Furniture Archives - Page 3 of 15

Aged, arts and craft, Before and After, decor, DIY, Furniture, Goodwill, painting, Painting & Antiquing Techniques, spray paint, Spray paint metal, thrifting, Upcycling

How to Create a Faux Zinc Texture (with Spray Paint)

Want to give something the look of zinc metal without spending money on zinc metal? You can create the look with spray paint and this technique.

How to Create a Faux Zinc Texture (with Spray Paint)

A while ago I was thrifting with a few friends and stumbled across an ugly cabinet at our local Goodwill. The metal chest had extra wide and deep storage, but the worst colors imaginable! The hot pink and mint green were disguising the true potential of the chest. Like a color-blind dog, I was able to see beyond its garish appearance. In my mind, I pictured a vintage metal cabinet with a faux zinc side and chalkboard drawer fronts.

I scooped it up and brought it home. Then the poor chest sat in our garage for months and months until I had a chance to work a little spray paint magic and turned it into….this thing of beauty:

Yes, that is the same chest of drawers! You could do the same transformation. Let’s learn How to Create a Faux Zinc Texture!

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Gray Automotive primer
Rust-oleum metallic hammered metal spray paint (silver)
Craft paper
Painter’s Tape
Rubber gloves
White chalk

Instructions:

Clean off your furniture piece really well. Remove any dirt or debris (I actually had to use a little Goo Gone to get rid of some sticky residue. But, lemon essential oil will also work for this task.)

Spray paint your object with automotive primer. (I prefer the automotive primer because it sticks to metal and can withstand a lot of abuse.)

Let the primer dry.

Adding a Faux Zinc Texture:

This is the most exciting part of the tutorial. I created this technique by trial and error and I’m excited by how well this method works for creating a faux zinc texture.

Getting a faux zinc texture is really easy. Just have some gloves on and use a crumpled up piece of craft paper. (A loose crumple works best.)

Spray paint your object with a thick coat of the hammered silver spray paint, (but not so thick that it runs). Let the paint get tacky by waiting a few seconds.

Then use the crumpled piece of craft paper to blot into the wet paint.

Work in small 1 foot sections and pounce the paper a few times. (Too much pouncing and you’ll lose the large textured pattern.)

Let the paint dry thoroughly. Then enjoy your beautiful faux zinc paint job!

Chalkboard Painted Metal Drawers:

For my cabinet, I chose to paint the drawer fronts with chalkboard paint for a nice contrast.

Remove the drawers from the chest. Tape over the drawer glides and slides. Mask off the drawer sides and insides by covering the drawers with tape and craft paper, leaving only the drawer fronts exposed.

Spray paint the drawers with chalkboard paint. (Use three fine coats of paint instead of one or two heavy coats.) Set them aside to dry.

Insert the chalkboard drawers back into the cabinet frame.

Add chalkboard art to your drawer fronts.

The thrifted cabinet has a wonderful texture now and the black and zinc colors work with any color scheme.

The chalkboard drawer fronts allow the flexibility for me to store and label other items inside.

I’m so thrilled with the results! I hope you try to transform your own object, now that you know how to Create a Faux Zinc Texture.

If you use this tutorial, I’d love to hear about it. Better yet, will you send me a picture?

Share this with a friend! Pin this image:

October 14, 2019/8 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

Build It, Furniture

How to Make a Super Simple Bar Stool

Have you ever wanted a bar stool that is a specific height or stain color? I bet you thought you’d have to search all over town for just the right bar stool, right? Well today, I’m back again from Woodshop Diaries and I am excited to show you how to build this super simple DIY bar stool! Yes, you can do this. . . I’ll show you how!

I built this stool to go with my large craft desk when I remodeled my home office space and I’ve had lots of questions on how I made it. Unfortunately, at the time, I didn’t take any photos for a tutorial. But after so many questions, I decided to make another one just so I could show you how to make your own!

Ready to get started?

