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DIY Mobile Mudroom

Hello Pretty Handy Girl readers! I’m Sarah from The Created Home, and I’m thrilled to meet you. I love versatile designs that makes life a little easier. This mobile mudroom is sure to help keep your entryway more organized. It’s a simple storage solution that combines form and function. Best of all this is the perfect project for someone who rents or isn’t ready to take on a custom build.

How simple is it? Well, I have a secret. This DIY Mobile Mudroom is actually an upcycle project.

You can build this from scratch (that’s how I build 98% of my projects), but sometimes it just makes more sense to use existing furniture. You can create this mobile mudroom using an old dresser or buffet and a minimal amount of lumber. The savings in time and lumber will be well justified!

There will be some differences in structure depending on what you start with, but the basic idea will be the same. Be creative, have fun, and please ask if you have any questions!

Let’s get this party started and build a DIY Mobile Mudroom!

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

4′ x 8′ x 1/2″ plywood
v-groove planking
stain
paint
hat hooks
2 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ boards
Kreg jig
5/8″ brad nails
1 ¼” pocket hole screws
wood glue
brad nailer
circular saw
speed square

Instructions:

The first step is locating an old dresser or sideboard/buffet. I picked this one up from the Habitat Restore and have been using it for shop storage. Other sources for cast off furniture are Craigslist, side of the road, and family members (or is that just mine?!)

You’ll want a piece that has three basic sections like the dresser pictured below:

Deconstruction:

Remove the middle section by pulling out the drawers and cutting out the shelf supports.

Depending on the dresser construction, you may have all drawers on either side or cupboards. The deconstruction should be fairly straight forward. (This was an Ikea piece, so it came right apart and only required a hammer to take apart.) If it doesn’t come apart easily, grab a pry bar or saw and cut the center pieces out. Leave the bottom support intact to maintain the shape of your piece.

Assess the condition of the top. If it’s dirty or rough, go ahead and clean it and sand any rough spots now.

Creating a seat from the dresser top:

Mark the top where it intersects with the middle section walls using a speed square. Use a circular saw to follow these lines and cut the top middle piece out. (You can see the top has been cut and is now resting in the middle in the photo below.) The middle piece should sit approximately 18″ off the ground for seat height.

DIY Mobile Mudroom Tutorial

Use scrap wood supports on either side to help you set the piece. Attach the middle section to the sides of the main body using pocket holes and screws. (New to using pocket holes? Follow Brittany’s tutorial on How to Use a Kreg Jig.)

Build the back board:

To create the back section, cut out a piece of 1/2″ plywood the width of your overall dresser. The exact height is up to you, though I found 42″ works well. Allow the plywood to overlap the dresser back by at least 6 inches. This gives you enough to attach to the mudroom base. You can use 3/4″ plywood here for more stability, but it will be heavier, and I’d recommend taking the plywood to the floor in that situation. Attach the plywood to the dresser using screws or bolts. Use at least two fasteners on each side, plus another two in the middle section.

Frame in the holes:

Use the leftover plywood to frame in under and behind the seat (shown below in red.) Attach with screws. You may need to run the plywood behind the seat a bit wider depending on how the back of your dresser is built. Just make sure there are supports for the screws to attach to.

DIY Mobile Mudroom Tutorial

Use the 1″ x 4″ boards to frame the back piece of plywood. Here’s a look at the framed plywood near its finished state:

Step 4: Add the shiplap (v-groove)

The v-groove planking is where the real magic happens. You can pick planking up at Lowes or Home Depot in economy packs. Typically they cost $10 per pack of six. Clad the plywood back with the v-groove planks using glue and brad nails to secure. Leave an inch or two of the bottom back unclad. (Shown in red below.)

Overlapping Back Mobile Mudroom

Create an overlapping v-groove piece that extends the same distance above the bench back (shown in blue above.) Then secure the plywood to the overlapping v-groove with screws.This will allow you to remove the back of your mobile mudroom. When assembled, the entire mudroom is difficult to get through doorways and around corners. This step allows you to take the back off to move.

If your dresser has inset side panels go ahead and add v-groove planking to the sides for a more cohesive look.

That’s it for the structure of the mudroom! All that’s left to do is the cosmetic work.

