down) of each leg. Glue and screw in place just like with the small “X”.

Step 4: Add the Seat

Take a piece of scrap ¾” plywood or 1×12 (anything that is at least 11″ square or larger.) Cut out a circle about 11″ in diameter. You can find a large round object to trace the shape if you wish. Use a jig saw to cut out the circle. Place it upside down on your work surface and center your stool legs and brace on top. Use 2″ wood screws to attach through the small “X” as shown below.

Step 5: Finish the Stool

Putty the screw holes and sand. Paint or stain your stool as desired. I left my new stool natural but I stained the top of my office stool using Minwax Puritan Pine, and painted the bottom Sherwin Williams Naval. Then, I used some masking tape, and taped off my legs to spray with gold spray paint for a gold dipped look. Be careful if you try this that you have the top of your legs covered completely so you don’t overspray onto them!

And that’s it! You now have your own super simple customized bar stool!

What color would you make your bar stool?

~Read more of Shara’s Tutorials~

If you liked this tutorial, I know you’ll love:

October 25, 2017/5 Comments/by Shara M

Build It

Building a Striped Porch Swing using Pallet Wood

When I first laid eyes on the backyard of my investment house, I pictured a porch swing hanging from the giant tree in the back yard. That image never left my mind, and I knew I’d have to build a porch swing soon so I could enjoy sitting on the swing in between copious amounts of demolition labor. Being on a tight budget, I didn’t want to buy a new swing. I challenged myself to use as much free wood as I could get my hands on. Then Krazy Glue, who is sponsoring this post, threw on an additional challenge. They dared me to give up my conventional nail fasteners and use Krazy Glue to secure all the slats to the swing frame. Apparently Krazy Glue is one fast-drying glue that creates an instant bond when applied and can hold up to 2,000 pounds. Big claims meant I was anxious to put Krazy Glue to the test!

To start, I harvested the slats off of three pallets. (There are several ways to harvest pallet wood, a few of which I explain in this post.)

When all was said and done I had enough pallet wood to create all the slats on the swing. (And luckily I had a few scrap 2 x 4’s to build the swing frame, so my lumber costs were minimal.) I developed a plan to utilize and feature the varying widths of pallet wood, but used Ana White’s basic porch swing plan for inspiration and overall dimensions.

Ready to learn how to Build your own Striped Porch Swing using Pallet Wood? Let’s do this before the weather gets too cold to enjoy it.

Lumber:

5 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′
3 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ (or use salvaged pallet wood)
1 – 2″ x 2″ x 4′

Cut List:

3 – 2″ x 4″ x 4′
4 – 2″ x 4″ x 18″
1 – 2″ x 2″ x 45
4 – 2″ x 4″ x 19 ¾”
2 – 2″ x 4″ x 11 ¼”
2 – 2″ x 4″ x 22 ½”
2 – 1″ x 4″ x 21″ (if using pallet slats, use the widths you have, but cut to 21″ long)
10 – 1″ x 4″ x 22″ (if using pallet slats, use the widths you have, but cut to 22″ long)
4 – 1″ x 4″ x 48″ (if using pallet slats, use the widths you have, but cut to 48″ long)

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Miter saw
Krazy Glue (I used 7 bottles of Maximum Bond Krazy Glue)
Pencil
Speed Square
Tape Measure
Drill
1/16″ drill bit
3/8″ drill bit
2 ½” wood screws
3″ wood screws
Kreg Jig
2 ½” pocket hole screws
Level
Wood putty
Putty knife
Sander
Primer
Paint
Paint Brush
Painter’s Tape
Varnish
Clamps
2 – 3/8″ x 4″ eye bolts with 1 washer and 1 nut for each
2 – 3/8″ x 6″ eye bolts with 1 washer and 1 nut for each
Weather resistant rope (solid braid synthetic 3/16″ rope)
2 – 5/16″ Quick Link carabiners

Instructions:

After you have harvested your pallet wood and removed any nails. Cut your lumber to size using the cut list above.

Assemble the Seat Frame:

To assemble the seat frame, layout the 2×4’s as shown below. Turn the two middle boards on their sides.

Assemble the seat as shown.

Secure the seat frame by gluing each end of the 18″ boards with Krazy Glue. Then pre-drill and drive 3″ wood screws through the front and back 48″ boards into the 18″ sides and support boards. Use the carpenter’s square to keep your corners square.

You may find it easier to clamp the frame together while drilling and driving screws.

Center your 2″ x 2″ x 45″ board on top of the center supports in the seat frame.

Apply Krazy Glue to each end. Then pre-drill and secure the center support with one 2 ½” wood screw on each end.

Assemble the Back Support:

Layout the seat back assembly as shown below. Line up the 19 3/4″ boards with the two center supports on the seat frame assembly.