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Miter Saw
Drill
Measuring Tape
Wood Chisel
Hammer
Speed Square
Jig Saw
2 ½” wood screws
2″ wood screws
1 ¼” wood screws
Wood Glue
(2) 2″ x 2″x 8′ boards
(1) scrap piece of ¾” plywood (11″ square or larger) or 1″ x 1″2 board (for the seat)

Cut List:

(4) 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 24″ with 7 degree mitered ends parallel
(2) 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 7″ with 7 degree mitered ends NOT parallel
(2) 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 12 ¼” with 7 degree mitered ends NOT parallel
(1) 11″ diameter round seat

Step 1: Cut Pieces

Start out by cutting all your stool pieces using the cut list above. Miter all the 24″ legs at 7 degrees (parallel to each other.)

Then you will miter cut the 7″ and the 12 ¼” pieces NOT parallel to each other. (One edge of these pieces will be shorter than the other side as shown in the picture above.)

Step 2: Mark and Trim Notches

Grab the shorter pieces (they will become your braces.) Lay them out as shown below and use a speed square to measure and mark a center line and ¾” to each side of the center line. Next, mark ¾” down from the top and bottom edge to find the horizontal center as well. Make an X mark on the part you will be removing. You need to remove one “chunk” from the top on one piece and one “chunk” from the bottom on the other piece so they will fit together. Do this for both the short and the long brace pieces.

Using a jig saw, make several cuts both along the outside lines and between them. Make sure to only cut on the side where you marked your Xs, not all the way through the board.

Ignore the extra lines in the photo above. I accidentally marked 3/8″ on each side of the center instead of the ¾” I was supposed to. Whoops!

Use your hammer and chisel to knock out the “chunk” pieces. Do this for all four of 2×2 braces.

Make sure the braces fit together nicely. Chisel out anything that keeps them from fitting together. Once you get them to fit, put a little glue in the notches; fit the brace together; and add a 1 ¼” screw. Repeat for the second brace.

Step 3: Attach Legs To Center “X” Braces

Place your small “X” brace upside down (longest side up) on your work surface. Add glue to all the ends and place a leg on each one. Attach the legs with a 2 ½” wood screw.

Once all four legs are screwed into the small “X”, place the big “X” between the legs toward the bottom of the legs. Make sure the longest side of the “X” faces the bottom of the legs. Position the “X” so that it is about 1 ¾” from the bottom (or top since it is upside down) of each leg. Glue and screw in place just like with the small “X”.

Step 4: Add the Seat

Take a piece of scrap ¾” plywood or 1×12 (anything that is at least 11″ square or larger.) Cut out a circle about 11″ in diameter. You can find a large round object to trace the shape if you wish. Use a jig saw to cut out the circle. Place it upside down on your work surface and center your stool legs and brace on top. Use 2″ wood screws to attach through the small “X” as shown below.

Step 5: Finish the Stool

Putty the screw holes and sand. Paint or stain your stool as desired. I left my new stool natural but I stained the top of my office stool using Minwax Puritan Pine, and painted the bottom Sherwin Williams Naval. Then, I used some masking tape, and taped off my legs to spray with gold spray paint for a gold dipped look. Be careful if you try this that you have the top of your legs covered completely so you don’t overspray onto them!

And that’s it! You now have your own super simple customized bar stool!

What color would you make your bar stool?

~Read more of Shara’s Tutorials~

If you liked this tutorial, I know you’ll love:

October 25, 2017/5 Comments/by Shara M

Aged, antiques, arts and craft, Decorating, distressing, faux finish, Furniture, Painting & Antiquing Techniques

The Best DIY Aging and Antiquing Techniques

Aging and Antiquing Finishes Roundup Social Media Image

Aging and Antiquing Technique Tutorials:

Do you love the idyllic vintage or rustic look? If your answer is yes, then this round up is for you! I’ve curated some awesome projects with full details for aging and antiquing techniques that every DIYer should know. Check them out!