Fill the holes and finishing:

Because this is a repurposed piece, you will have holes leftover from the previous structure. Use wood filler to eliminate those spots and give a smooth finish. I prefer Bondo if you are painting your mobile mudroom. If you are staining it, use a stainable wood filler.

Of course you can finish your mobile mudroom any way you like. To achieve the aged and distressed look, stain the wood, then paint. After the paint dries, sand back some of the paint at edges and give it a distressed look that continues to look great even after being used and abused.

For a seamless finish, caulk any seams. If you are planning to remove the back, don’t caulk where the top plywood back meets the bench seat back. I did add a little caulk to where the v-groove meets the edges to make it look perfect. (My secret is out!)

Add a cute little pillow on your bench to invite little ones to sit down.

Add hooks to the back, making sure to attach them high enough for coats scarves and hats.

The spot below the bench is perfect for more storage if you add a basket.

You’ll find plenty of storage in the drawers, cabinets or shelves in your mobile mudroom. Close the doors or drawers to keep your mudroom looking nice and clean.

The sky is the limit with how you want to customize your own mobile mudroom. Replace the feet with something you like better, change up the back to give it any look you like. If you move, you can take your mobile mudroom with you! I’ll leave you with a shot of the mudroom in action. If you build one of your own I would love to see it!

DIY Mobile Mudroom Tutorial

Like this mobile mudroom? You might also like Brittany’s shoe storage bench made from kitchen cabinets:

Happy building!

August 16, 2017/1 Comment/by Sarah Home

Build It

How to Build a Chunky X Farmhouse Table

There’s something about 4×4 lumber that makes furniture look amazing. Maybe it’s the sturdiness, maybe it’s the shape. Whatever it is, I love it! A friend of mine recently asked me to build her a new dining table, and I was happy to oblige. She liked the X-Base Pedestal table I built my sister, but wanted a rectangular shape with a heftier top. So I edited the plans a bit to make two straight bases with a stretcher, and used some posts around planked 1×12’s for a beautiful, solid table. It’s certainly heavy enough to last a lifetime! In this post we are gonna learn How to Build a Chunky X Farmhouse Table.

Recently Jeff shared his farmhouse table he built using these plans. I love how it turned out. I especially love the black stained legs and he used a simple top of tongue and groove boards without a border. This is a great example of altering plans to make them your own.

A few notes about my build: The base uses the same measurements from Ana’s plan. I decided to use 2×6’s for the top and bottom to make it even more sturdy looking.

Another nice change this time was splurging on pretty hardware. I used 5″ lag screws instead of screws, and it really does lend the table a professional feel.

The top was quick and easy to put together. I just have three 1×12’s planked together with kreg pocket holes, and used the same pocket holes to attach the posts. Then a few more carriage bolts on the sides help keep the posts together.

This is such a gorgeous set, and may be one I have to re-create for my own dining room! I was happy to build for a friend, and love that it will have a good life in its new home.

You may want to construct the table top and the legs, then move the table into place before connecting the legs to the top. This table will be large and heavy.

Now, let’s get busy building your Chunky X Farmhouse table!

Materials you’ll need to build your own Chunky X Base Table:

Please note, using nominal US lumber (i.e. 2×6’s = actual 1.5″ x 5.5″), the finished size of this table should be 41 1/2″ wide x 80″ long x 28″ tall.

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Lumber:

3 – 2x6x8′
5 – 4x4x8′
3 – 1x12x8′
2 – 1x3x8′

Hardware:

44 – 1/4″ x 5″ lag screws
Box of 1 ¼” pocket screws
Box of 2½” wood screws (to assemble bases)
Wood glue

Tools:

Cut List:

4 – 2×6 @ 30″ cut at a 30 degree angle (top and bottom of table leg bases)
2 – 2×6 @ 30″ cut at normal 90 degrees (spacers for on top of table leg bases)
4 – 2×6 @ 6″ cut at a 45 degree angle (feet)
8 – 4×4 @ 13″ cut at a 45 degree angle (cross bracing for the X shape)
2 – 4×4 @ 21 ¼” (center upright support of the table legs)
3 – 1×12 @73″ (table top)
3 – 1×3 @ 34 ½″(cut this after your 1×12’s are attached to be sure of measurement as 1×12’s can be 11 ¼” to 11 ½”)
2 – 4×4 @ 80″ (long border pieces for table top)
2 – 4×4 @ 34 ½″ (cut this after your 1×12’s are attached to be sure of measurement)
1 – 4×4 @ 61″ (stretcher to connect table legs. Cut after legs and table top are built later in instructions).