Drill two pocket holes into one end of each 2″ x 4″ x 19 ¾” board. Add Krazy Glue to the ends of the 19 ¾” boards. Drive 2 ½” pocket screws into the pocket holes to attach the upright supports to the 48″ board.

Lift the back assembly and clamp to the seat frame. Check that the back assembly lines up with each side of the seat. Then remove the clamp.

Squeeze Krazy Glue onto the inside edge of the upright supports. Clamp in place and pre-drill holes through the uprights into the seat frame. Then secure with 2 ½” wood screws.

Assembling the Porch Swing Arms:

Drill pocket holes into one end of each 2″ x 4″ x 22 ½” and the 2″ x 4″ x 11 ¼” boards. Apply Krazy Glue into the elbow joint where the arm pieces overlap each other.

To attach the arm rests, start by making sure the porch swing seat is level. Set the arm in place and level the arm rest. Clamp the arm rest to the frame and secure the arm rest to the back assembly using 2 ½” pocket screws.

Then pre-drill and secure the front of the arm rest to the seat frame with 2 ½” wood screws (taking care to avoid the screws holding the seat frame together.)

Now is the perfect time to fill all the holes with wood putty.

Allow the putty to dry and sand smooth.

Wipe off the porch swing with a damp rag to remove any sawdust.

You may choose to prime and paint your swing before adding the slats. If you are using Krazy Glue to adhere the slats, do not prime or paint the back of the slats or the frame pieces that will be glued. The Krazy Glue must bond with raw wood.

Adding Seat and Back Slats:

Cut your slats (or pallet wood) to the lengths in the cut list. Arrange the slats on the seat and back of your swing.

For ease of installation, I created a spacer with two shims. You’ll need to play with your slats to make sure they are evenly spaced. Ideally you’ll want about 1/2″ between slats.

Krazy Glue the Porch Swing Slats:

Time to put the Krazy Glue to the test! I made a quick video to show you how I used the Krazy Glue to adhere the slats and to test the strength of the bond:

Add a small bead of Krazy Glue to the seat frame assembly underneath each slat (or to the underside of the slats.)

Press the slat in place and hold for about 30 seconds. If the slat does not sit flat (if it rocks slightly) you may use a small nail to secure the slat.

Repeat with the remaining slats, being sure to space them evenly. Allow at least 10 minutes for the Krazy Glue to set before moving your swing.

To attach the hanging hardware, drill a 3/8″ hole through the outer upright supports of the back. Insert the 6″ screw eye through the hole, thread a washer and nut onto the end.

Repeat the process, drilling into the front edge of the side supports. You can see the location of the hanging hardware below:

Finish priming your porch swing.

Paint your porch swing any color you like. (The paint I used is Magnolia Home Interior Paint by Kilz: Shiplap, Texas Summer, Amber, Water Garden, and Magnolia Green.) It helps to cover the slats on either side of the one you are painting with painter’s tape (if you are using multiple colors).

Seal your porch swing with a varnish for added weather protection.

Hang your porch swing from a ceiling joist, large tree, or pergola.

Enjoy a beautiful new spot to sit and swing in your yard!

Notes: The Krazy Glue bond was super strong when the slat was flat against the frame. However, there were two slats that had some twist to them, so the bond could not form properly. Those two slats did receive nails for additional hold. My swing is exposed to the elements, but for best results hang your swing under protective cover. If the wood rots around the glued joints, there is the potential for the parts to separate.

Please pin this image to share it with the world, because everyone deserves a beautiful spot to sit!

Disclosure: This is a sponsored post for Krazy Glue. I was not told what to write. All opinions are my own. I was compensated for my time and efforts to create this tutorial. I am very particular about the brands I represent. Because I value your trust, you will always be notified when you are reading a sponsored post on PrettyHandyGirl.com.

If you liked this tutorial, you may also like:

DIY Indoor/Outdoor Bench for $25

Make This Bench from a Bed Frame

October 23, 2017/14 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

Build It, decor, Decorating

Build Your Own Trough Centerpiece

Green and purple hydrangeas in rustic wood trough. Build Your own Rustic Trough Centerpiece tutorial.

Build Your Own Wood Trough Centerpiece

Wood trough centerpieces are very popular right now and for good reason! They will work with any seasonal decor. Add grass and eggs and you have instant spring decor. Add sunflowers and you have just decorated your table for summer. Add pumpkins or dried hydrangeas for a pretty fall centerpiece. And for the holidays, tuck in pine boughs and pine cones.

But, if you’ve ever tried to buy a wood trough, you probably noticed the prices can be upwards of $50 or more. That’s hogwash! Let’s Build Your Own Trough Centerpiece for less than $10!