This Rustic Wine Crate with Rope Handles looks great after a little staining and distressing.

Consider Painting a Brick Fireplace to Beautiful Brownstone rather than tearing out the brick you hate.

Learn many of the best techniques for Antiquing and Aging Furniture here.

Check out how you can update your home just by Repainting Dated Decor.

Learn my go to products and tips for achieving the Perfect Rustic Paint Technique.

Learn how to antique beautiful furniture using Asphaltum Glaze.

Check out this White-washed Window Box and see how to get this finish on your next project.

Refinish your furniture in no time using the help of a spray gun used here for Painting an Antique Washstand.

Find out how to get creative and make An Aged Painted Pail using something you can find in the school classroom.

This Shabby Chic Dresser is gorgeous, check out how Holly (a professional refinisher) achieves this finish.

Learn how to make new wood look old, weathered and rustic.

Learning how to Faux Zinc will open so many doors for you! Be creative!

Learn how to get a distressed finish with this Distressed Picket Fence Planter Basket tutorial.

This Chalk Painted, Stenciled and Distressed Dumpster Table gives you all the details on how to make an amazing table like this one!

This Rustic Red Pie Safe painted with Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint is a great way to learn about using milk paint.

Don’t buy new, learn how she refinished old hardware to get these Rubbed Bronzing Cabinet Knobs.

A slightly different finish can make any item a statement piece, like this White-Washed Patriotic Flag Sign.

The gorgeous technique on this Painted Distressed Wood Panel could be used for a huge variety of projects.

See how they got this Rustic Wood King Headboard finish. Hint: it involves chains!

Change up your metal bins with some paint, like this Galvanized Tub Storage.

These Vintage Painted Oars have an amazingly realistic finish and look so great! You’ll never guess what they used to be!

Learn how to Create Faux Finished Weathered Wood Grain. Yup, that’s not real wood grain and it looks amazing!

Learn how to Age Galvanized Metal Quickly, sometimes aging just gives extra charm.

Check out how to accomplish this Unique Wine Rack Paint Finish, you’ll be glad you did.

With a little chalk paint and sand paper, you can make a gorgeous old sign from a footboard.

Find out how to Build Giant Vintage Chalkboard and finish it off tonight.

This Faux Copper and Patina finish is stunning, learn how to make it happen on any surface!

Get the Gray Restoration Hardware Stain Recipe. It’s so easy to get the same finish as that coveted store.

Learn how to Paint a Giant Mandala Deck Tattoo and turn something ordinary into something elegant.

Here are some tips and tricks (you don’t want to miss) for Aging and Antiquing Furniture Legs.

This Faux Aged Metal Pulley is just awesome. Find out how it was done.

Learn the technique for this Chalk Painted Wooden Stool, it will be handy for sure!

Make something amazing with this technique, like a Vintage Rustic Sleigh Ride Sign.

Thanks for stopping by. Do you have any techniques we didn’t cover here? Feel free to share your tips for aging and antiquing in the comments! Don’t forget to pin this image so you can find it again!

Like the vintage look? You’ll love this Vintage Map Lampshade project:

October 9, 2017/3 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

Build It, Furniture, Mudroom

DIY Mobile Mudroom

Hello Pretty Handy Girl readers! I’m Sarah from The Created Home, and I’m thrilled to meet you. I love versatile designs that makes life a little easier. This mobile mudroom is sure to help keep your entryway more organized. It’s a simple storage solution that combines form and function. Best of all this is the perfect project for someone who rents or isn’t ready to take on a custom build.

How simple is it? Well, I have a secret. This DIY Mobile Mudroom is actually an upcycle project.

You can build this from scratch (that’s how I build 98% of my projects), but sometimes it just makes more sense to use existing furniture. You can create this mobile mudroom using an old dresser or buffet and a minimal amount of lumber. The savings in time and lumber will be well justified!

There will be some differences in structure depending on what you start with, but the basic idea will be the same. Be creative, have fun, and please ask if you have any questions!

Let’s get this party started and build a DIY Mobile Mudroom!

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

4′ x 8′ x 1/2″ plywood
v-groove planking
stain
paint
hat hooks
2 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ boards
Kreg jig
5/8″ brad nails
1 ¼” pocket hole screws
wood glue
brad nailer
circular saw
speed square

Instructions:

The first step is locating an old dresser or sideboard/buffet. I picked this one up from the Habitat Restore and have been using it for shop storage. Other sources for cast off furniture are Craigslist, side of the road, and family members (or is that just mine?!)

You’ll want a piece that has three basic sections like the dresser pictured below:

Deconstruction:

Remove the middle section by pulling out the drawers and cutting out the shelf supports.

Depending on the dresser construction, you may have all drawers on either side or cupboards. The deconstruction should be fairly straight forward. (This was an Ikea piece, so it came right apart and only required a hammer to take apart.) If it doesn’t come apart easily, grab a pry bar or saw and cut the center pieces out. Leave the bottom support intact to maintain the shape of your piece.

Assess the condition of the top. If it’s dirty or rough, go ahead and clean it and sand any rough spots now.

Creating a seat from the dresser top:

Mark the top where it intersects with the middle section walls using a speed square. Use a circular saw to follow these lines and cut the top middle piece out. (You can see the top has been cut and is now resting in the middle in the photo below.) The middle piece should sit approximately 18″ off the ground for seat height.

DIY Mobile Mudroom Tutorial

Use scrap wood supports on either side to help you set the piece. Attach the middle section to the sides of the main body using pocket holes and screws. (New to using pocket holes? Follow Brittany’s tutorial on How to Use a Kreg Jig.)

Build the back board:

To create the back section, cut out a piece of 1/2″ plywood the width of your overall dresser. The exact height is up to you, though I found 42″ works well. Allow the plywood to overlap the dresser back by at least 6 inches. This gives you enough to attach to the mudroom base. You can use 3/4″ plywood here for more stability, but it will be heavier, and I’d recommend taking the plywood to the floor in that situation. Attach the plywood to the dresser using screws or bolts. Use at least two fasteners on each side, plus another two in the middle section.

Frame in the holes:

Use the leftover plywood to frame in under and behind the seat (shown below in red.) Attach with screws. You may need to run the plywood behind the seat a bit wider depending on how the back of your dresser is built. Just make sure there are supports for the screws to attach to.

DIY Mobile Mudroom Tutorial

Use the 1″ x 4″ boards to frame the back piece of plywood. Here’s a look at the framed plywood near its finished state:

Step 4: Add the shiplap (v-groove)

The v-groove planking is where the real magic happens. You can pick planking up at Lowes or Home Depot in economy packs. Typically they cost $10 per pack of six. Clad the plywood back with the v-groove planks using glue and brad nails to secure. Leave an inch or two of the bottom back unclad. (Shown in red below.)

Overlapping Back Mobile Mudroom

Create an overlapping v-groove piece that extends the same distance above the bench back (shown in blue above.) Then secure the plywood to the overlapping v-groove with screws.This will allow you to remove the back of your mobile mudroom. When assembled, the entire mudroom is difficult to get through doorways and around corners. This step allows you to take the back off to move.

If your dresser has inset side panels go ahead and add v-groove planking to the sides for a more cohesive look.

That’s it for the structure of the mudroom! All that’s left to do is the cosmetic work.

Fill the holes and finishing:

Because this is a repurposed piece, you will have holes leftover from the previous structure. Use wood filler to eliminate those spots and give a smooth finish. I prefer Bondo if you are painting your mobile mudroom. If you are staining it, use a stainable wood filler.

Of course you can finish your mobile mudroom any way you like. To achieve the aged and distressed look, stain the wood, then paint. After the paint dries, sand back some of the paint at edges and give it a distressed look that continues to look great even after being used and abused.

For a seamless finish, caulk any seams. If you are planning to remove the back, don’t caulk where the top plywood back meets the bench seat back. I did add a little caulk to where the v-groove meets the edges to make it look perfect. (My secret is out!)

Add a cute little pillow on your bench to invite little ones to sit down.

Add hooks to the back, making sure to attach them high enough for coats scarves and hats.

The spot below the bench is perfect for more storage if you add a basket.

You’ll find plenty of storage in the drawers, cabinets or shelves in your mobile mudroom. Close the doors or drawers to keep your mudroom looking nice and clean.

The sky is the limit with how you want to customize your own mobile mudroom. Replace the feet with something you like better, change up the back to give it any look you like. If you move, you can take your mobile mudroom with you! I’ll leave you with a shot of the mudroom in action. If you build one of your own I would love to see it!

DIY Mobile Mudroom Tutorial

Like this mobile mudroom? You might also like Brittany’s shoe storage bench made from kitchen cabinets:

Happy building!

August 16, 2017/1 Comment/by Sarah Home

Build It, DIY, Furniture

DIY Side Table Plans

DIY Side Table Plans

This little end table is a perfect fit for tight spaces or it would make a great plant stand! My sister asked me to make her a simple side table to sit between her chairs on the front porch, so here I am with the DIY Side Table Plans for you.

Hey guys, it’s Shara again from Woodshop Diaries! I’ve been working on several larger projects and decided to switch things up a little and work on some fun smaller builds like this cute little side table! The railings on the side make this somewhat of a “mission style” piece of furniture, which I’m quickly becoming a fan of. But the style is so simple that it would fit in with just about any décor—modern, farmhouse, traditional.

If you’re ready to get building this cute little DIY side table, here’s what you’ll need:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Tools:

Miter saw
Jig saw
Kreg Jig for pocket holes
Drill
Nail gun (or hammer and nails)
Clamps
Tape Measure

Materials:

(1) 2”x 2”x 8’ board
(2) 1”x 2”x 8’ board
(1) 1”x 6”x 8’ board
(1) 1’x 4’ x 8’ board
1 ¼” pocket hole screws
1 ¼” and 2 ½” wood screws
Wood Glue

Cut List:

(4) 1 ½”x 1 ½” x 19” (table legs)
(8) ¾” x 1 ½”x 11 ½” (top and bottom supports)
(3) ¾”x 5 ½”x 16 ½” (table top)
(1) ¾”x 3 ½”x 14 ½” (part of bottom shelf)
(2) ¾”x 5 ½”x 14 ½” (other part of bottom shelf)
(4) ¾”x 1 ½”x 12” (side rails)

DIY Side Table Plans Instructions:

Step 1: Cut legs and supports

Cut four 2”x 2” pieces for table legs according to the cut list above. Then, cut eight 1”x 2” pieces according to the cut list for the top and bottom supports.

Step 2: Assemble the frame

Drill a ¾” pocket hole into each end of all 8 support pieces. Make a mark on the legs 3” from the bottom. Attach the supports as shown below (line up the bottom edge of the bottom support with the 3” mark.)

Once you have two frames assembled as shown above, attach two supports between the two frames at the bottom (as shown below.) You can go ahead and attach the other two at the top, but I found it easier to do this after the bottom shelf is in place.

Step 3: Add bottom shelf

The bottom shelf is composed of two 1”x6” boards and one 1”x4” board. Cut the shelf pieces according to the cut list and glue them together using wood glue.

Once the glue has dried, use a jig saw to notch out 1 ½” squares into all four corners.

Slide the shelf in place and use a nail gun to secure the shelf to the bottom supports.

Step 4: Add side rails

Cut four 1”x 2” side rails according to the cut list. If you haven’t already attached the last two top supports from step 2, go ahead and attach these using 1 ¼” pocket hole screws. Place the 1”x 2” side rails in place (two rails on two opposite sides) spacing evenly. (I found 2 7/8” space between the rails provides even spacing.) Clamp rails in place while you screw them in.