Instructions:

Important Note: I highly recommend pre-drilling all holes before driving lag bolts or screws. Choose drill bits that are slightly smaller than your screws and lag bolts. This will prevent the wood from splitting.

Table-Top:

Lay the 1×12’s on a flat surface.

Connect three 1” x 12” x 73” with several pocket screws (adding wood glue at the joints) as roughly shown below.

Add additional pocket screws along the perimeter of this table top surface for connecting to the 4×4 border lumber.

Cut two 4×4’s to the same width as your 1×12’s now that they are joined. The measurement should be close to 34 ½”. Cut your three 1×3 cross pieces to the same width.

Drive two lag screws through the corners of the 4″ x 4″ x 80″ lumber into the two 4x4s you just cut. Then secure the three 1×3 cross pieces (using wood glue and/or the 1 ¼” screws) you just cut to the underside of the 1″ x 12″ boards. Space them evenly for the best support, but leave space on the outer edges of your table top for connecting the legs later.

Legs:

Use four 2 ½” wood screws driven through the 2″ x 6″ x 30″ top and bottom pieces to connect to the 4″ x 4″ x 21 ¼” upright support.

Attach the 4″ x 4″ x 13″ angled pieces to the top and bottom 2″ x 6″s and the upright supports using lag screws (two into the top and bottom of each 4″ x 4″ angled into the 2″ x 6″ pieces.)

Attach the 2″ x 6″ x 6″ feet to the bottom of the table legs with four 2 ½” wood screws on each foot.

Repeat for the other table legs. Your table legs should look like this:

Attaching Table-Top to Legs:

Use 2 ½” wood screws to attach the 2×6 @ 30″ spacers to the underside of the table top where the legs will eventually attach. (This will elevate the table top so you can see all of the table leg as shown when the table top is secured.)

Measure the inside dimension of the table top from one spacer to the other. Cut the last 4×4 to this length (should be approximately 62″.) Attach the two table legs to the 4″ x 4″ x 62″ stretcher and two lag bolts through each leg and into the stretcher as shown below.

Add the table top and secure the legs to the spacers with 2 ½” wood screws through each leg top into the spacer.

And your table is built!

Wrap-Up:

To build benches for your table, you can follow Shanty 2 Chic’s X farmhouse benches which are the same style.

I hope you liked this tutorial for How to Build a Chunky X Farmhouse Table. Be sure to have a helper on hand to help you move this beast! It is definitely made rock solid.

~ Read more of Brooke’s Tutorials ~

If you liked this tutorial, you’ll love the instructions to build your own farmhouse table.

Or How to Build an Indoor/Outdoor Modern Bench:

August 14, 2017/97 Comments/by Brooke KillerB

Build It

Easy DIY Footrest using Scrap Wood

Hi, everyone! Anika back again from Anika’s DIY Life. In case you haven’t noticed, I love making easy and quick projects. It’s a bonus when the project helps me use up scrap wood from my ever multiplying pile. Recently, I built myself a new desk. The height of the desk and chair left my feet not quite reaching the floor. Previously, I was using a piece of scrap 2 x 2 to keep my foot on (notice the pattern with me and scrap wood)? It was high time I made an easy DIY footrest using scrap wood! Footrests are also great to relieve pressure from your legs.

The important thing about an ergonomic footrest is that it should be angled and the whole foot should rest on it. Footrests available in the market generally have a variable angle between 10° to 20°. Mine isn’t going to be variable so I settled on a 15° angle. If you are making this, I would urge you to think and try out what angle is best for you.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

¾” plywood or 1″ x 12″ board – at least 12″ long
1″ x 3″ boards – Total 4 cut at 12″ long
Jig saw
Miter Saw
1¼” finish nails
Hammer or brad nailer
Wood Glue
Paint/stain of your choice

Instructions:

Measure and draw lines for the side supports per the picture below. (The tall side should be 6 inches and the short side will be 2 inches.)