Materials:

1″ x 6″ x 6′ Pine board
1″ x 4″ x 3′ pine board
Hammer or Nailgun
1 ½” finish nails
Miter Saw
Wood glue
2 Clamps
Pencil

Cut list:

2 – 1″x 6″ x 32″
2 – 1″ x 6″ x 3 ½”
1 – 1″ x 4″ x 36″ (we will cut this to size during the tutorial.)

Instructions:

Cut your lumber to the dimensions above. Leave your 1″ x 4″ for now.

Set up the sides of your trough and one end around the base piece (1″ x 4″ x 36″).

Set the second end on top of the base and mark where to cut the base piece to fit inside the sides and ends of the trough. Cut the base to size.

You should now have two long sides, two ends, and a base.

Run a line of wood glue along the bottom of the sides and ends where it will meet the base.

Set the sides and end pieces around the base and clamp in place.

Nail the sides into the end pieces.

Nail the sides into the base piece.

Optional, use a planer or rough sandpaper to round the edges of your trough.

Sand the trough smooth.

Congratulations, your trough centerpiece build it complete! That wasn’t hard was it?

Leave your trough raw. Or stain and paint it to give it a rustic look by following my video tutorial below!

Add some flowers or seasonal decor and put your trough centerpiece on your table (or mantel or anywhere you want to display it.)

Do you like this trough centerpiece? What would you display in your’s?

I’ll be back later with a full tutorial on how I create the perfect aged and distressed look on my trough. See ya’ later alligator!

If you liked this tutorial, I know you’ll love this collection of 71 Practically Free Scrap Wood Projects!

Pin for later!

September 22, 2017/1 Comment/by Brittany Bailey

Build It, organizational tips

Cordless Drill Storage Center

Cordless Drill Storage Center

Keep your tools contained and extra batteries close at hand with this cordless drill storage center! It provides space for three drills, batteries and a charging station, so you can keep everything powered up and ready to go.

Hi there, Pretty Handy Girl readers! I’m Vineta from The Handyman’s Daughter, back with another tutorial for you! I have a series on my blog called Workshop Wednesday, where I share ways to make your workshop more organized and efficient. This month I’m bringing Workshop Wednesday over to Pretty Handy Girl with this Cordless Drill Storage Center!

I’ve found the best way to keep track of tools is to give each their own home. So far, I’ve built a circular saw stand and a sandpaper and sander storage unit, both of which have done wonders for my workshop’s organization.

Now it’s time to give my cordless drills and batteries a home of their own!

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Cut list:

To save money, I used a melamine shelf left over from a previous project. It wasn’t pretty, but workshop storage doesn’t need to be! The shelf was 9 ¼” wide, making it the perfect size for my drills. Feel free to substitute your own 3/4″ material.

1 – 9 ¼” x 17 ¾”
1 – 9 ¼” x 16 ¼”
2 – 9 ¼” x 12″
2 – 9 ¼” x 8″
Cut a piece of 1/4″ plywood to 17 ¾” x 12 ¾” for the back.

Instructions:

Before starting this project, I drew a quick sketch on the whiteboard wall in my workshop. This is handy to have as reference during the building process! The back of the box is taller than the front in my original plan, but that detail isn’t necessary.

Drill pocket holes along one 9 ¼” side of the 8″ and 12″ pieces.

Attach the two 12″ pieces to the ends of the 17 ¾” piece with pocket hole screws. The two 8″ pieces should be spaced about 5″ apart in between the two 12″ pieces.

Drill three pocket holes into each end of the 16 ¼” piece. Set this piece on top of the 8″ center pieces with the holes facing up and attach it to the sides with pocket hole screws.

At this point, your cordless drill storage box should look like this…

Add the 1/4″ plywood back with 1 ½” brad nails. (I used leftover whiteboard on mine.)

To accommodate my two battery chargers, I attached an extension cord with two outlets to the back of the box.

Now the Cordless Drill Storage Center is ready to be loaded up! Two drills and an impact driver each have their own slot.

The top holds two battery chargers and at least two extra batteries. Plenty of power for my next project!

Now I can easily grab the tool I need and get to work!

The Cordless Drill Storage Center fits perfectly next to my circular saw stand. Much better than a jumble of tools on the shelf!

Don’t forget to check out my other Workshop Wednesday posts over at The Handyman’s Daughter!

Until next time!

~ view more of Vineta’s projects ~

September 6, 2017/3 Comments/by Vineta Jackson

arts and craft, Build It, Crafts, decor, Popular, Stashbusting, Trash to Treasure, Upcycling

71 Practically FREE Scrap Wood Projects

If you make things out of wood you know almost every project leaves scrap wood. Why not use up those scraps by making some of these 71 Practically FREE Scrap Wood Projects?