DIY Archives - Page 6 of 52 - Pretty Handy Girl

Antique Heart Pine Flooring, Build It, DIY, fireplace, Fix It, weatherstripping

Build a Fireplace Insert Draft Stopper

I’m a little bit of a fanatic when it comes to drafts. (Remember the time I weather-stripped my garage doors?) Over time I’ve addressed most of the pesky cracks and crevices that invite cold air into our home. But, there was one draft that I’ve been meaning to serve an eviction notice to since the first winter we lived in our house. Today I’ll show you how to build a fireplace insert draft stopper!

Build a Fireplace Insert Draft Stopper

If you have an old wood-burning stover, or even one converted to gas logs, you likely know this old fireplace can be the source of cold air and drafts in the winter. Even with the damper closed, there is a draft that escapes into the room.

You can’t weatherstrip the damper (that would be a fire hazard), so I solved the issue by building a rustic reclaimed wood fireplace insert to stop the draft.

Want to build your own fireplace insert draft stopper? It’s not hard and you can complete it in an afternoon!

Fireplace Insert Draft Stopper Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Rigid foam insulation
4′ x 4′ Pegboard or masonite
Tape measure
Edge Cushion edge bumpers (in the baby proofing aisle)
Ear muffs (or ear plugs)
Eye protection
Caulk gun
Construction adhesive
Utility knife
Pencil
Kreg Jig
Speed square (optional)
Pocket hole screws
Circular saw with Kreg Rip Cut (or table saw or jigsaw)
Finish nailer
1.25″ finish nails for the nail gun
1×3’s, 1×4’s, 1×6’s or other reclaimed lumber
Staple gun and 3/8″ staples

Notes: I chose pegboard because it was slightly cheaper and weighed less than the masonite but was still rigid enough to hold the reclaimed wood. You can ask a Lowe’s employee to cut down the rigid foam insulation for you so you can fit it in your car. You can also have your pegboard cut at Lowe’s if you know your measurements upfront. I chose to use the Kreg Rip Cut because I was anxious to try it out. I liked how it worked and it was a good option if you don’t have a table saw or track saw. Finally, adding the reclaimed lumber is not necessary, I just like the look. Another option would be to buy foam insulation and wrap it with fabric and batting and simply fit it in the fireplace opening.

Instructions:

Start by measuring your fireplace opening. (Pssst. You can see that our bricks are faux painted in this picture. Learn how I painted my fireplace back to brick without sand-blasting!)

Check the width of the edge bumper (the one I used is 1/4 inch) and subtract that amount from three sides of the fireplace opening measurements.

Mark the cut lines on your pegboard material.

Lay the pegboard on top of the excess foam insulation and set the saw blade depth just below the pegboard.

Cut the pegboard to size. (If you don’t own a rip cut or track saw, you can make your own DIY Track Saw for your circular saw here!)

Check the fit of the cut pegboard with the edge bumper inside the fireplace opening. The pegboard should be loose, but allow the edge bumper to compress against the sides for a snug fit.

Building the Reclaimed Lumber Frame:

Using the same dimensions as the pegboard, cut your frame pieces (miter cut the corners for a clean look). 1″ x 4″ cedar boards worked well for the frame.

Use a Kreg Jig to make pocket holes in the corners. Clamp the corners (use a square to maintain true 90 degree angles) and drive the pocket screws into place.

Cut a vertical support piece for inside the center of the frame and attach it with pocket hole joinery.

Cut your reclaimed lumber edges at 45 degree angles. Lay each piece inside the frame and use the speed square to scribe a line where you need to cut.

Dry fit each piece and continue until you’ve filled the frame.

When all the pieces are cut, set them in the frame.

Time to assemble the “sandwich”. Lay something (scrap plywood, pegboard or foam insulation) on top of the reclaimed lumber design and flip it over so the backside is facing up. Use a liberal amount of construction adhesive on the back of the reclaimed lumber frame.

Lay the pegboard onto the reclaimed lumber and press firmly in place.

Lay the rubber edge bumper onto the side of the frame/pegboard sandwich and measure the area for the rigid foam insulation. Cut insulation to size. It should be inset on the sides and top to allow room for the bumper (as shown in the photo below.)

Add construction glue to the pegboard. Then lay the rigid foam on top of the pegboard.

Flip the frame over and double secure the frame to the pegboard with finish nails. Be sure that the air pressure is turned down so the nails don’t pierce through the back of the insulation.

Apply the double-stick tape that came with the bumper to the sides of the frame.

Cut the foam bumper for the first side and press it onto the double-stick tape. Cut the next side and notch out where there are any overlaps.

Firmly secure the bumper to the sides of the frame with a staple gun. This is a necessary step because with repeated removal of the insert, the bumper will eventually come off.

Feel free to add a handle or decorative pull to the front of your insert.

Press the insert into your fireplace and stop the drafts forever!

As a bonus, it also eliminates that big gaping black hole in the living room. And the insert is easily removed to enjoy a warm fire.

This Fireplace Insert Draft Stopper looks good year-round. My only regret is not making it sooner.

Winter is coming, help a friend stop drafts too by pinning this image!

Want more ways to save on energy bills and prepare for winter? Here are 21 Ways to Get Your Home Ready for Winter.

September 14, 2020/46 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

Crafts, DIY, DIYCourage, DIYLikeaBoss, Do It Yourself, Home Decor, Home Office, kids art, Kids Room, pottery barn inspiration, spray paint, Tutorial, Uncategorized

DIY Kid’s Craft Table

Have the kids taken over your kitchen table or island? Need somewhere to let the kids get creative? Today I am going to show you how to make a simple DIY kid’s craft table (or desk). Let’s get building.

DIY Kid’s Desk and Craft Table

If your children are going to be home this fall for distance learning or you just want a spot they can call their own, then it is time to get a space ready for them!! This DIY Kid’s Craft Table is the perfect size for whatever your child will need and it is small enough to fit in a spare corner in your home. Let’s make it!

I made this particular table for a client and it measures 30”h x 43”w x 23”d but you can modify these measurements to fit your needs. Of course, the quality of lumber you use is your choice but I used clear pine from my local big box store because it paints better than using common pine boards. It may be more expensive but the boards tend to be straighter, it saves time on sanding, and I feel it yields a better-finished product. It doesn’t matter what wood you use as long as you love it.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

2- 2 x 2 x 8
2- 1 x 4 x 8
1- 3/4” x 2 x 4
1 roll iron-on edge banding
1/4” thick piece of scrap
Wood glue
1 ¼” pocket-hole screws
Paint or stain
Topcoat

Tools:

Cut list and pocket-hole placement:

4- 2×2 @ 29 ¼”
2- 1×4 @ 38” (3 pocket-holes in each end)
2- 1×4 @ 18” (2 pocket-holes in each end)
1- 1×4 @ 19” (2 pocket-holes in each end)
3/4”x 43”x 23” birch plywood

Step 1: Sand table components

I know it seems odd to start with this step but trust me when I tell you it is much easier to sand these boards before they are in place. Depending on how rough your lumber is, begin using 60-80 grit sandpaper and incrementally work your way up to 220 grit sandpaper. I chose to use clear pine found at my local big box store so I was able to start with 120 grit sandpaper, which cut down my sanding time. This makes the extra money spent, well worth it!

Step 2: Assemble both table sides

Sandwich one 1 x 4 x 18” (apron) board between two 2 x 2 x 29 ¼” (leg) boards. Pocket-holes should be facing up.
To add a little detail, place a ¼” piece of scrap beneath the 1×4 board to inset it slightly. This will create a shallow reveal looks nice and also gives you a little grace because now the three boards don’t have to be flush to the same surface perfectly.
Clamp the legs and apron boards together and join them using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.
Repeat these steps for the other side of the table.

Step 3: Attach the front and back table aprons

With both side components standing on their sides sandwich a 1 x 4 x 38” (apron) board between them, again placing a ¼” board beneath the apron to inset it slightly.
Align the top of the 1×4 with the top of the side components.
Clamp and attach using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.
Carefully flip the piece over and repeat the above steps to attach the second 1 x 4 x 38” apron board.

Step 4: Attach center support

Attach the center support using wood glue and pocket screws between the two 1 x 4 x 38” boards centered in the middle.

Step 5: Clean up

With a putty knife or chisel gently remove any glue squeeze out and sand smooth.

Step 6: Edge banding

Once the plywood top is cut to size you will need to edge band to cover up the unsightly edges. I won’t go over all of the steps here but if you are new to edge banding please check out this tutorial on How to Finish Raw Plywood Edges.

Step 7: Finish

Time to paint or stain and topcoat!! My client wanted this piece painted white, so I chose a premium latex paint and used a water-based topcoat to protect the paint and prevent yellowing of the finish in the future.

Step 8: Attach the top

Place the tabletop on a flat surface (bottom side up) and center the base over the top upside down.
This plan allows for a 1” overhang of the top on all sides of the table base.
Using the pocket-holes that are shown in the diagrams below, attach the top with 1 ¼” pocket screws.

- Note: Normally I would not recommend attaching a tabletop using pocket screws IF that top were made of solid wood because of wood’s tendency to expand and contract. However, this top is made of plywood and the amount of expansion and contraction that will happen over time is negligible and should not affect the structure of the table base. If you are uncomfortable using pocket-holes to attach the top then feel free to attach it in some other way, such as with figure-8 fasteners or Z-clips.

Flip it over and admire your handy work!! Isn’t this DIY Kid’s Craft Table adorable?!

Check out my latest blog post about building a DIY Folding Craft/Sewing Table! This table is large enough for any craft project but folds down when you don’t need it. Perfect for anyone with a small space but large crafting ambitions!

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom, and registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture, and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the items we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips, and tricks.

I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on Pinterest, Instagram, and Facebook to see what I am working on right now.

If you enjoyed this tutorial and are looking for other cute ideas for kid’s desk or craft table check out these two fun projects. Both of these could be great projects you could do with the kids to keep the fun going.

Creative Block Desk & Art Utensil Holder

Creating a Chalkboard Desktop.

August 19, 2020/2 Comments/by In Her Garage

Build It, cabinet, DIY, DIY tools, DIYCourage, DIYLikeaBoss, Do It Yourself, Tool Tutorials, Uncategorized

How to Make a Half-Lap Joint with a Miter Saw

How to Make a DIY Half Lap Joint using Miter Saw

Want to add another joint to your woodworking skillset? Today I’ll show you how to create a simple DIY half-lap joint with your miter saw.

Half-Lap Joint with your Miter Saw

Hi! It’s Kristen from In Her Garage and I am going to teach you an easy way to create a half-lap joint to add to your DIY skill set. The half-lap joint is versatile and super strong.

Wondering what a half-lap joint even is? Put simply, a half-lap joint is a joint between two boards that are halved together so that a flush surface results. Check out the pictures below for two popular ways half-lap joints are used. Best of all this joint only requires wood glue to hold it together.

I have used this style of joint when a butt joint or pocket-hole joint isn’t possible. It’s helpful to use when working with thinner material or in tight spaces. Let’s learn how to make a half-lap joint!

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

2 boards to be joined together
2 sacrificial boards for use at the miter saw
Wood glue
120 grit sandpaper

Tools:

Sliding miter Saw with depth stop

Instructions:

Step 1: Mark your boards

Place your boards over one another in the orientation they will be joined.
Mark out the width of the overlap on each board.

Step 2: Set up your miter saw

Place a sacrificial board against the miter saw fence, with the face flat (as seen in the video below). This board should be flat and square. You will need this because you are not cutting through the board to be used in your project and thus the miter saw will not cut the back portion of the board you are cutting. The scrap piece will push your board out so that the miter saw will cut halfway down from the front to the back. If you do a test cut without the scrap board you’ll see what I mean.
Next, use your saw’s depth stop control and adjust the depth to cut approximately halfway down into the first board to be cut. Use a scrap piece of wood for this step to make sure you have the depth you want before using the board that will be used in your project.
Adjust the miter angle at this time as well if you are not planning to cut at 90 degrees.

Step 3: Cut the first board

With your depth set and scrap board in place make your first cut into your board. Make sure you are minding which side of the marked lines your blade needs to cut!
After the first cut move the board slightly (about 1/8”) and create another cut right next to the first.
Continue moving and cutting until you have created all the cuts needed between the two width lines you marked out previously.
Dry fit the second board into the first to make sure the width is correct and make any necessary adjustments.
Use sandpaper to smooth out any ridges left from the saw.

Step 4: Cut the second board

If you cut exactly halfway through the first board then you will not have to do any adjustments for this step and you can cut the second board exactly as you cut the first.
But, if you are like me you didn’t cut the first board perfectly and the depth will need to be adjusted slightly for the second board. This is simple.
The cut for the second board will need to be the depth of what you DIDN’T cut from the first board. Use a piece of scrap to fine-tune this depth before cutting the board you will use.
Now that the depth has been set for the second board you can cut the half-lap into the board just like you did for the first. Again, being mindful of which side of the lines your blade is cutting.
Dry fit the two boards together to be sure you have a snug fit and the boards create a flat surface.

Step 5: Glue together

Apply glue to both lap joints in each board and fit them together.
Apply downward pressure to the joint and allow the glue to dry.

There you have it!! You have expanded your talents and created a very strong half-lap joint for your next project. Nice work!

Pin this graphic for future reference:

New to using the miter saw or need a refresher? Check out the Pretty Handy Girl’s How to Use a Miter Saw tutorial to get you all caught up!

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom, and registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture, and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the items we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips, and tricks.

I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on Pinterest, Instagram, and Facebook to see what I am working on right now.

Check out my latest blog post about building a DIY Folding Craft/Sewing Table! This table is large enough for any craft project but folds down when you don’t need it. Perfect for anyone with a small space but large crafting ambitions!

July 15, 2020/0 Comments/by In Her Garage

arts and craft, Crafts, DIY

Hand-Lettered Mini Chalkboard Planters

Today I’m showing you how to add some greenery to your home in the form of these cute hand-lettered mini chalkboard planters. You can plant any type of plant you wish, but cacti and succulents would be my choice!

Hand-Lettered Mini Chalkboard Planters

Hey there, It’s Amanda from Domestically Creative back again with another simple DIY project. Today we’re making these adorable hand-lettered mini chalkboard pots! I’m including two different methods for making these planters. This project is intended for indoor use, but I’ll include steps to use (and materials) for outdoor use as well. It may seem like a silly thing to state, but chalkboard paint and chalk marker will fade, crack, and peel when exposed to the elements. You may be thinking to yourself, why even use chalkboard paint and marker, to begin with? Well, the whole point of a chalkboard is that you can change it! Let me show you how to make your own hand-lettered mini chalkboard planters.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

3″ clay pots
Chalkboard paint or outdoor black acrylic paint
Paintbrush
Chalk (if using chalkboard paint)
Chalk marker OR Oil-based Sharpie paint marker for outdoor use
Polyacrylic Sealer (if using outdoors)
Sandpaper (optional)
Potting soil (use a cactus mix for succulents)
Mini plants (cacti and succulents are perfect for these pots!)

Instructions:

Step 1. Cleaning terracotta pots

Before painting each terracotta pot, it’s essential to clean them well. Just use soap and water and rinse. Let the clay pots dry completely before moving on to the next step.

Step 2. Painting terracotta pots

Give the outside of each pot 2-3 coats of chalkboard paint, letting it dry in between coats. If the surface feels rough to the touch, lightly sand with 320 grit sandpaper in between coats. Don’t paint the inside of the pot.

Step 3. Prep the chalkboard surface

This step may not seem important, but it is! If you ever want to change up your chalkboard designs or lettering then you always want to season a new chalkboard surface before use. To do this, take a piece of chalk (using the side of the chalk), cover the entire surface in chalk.

Wipe the chalk off with an eraser or a dry cloth. You’ll be left with a surface that looks like it’s been used! This helps prevent ghosting, which is what happens when you erase chalk or chalk marker and are left with an outline of what was there.

Step 4. Personalize with chalk marker

Now it’s time to have some fun! Practice your hand-lettering skills with a chalk marker and personalize the pots however you wish! These pots feature the words “grow”, “stay alive”, and “don’t succ” since I knew I’d be planting cacti and succulents.

Tips for hand lettering:

Practice on a piece of paper first to get the size and layout just right. Pick the marker up after each stroke of the letter, which is a different concept than what you learn with cursive. If desired, go back in and thicken up the downstrokes to create a brush lettered look!

If you are interested in learning more about hand-lettering, check out my blog Designs by Amanda Kay for free practice sheets and tutorials!

Step 5. Plant!

If you are going to be planting succulents or cacti in your mini chalkboard pots, be sure to use an appropriate potting soil! Fill about 3/4 of the way up with soil, tuck in each plant, and then fill in with soil around the roots. Water lightly and place them in a sunny area in your home.

Using These Chalkboard Pots Outdoors?

The steps will be similar, but the products used will vary. First, you’ll want to choose an outdoor acrylic paint instead of chalkboard paint. Outdoor acrylic will hold up to weather better, and won’t fade when sealed. There will be no need to prep the surface with chalk, so just skip that step! Use an oil-based paint marker for lettering (water-based markers or chalk markers will fade in the sun or run in the rain).

One important extra step is applying a sealant. Using a polycrylic top coat will protect the paint from cracking, chipping, and fading in the sun. Keep in mind that the terracotta pots will lose their moisture-wicking capabilities when painted and sealed.

My mini chalkboard planters live in my office where the plants get plenty of light throughout the day! Plus they add a nice touch of greenery to my creative space.

What part of your home could use a set of these hand-lettered chalkboard planters?

Love this tutorial? Don’t forget to pin for later!

I’m Amanda, and I am the creator and voice behind the food and DIY blog, Domestically Creative. What started as a place to share updates with friends and family after we moved from Illinois to Tennessee and then to Texas, turned into a passion for finding creative and frugal ways to feed us and decorate our homes.

I have always had the “make it myself” attitude and I’m not afraid to bust out the power tools or get creative when it comes to decorating our home on a budget. You can usually find me scouring the local thrift stores, garage sales and estate sales looking for my next makeover (like this litter box cabinet), or dreaming up ways to make our new house feel more like home. My most recent project was giving my home office a much needed facelift. Some of the plans included creating a fun inspirational accent wall and adding pegboard to store my craft hoards.

I currently call Missouri home, where I live with my husband, dog, and 2 cats in a pretty dull, late 90’s split level. My husband and I both love to travel the U.S and recently purchased a small travel trailer to tag along in our journeys. In our free time together we can usually be found working together on a home project, exploring a new place, or just lounging with our pup, Delilah.

I’d love for you to connect with me on social media via Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Twitter!

See all of Amanda’s tutorials HERE.

July 8, 2020/0 Comments/by Domestically Creative

Build It, cabinet, circular saw, Contributor, DIY, DIYCourage, DIYLikeaBoss, Do It Yourself, Home Decor, power tools

DIY Beverage Center

It’s 5 o’clock somewhere! Whether it’s 5 am or 5 pm this DIY Beverage Center will hold whatever it is that gets you going in the morning and winds you down in the evening.

DIY Beverage Center

Hi there! This is Kristen from In Her Garage and I am going to teach you how to build a DIY beverage center for your home. I have built a couple of these and each client who received this beverage center loves to tell me how appreciative they are to have a separate space to hold their coffee supplies and adult beverages. Plus, a beverage center freed up space needed in their kitchen refrigerator.

This beverage center measures approximately 40”h x 38 ½”w x 24 ½”d and I built it to house the Whirlpool JC 103EZY Mini-fridge that a client had purchased. Feel free to modify the dimensions for the mini-fridge of your choice, just keep in mind there should be an allowance on the sides and top for proper airflow around the fridge (usually specified in the owner’s manual). This particular mini-fridge requires 2” on both sides and top.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

2- 3/4″x4’x8′ birch plywood
2- 2x3x8 studs
3- 1x2x8 boards
1- 1x4x6 board
1- 1/8″ x 2 x 4 tempered hardboard backer
4- 22″ drawer slides
4- drawer pulls
1 ¼” Kreg Pocket Hole Screws
2” wood screws
2 ½” wood screws
2 rolls Iron-on edge banding
Pocket hole plugs (optional)
Wood glue
Figure-8 tabletop fasteners and appropriate size Forstner bit
Paint/stain
Clear topcoat

Tools:

Table saw or circular saw
Miter saw
Kreg Pocket-hole Jig
Drill
#8 countersink drill bit
Brad Nailer
Multi-tool or flush trim saw (optional, used for pocket-hole plugs)
Clothes iron (used for iron-on edge banding)

Board Cuts:

2- 2×3 @ 36″
3- 2×3 @ 20¼”
2- 1×2 @ 39 ¼”
1- 1×2 @ 34 ¼”
1- 1×2 @ 34 ½”
1- 1×4 @ 34 ½”
2- 1×2 @ 23″ – drill two pocket hole’s in both ends
2- 1×2 @ 12 ¼” – drill two pocket hole’s in both ends

Cut list and corresponding pocket-hole placement:

To make plywood cuts easier while using a circular saw please check out my tutorial for creating your own DIY Track Saw Jig for your circular saw. It will make cutting plywood simple and foolproof!

Instructions:

Step 1: Create the beverage center base

First, build a base frame using the cut 2×3 studs, wood glue, and 2 ½” wood screws. Pre-drill your holes to prevent splitting.

Next, Secure the bottom plywood panel on top of the base frame and secure it with wood glue and brad nails

Step 2: Attach beverage center sides

On a flat surface, stand both sides on their backs with the pocket-holes pointing to the ceiling.
Apply glue to the sides of the beverage center base and stand it on its back.
Sandwich the base between the two sides aligning the bottoms and fronts of the sides and base. If you have clamps use them to squeeze the sides to the base or have someone help hold them in place until they are secured.
Now pre-drill three holes in each side, drilling from the inside of the base frame 2×3 out into the sides, and attach using 2″ screws.
Stand the piece up

Step 3: Attach center divider

Grab both 1 x 2 x 23″ support boards and use those as spacers for the center divider.
Place a small bead of glue along the bottom of the center divider panel (the short edge with pocket-holes) and place it over the base spaced by the 1×2 boards. Be sure that the long edge with the pocket-holes is facing the front just like the pocket-holes on the sides.
Attach the center divider with 1 ¼” Kreg pocket screws

Step 4: Attach the top spacer supports

Using the same two 1 x 2 x 23″ support boards you used to space the center divider and 1 ¼” pocket screws, attach the boards to the front and back of the side and center divider at the top of the panels to create even spacing.
Repeat with the 1 x 2 x 12 ¼” boards spacing between the center divider and the opposite side.

Step 5: Build the Face Frame

If you haven’t cut the boards for the face frame yet do that now according to the cut list or the diagram below.
Refer to the diagram below for pocket-hole placement.
Use wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws to attach the face frame pieces as depicted.

Step 6: Attach the face frame to the beverage center box and plug pocket-holes

Attach using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws aligning the sides, top, and bottom. You can either lay the carcass on its back or clamp the face frame to the carcass while it is standing up.
If you choose to plug the pocket-holes do that now. You will only need to plug the pocket-holes in the refrigerator compartment of the beverage center because the other pocket-holes won’t be visible within the drawer compartment.

Step 7: Attach drawer slides

I used eight 1 x 2 x 23” strips of plywood to create runners to attach the drawer slides to. To evenly space each runner vertically I use a couple of pieces of scrap cut to the same height. When the runner is spaced and level, attach it using glue and brad nails.
Now attach your drawer slides to these runners keeping the front of the drawer slide just behind the face frame.
This step can be done in a couple of ways and most people have their preference for installing drawers and drawer slides but this is my method.

Step 8: Build the drawer boxes and apply drawer slides

There are several different ways to build drawer boxes and you will need to decide on dimensions based on the drawer slides that you’ve chosen to use. I have provided a diagram for a simple method of building drawer boxes. (Or you can follow this tutorial for building drawers.)

If you choose to add edge banding to the top edge of your drawer boxes I recommend doing this after the box components are cut but before assembly to make the process easier. New to edge banding? Pop over to see a tutorial on finishing raw plywood edges.
After the drawer boxes are built apply the drawer slides to the boxes and slide into place to check for fit. Make any necessary adjustments to make sure the drawer boxes are level and flush to the back of the face frame. You’ll want to make those adjustments now because it can be very difficult to do after the drawer faces are attached. I have learned this the hard way.
EXTRA! One great addition to the beverage center is to add a DIY Drawer in a Drawer to keep small items such as corkscrews, bottle openers, K-cups, and wine corks organized. Check out my tutorial for how to build this because now would be the perfect time to incorporate it into the beverage center.

Step 9: Cut the drawer faces and beverage center top

Using the remaining plywood cut out the beverage center top, and drawer faces. You WILL need to edge band these pieces to hide the unsightly edge!
Cut the top to overhang the base by 1/2″ on either side and the front.
The drawer faces should be cut to fit within the face frame and cover each drawer box with a 1/16″ gap around each drawer face. A tip is to use playing cards or nickels to get even spacing.

Step 10: Finishing

You’ve gotten as far as you possibly can without putting it all together which means it’s time to sand everything smooth and apply the finish you’ve chosen.
Remember, if you are staining then you should be using a pre-stain wood conditioner which will help the plywood absorb the stain evenly and prevent blotchy discolorations.
Apply a protective topcoat. A wipe-on polyurethane (over oil-base stain) or polycrylic (over water-based paint) is a great choice for this build.

Step 11: Attach drawer faces and drawer hardware

Start by removing all drawer boxes except the bottom and then work your way up.
Use your playing cards or nickels to help you evenly space the drawer face with the face frame, then pre-drill 2 holes from the inside of the drawer box out into the drawer face.
Next, use two 1 ¼” screws to attach each drawer face to the drawer box.
Once all drawer faces are attached, you can install your drawer pulls according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Finally, cut the 1/8″ backer board to size to cover the back of the drawer compartment and attach it with brad nails.

Step 12: Attach the top

Using the figure-eight fasteners and matching size Forstner bit attach two figure-eight fasteners to each side and the center divider. If you’re unsure how to attach figure-eight fasteners here is a quick video to help you out:

Note: This is a very heavy piece of furniture and should not be moved by lifting from the top. Always lift from the sides or bottom.

Step 13: Install the mini-fridge!

Once the beverage center has been carried to where it will be placed in your home slide the mini-refrigerator into place and fill it with your favorite beverages. I already know what mine would be! 😉

Great job!! This is going to be such a cool piece to have in your home and you’ll enjoy the extra space in your kitchen refrigerator.

Check out my latest blog post about building a DIY Folding Craft/Sewing Table! This table is large enough for any craft project but folds down when you don’t need it. Perfect for anyone with a small space but large crafting ambitions!

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom, and registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture, and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the items we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips, and tricks.

I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on Pinterest, Instagram, and Facebook to see what I am working on right now.

June 17, 2020/0 Comments/by In Her Garage