Cut the side support shapes out with a jig saw.

Attach a 1″ x 3″ slat starting at the bottom of the side supports using wood glue and finish nails.

Attach remaining slats using a ¾” scrap piece for spacing.

The footrest is ready! Paint or stain in the color of your choice.

I decided to whitewash my footrest to coordinate with my DIY desk.

How simple was that Easy DIY Footrest using Scrap Wood?

Don’t you just love quick projects that are functional? Let’s not forget . . . it was free! If you are looking for more easy projects, you will love my collection of scrap wood projects.

Want another posture perfecting tutorial? Learn how to make your own back pillow!

Until next time!

~ Read More of Anika’s Tutorials ~

August 9, 2017/6 Comments/by Anika Gandhi

Build It, DIY, Furniture

DIY Side Table Plans

DIY Side Table Plans

This little end table is a perfect fit for tight spaces or it would make a great plant stand! My sister asked me to make her a simple side table to sit between her chairs on the front porch, so here I am with the DIY Side Table Plans for you.

Hey guys, it’s Shara again from Woodshop Diaries! I’ve been working on several larger projects and decided to switch things up a little and work on some fun smaller builds like this cute little side table! The railings on the side make this somewhat of a “mission style” piece of furniture, which I’m quickly becoming a fan of. But the style is so simple that it would fit in with just about any décor—modern, farmhouse, traditional.

If you’re ready to get building this cute little DIY side table, here’s what you’ll need:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Tools:

Miter saw
Jig saw
Kreg Jig for pocket holes
Drill
Nail gun (or hammer and nails)
Clamps
Tape Measure

Materials:

(1) 2”x 2”x 8’ board
(2) 1”x 2”x 8’ board
(1) 1”x 6”x 8’ board
(1) 1’x 4’ x 8’ board
1 ¼” pocket hole screws
1 ¼” and 2 ½” wood screws
Wood Glue

Cut List:

(4) 1 ½”x 1 ½” x 19” (table legs)
(8) ¾” x 1 ½”x 11 ½” (top and bottom supports)
(3) ¾”x 5 ½”x 16 ½” (table top)
(1) ¾”x 3 ½”x 14 ½” (part of bottom shelf)
(2) ¾”x 5 ½”x 14 ½” (other part of bottom shelf)
(4) ¾”x 1 ½”x 12” (side rails)

DIY Side Table Plans Instructions:

Step 1: Cut legs and supports

Cut four 2”x 2” pieces for table legs according to the cut list above. Then, cut eight 1”x 2” pieces according to the cut list for the top and bottom supports.

Step 2: Assemble the frame

Drill a ¾” pocket hole into each end of all 8 support pieces. Make a mark on the legs 3” from the bottom. Attach the supports as shown below (line up the bottom edge of the bottom support with the 3” mark.)

Once you have two frames assembled as shown above, attach two supports between the two frames at the bottom (as shown below.) You can go ahead and attach the other two at the top, but I found it easier to do this after the bottom shelf is in place.

Step 3: Add bottom shelf

The bottom shelf is composed of two 1”x6” boards and one 1”x4” board. Cut the shelf pieces according to the cut list and glue them together using wood glue.

Once the glue has dried, use a jig saw to notch out 1 ½” squares into all four corners.

Slide the shelf in place and use a nail gun to secure the shelf to the bottom supports.

Step 4: Add side rails

Cut four 1”x 2” side rails according to the cut list. If you haven’t already attached the last two top supports from step 2, go ahead and attach these using 1 ¼” pocket hole screws. Place the 1”x 2” side rails in place (two rails on two opposite sides) spacing evenly. (I found 2 7/8” space between the rails provides even spacing.) Clamp rails in place while you screw them in.

Drill pilot holes through the top supports and screw in 2 ½” screws to hold the rails in place at the top.

Then, drill pilot holes at an angle through the bottom and screw in 1 ¼” screws to hold the rails in place at the bottom.

Step 5: Attach the top

Cut three 1”x6” boards for the top according to the cut list. Just like the bottom shelf, glue the boards together.

Once the glue has dried, line the top of the table base with glue and clamp the top on.

Finishing Your DIY Side Table:

Sand it down and putty holes. Paint, stain or finish as desired. I stained the table with Rustoleum Weathered Gray.

I love the simple style of this table. What do you guys think? Do you think you could use these DIY plans to build your own side table?

For another simple, but stylish end table, check out my twisty table!

Until next time, happy building 🙂

Like this side table? You may also like this copper pipe and wood half round table:

July 26, 2017/10 Comments/by Shara M

Build It, cleaning, DIY, Do It Yourself, organizational tips

DIY Scrap Wood Caddy

Hey everyone!! It’s Shara here again from Woodshop Diaries to bring you a simple, versatile, and really fun project. It’s a scrap wood caddy!

I hesitate to put a label on what type of caddy it could be because you can carry whatever you want inside. Cleaning supplies, tools, craft knick knacks, gardening accessories — the possibilities are endless!

The size is easy to customize and you only need a few tools and some scrap plywood. If you don’t have any scraps, pick up a quarter sheet of 3/4” or 1/2” plywood at the lumber yard or big box store to make this.

If you’re ready to get building, here’s the plan:

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Miter saw
Jig saw
Tape measure
Drill
Hammer and nails or nail gun
Scrap ¾” or ½” plywood (or ¼ sheet if you don’t have scraps)
Glue
Nails
Sandpaper

Cut List:

(Keep in mind: you can customize for different size scraps or for a larger or smaller caddy)

(2) pieces 3/4” x 8” x 19” (front and back)
(1) piece 3/4” x 8” x 17 ½” (bottom)
(2) pieces 3/4” x 8” x 8” (sides)
(1) piece 3/4” x 8” x 12” (middle divider w/ handle cutout)
(2) pieces 3/4” x 8” x 6 ½” (middle dividers)

Instructions:

Step 1: Cut out middle divider with handle

Cut your scraps to 8” wide to make the build easier. (If you don’t like 8”, you could make it another size, but the cut list will change slightly.)

Take a piece of 8” wide x 12” tall and mark the center. Measure and mark 2” to each side of the center and 5” down. Draw diagonal lines to connect the marks as shown:

Use a miter saw to cut the diagonal corners off.

Draw a handle hole. To make this an easy task, drill two holes first (using a drill bit or hole saw) to get the blade in.

Then cut along your line.

Sand your edges smooth.

Step 2: Cut out the front and back sides

Cut two pieces of your plywood to 8” x 19”. Find the center of one of the pieces lengthwise. Flip the middle divider from step 1 upside down and center it on the 8″ x 19″ plywood. The top of the divider should line up 3” from the bottom of the plywood. Trace the diagonal cut out onto the plywood and cut out using a jig saw. Trace the same shape onto the second 8″ x 19″ plywood piece and cut out to match.

Step 3: Assemble the bottom

Cut the bottom piece* (8” x 17 ½”) and 2 side pieces (8” x 8”).

*If you are using 1/2” scrap plywood instead, be sure to add an extra 1/2” to the length of your bottom piece.

Glue and nail the pieces together as shown below. You can use hammer and nails, but a nail gun would be ideal to save time and prevent pieces from moving while you assemble.

Step 4: Attach sides

Glue and nail the front and back pieces from step 2 to the sides and bottom from step 3.

Step 5: Assemble the middle dividers

Cut the 2 middle dividers from the cut list (8” x 12”). Measure and mark the vertical centers of the divider pieces. Make sure that the piece with the handle is centered on the middle dividers. This will make your inside “compartments” the same size.

Glue and nail these pieces to the handle cut out piece from step 1.

Step 6: Add dividers

Slide the dividers into the box you made in step 4 and make sure to center it. Nail the dividers in place through the front and back of the caddy. You can add a couple nails in the bottom as well, just be careful that you don’t miss and have stray nails coming up through the bottom of your caddy.

Give your caddy a good sanding and it’s good to go. You can add paint or stain, but I left mine natural.

This caddy could be used for cleaning supplies. . .

. . . craft supplies. . .

. . . tools or any small things you want to organize.

Don’t you love a good scrap wood project? Me too! For more fun scrap wood projects, check out this DIY personalized lazy Susan made from 2x scrap boards, or this floating mirror shelf made from a scrap 2×4.

You may also like these simple scrap wood caddies: