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DIY Fence Trellis

Weave your vines through the fence trellis to create a living wall!

DIY Fence Trellis

Hi, Pretty Handy Girl readers! I’m Vineta from The Handyman’s Daughter, and today I’m going to show you how to create this easy DIY fence trellis. Easily give a boring, flat fence visual interest in winter, and a place for vines to grow in the summer!

Our entire backyard is surrounded by a six-foot-high cedar fence, which gives us plenty of privacy but isn’t exactly pretty. The previous owner planted clematis vines along one side, but didn’t give it anything to grab onto. So it sits in a pile on the ground instead! This fence trellis will give the vines something to climb and fill in the plain background.

Materials for Fence Trellis

Cedar fence pickets (I ripped 6″ wide pickets into 1 ½” strips, but you can also use 1 x 2 boards.)
Sander and sandpaper
Exterior wood stain (I used Behr’s waterproofing exterior stain in Coffee)
Nail gun or hammer
1 ¼” brad nails
Level
Scrap of 1 x 4 board to use for spacer

How to Build a DIY Fence Trellis

Start by cutting four 6″ wide cedar pickets into 1 ½” wide strips lengthwise. If you don’t have a table saw, you can simply use 1 x 2 boards.

Next, cut the strips down into shorter lengths. I made a few of each of these dimensions: 16″, 20″, 22″, 24″, 26″ and 30″.

Sand each piece, then give them all two coats of your preferred exterior wood stain.

Once the stain is dry, you can start assembly! Begin with the longest pieces. Hold them vertically against your fence, spacing them out along the fence evenly and nailing them directly to the fence.

Next, select a few pieces to attach horizontally at the bottom. Nail one end to the vertical support, then use the level to make sure it’s even before nailing down the other end.

Use the 1 x 4 spacer to keep the distance between horizontal pieces the same. Rest the spacer on top of the attached piece, then prop another piece on top and nail into place. This is much easier than using a tape measure!

Work your way up the fence, randomly placing horizontal pieces. Make sure each one is attached to at least two vertical supports. Add more vertical supports as needed to bridge the gaps.

Remember to step back and to view your overall design every once in a while. It should look random, but not TOO random! It’s easy to pull off pieces and move them around if you don’t like how it’s turning out. I went for an asymmetrical look, but you could make a simple grid if you prefer.

Weave the vines under the elevated pieces to help the plants find a spot to grip. Over time, the vines will find their own way up the DIY fence trellis. I can’t wait to see them blooming next spring!

Want some more trellis ideas? You can get the free building plans for this angled garden trellis I created for another part of the fence at The Handyman’s Daughter!

Or create a lattice privacy wall trellis instead!

I’d love to hear what you would recommend planting under this DIY Fence Trellis. Until next time!

~ view more of Vineta’s projects ~

August 2, 2017/7 Comments/by Vineta Jackson

Build It, DIY, Furniture

DIY Side Table Plans

DIY Side Table Plans

This little end table is a perfect fit for tight spaces or it would make a great plant stand! My sister asked me to make her a simple side table to sit between her chairs on the front porch, so here I am with the DIY Side Table Plans for you.

Hey guys, it’s Shara again from Woodshop Diaries! I’ve been working on several larger projects and decided to switch things up a little and work on some fun smaller builds like this cute little side table! The railings on the side make this somewhat of a “mission style” piece of furniture, which I’m quickly becoming a fan of. But the style is so simple that it would fit in with just about any décor—modern, farmhouse, traditional.

If you’re ready to get building this cute little DIY side table, here’s what you’ll need:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Tools:

Miter saw
Jig saw
Kreg Jig for pocket holes
Drill
Nail gun (or hammer and nails)
Clamps
Tape Measure

Materials:

(1) 2”x 2”x 8’ board
(2) 1”x 2”x 8’ board
(1) 1”x 6”x 8’ board
(1) 1’x 4’ x 8’ board
1 ¼” pocket hole screws
1 ¼” and 2 ½” wood screws
Wood Glue

Cut List:

(4) 1 ½”x 1 ½” x 19” (table legs)
(8) ¾” x 1 ½”x 11 ½” (top and bottom supports)
(3) ¾”x 5 ½”x 16 ½” (table top)
(1) ¾”x 3 ½”x 14 ½” (part of bottom shelf)
(2) ¾”x 5 ½”x 14 ½” (other part of bottom shelf)
(4) ¾”x 1 ½”x 12” (side rails)

DIY Side Table Plans Instructions:

Step 1: Cut legs and supports

Cut four 2”x 2” pieces for table legs according to the cut list above. Then, cut eight 1”x 2” pieces according to the cut list for the top and bottom supports.

Step 2: Assemble the frame

Drill a ¾” pocket hole into each end of all 8 support pieces. Make a mark on the legs 3” from the bottom. Attach the supports as shown below (line up the bottom edge of the bottom support with the 3” mark.)

Once you have two frames assembled as shown above, attach two supports between the two frames at the bottom (as shown below.) You can go ahead and attach the other two at the top, but I found it easier to do this after the bottom shelf is in place.

Step 3: Add bottom shelf

The bottom shelf is composed of two 1”x6” boards and one 1”x4” board. Cut the shelf pieces according to the cut list and glue them together using wood glue.

Once the glue has dried, use a jig saw to notch out 1 ½” squares into all four corners.

Slide the shelf in place and use a nail gun to secure the shelf to the bottom supports.

Step 4: Add side rails

Cut four 1”x 2” side rails according to the cut list. If you haven’t already attached the last two top supports from step 2, go ahead and attach these using 1 ¼” pocket hole screws. Place the 1”x 2” side rails in place (two rails on two opposite sides) spacing evenly. (I found 2 7/8” space between the rails provides even spacing.) Clamp rails in place while you screw them in.

Drill pilot holes through the top supports and screw in 2 ½” screws to hold the rails in place at the top.

Then, drill pilot holes at an angle through the bottom and screw in 1 ¼” screws to hold the rails in place at the bottom.

Step 5: Attach the top

Cut three 1”x6” boards for the top according to the cut list. Just like the bottom shelf, glue the boards together.

Once the glue has dried, line the top of the table base with glue and clamp the top on.

Finishing Your DIY Side Table:

Sand it down and putty holes. Paint, stain or finish as desired. I stained the table with Rustoleum Weathered Gray.

I love the simple style of this table. What do you guys think? Do you think you could use these DIY plans to build your own side table?

For another simple, but stylish end table, check out my twisty table!

Until next time, happy building 🙂

Like this side table? You may also like this copper pipe and wood half round table:

July 26, 2017/10 Comments/by Shara M

Build It, cleaning, DIY, Do It Yourself, organizational tips

DIY Scrap Wood Caddy

Hey everyone!! It’s Shara here again from Woodshop Diaries to bring you a simple, versatile, and really fun project. It’s a scrap wood caddy!

I hesitate to put a label on what type of caddy it could be because you can carry whatever you want inside. Cleaning supplies, tools, craft knick knacks, gardening accessories — the possibilities are endless!

The size is easy to customize and you only need a few tools and some scrap plywood. If you don’t have any scraps, pick up a quarter sheet of 3/4” or 1/2” plywood at the lumber yard or big box store to make this.

If you’re ready to get building, here’s the plan:

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Miter saw
Jig saw
Tape measure
Drill
Hammer and nails or nail gun
Scrap ¾” or ½” plywood (or ¼ sheet if you don’t have scraps)
Glue
Nails
Sandpaper

Cut List:

(Keep in mind: you can customize for different size scraps or for a larger or smaller caddy)

(2) pieces 3/4” x 8” x 19” (front and back)
(1) piece 3/4” x 8” x 17 ½” (bottom)
(2) pieces 3/4” x 8” x 8” (sides)
(1) piece 3/4” x 8” x 12” (middle divider w/ handle cutout)
(2) pieces 3/4” x 8” x 6 ½” (middle dividers)

Instructions:

Step 1: Cut out middle divider with handle

Cut your scraps to 8” wide to make the build easier. (If you don’t like 8”, you could make it another size, but the cut list will change slightly.)

Take a piece of 8” wide x 12” tall and mark the center. Measure and mark 2” to each side of the center and 5” down. Draw diagonal lines to connect the marks as shown:

Use a miter saw to cut the diagonal corners off.

Draw a handle hole. To make this an easy task, drill two holes first (using a drill bit or hole saw) to get the blade in.

Then cut along your line.

Sand your edges smooth.

Step 2: Cut out the front and back sides

Cut two pieces of your plywood to 8” x 19”. Find the center of one of the pieces lengthwise. Flip the middle divider from step 1 upside down and center it on the 8″ x 19″ plywood. The top of the divider should line up 3” from the bottom of the plywood. Trace the diagonal cut out onto the plywood and cut out using a jig saw. Trace the same shape onto the second 8″ x 19″ plywood piece and cut out to match.

Step 3: Assemble the bottom

Cut the bottom piece* (8” x 17 ½”) and 2 side pieces (8” x 8”).

*If you are using 1/2” scrap plywood instead, be sure to add an extra 1/2” to the length of your bottom piece.

Glue and nail the pieces together as shown below. You can use hammer and nails, but a nail gun would be ideal to save time and prevent pieces from moving while you assemble.

Step 4: Attach sides

Glue and nail the front and back pieces from step 2 to the sides and bottom from step 3.

Step 5: Assemble the middle dividers

Cut the 2 middle dividers from the cut list (8” x 12”). Measure and mark the vertical centers of the divider pieces. Make sure that the piece with the handle is centered on the middle dividers. This will make your inside “compartments” the same size.

Glue and nail these pieces to the handle cut out piece from step 1.

Step 6: Add dividers

Slide the dividers into the box you made in step 4 and make sure to center it. Nail the dividers in place through the front and back of the caddy. You can add a couple nails in the bottom as well, just be careful that you don’t miss and have stray nails coming up through the bottom of your caddy.

Give your caddy a good sanding and it’s good to go. You can add paint or stain, but I left mine natural.

This caddy could be used for cleaning supplies. . .

. . . craft supplies. . .

. . . tools or any small things you want to organize.

Don’t you love a good scrap wood project? Me too! For more fun scrap wood projects, check out this DIY personalized lazy Susan made from 2x scrap boards, or this floating mirror shelf made from a scrap 2×4.

You may also like these simple scrap wood caddies:

Rustic Branch Handled Caddy

Mini Picket Fence Caddy

Until next time, happy building!

~ Read more of Shara’s tutorials ~

June 28, 2017/6 Comments/by Shara M

arts and craft, DIY, gifts

DIY Teacher Sign for End-of-Year Gift

This teacher sign is the perfect end-of-year gift!

Hi everyone! It’s Vineta from The Handyman’s Daughter back with another fun project to share with you! It’s almost the end of the school year, and I’ve been racking my brain to come up with a nice gift for my son’s second grade teacher. Hopefully this little wooden sign will make its way into her classroom next year and reminds her of how much she means to her students.

I used one of my favorite stencil techniques, on this family birthdate sign I created for Mother’s Day. The reverse stencil effect appears almost like magic when stain is applied!

We’re going to use the same technique for this DIY Teacher Sign. Here’s how it works!

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Scrap piece of plywood about 9″ x 12″
Stencil vinyl
Silhouette or Cricut machine
Wood glue
Gel wood stain
Sanding sponge
Small paint brush
Foam brush
Tack cloth
Iron-on edge banding and iron (or use wood trim to create a frame)

Instructions:

I started by digging through my wood pile for some scrap plywood and unearthed a 9″ x 12″ piece that would work perfectly. Remove any dust from the surface with a tack cloth.

You can choose from one of the many designs in the Silhouette Store (I used this one), or design your own. Apply the white stencil vinyl to the cutting mat and let the machine do the cutting.

Weed out the letters and shapes, then lay the transfer tape on top of the design. Use the smoothing tool to push out any air bubbles and ensure that the stencil is on securely.

Peel up the stencil and transfer tape together. Apply it to the plywood. Smooth out any air bubbles, then remove the transfer tape. The stencil should remain. Give the stencil one last rub, concentrating on the edges of the letters and shapes.

Here’s the trick to this stenciling technique: wood glue! Have you ever discovered a big blob of wood glue preventing stain from soaking into your project? We’re going to take advantage of that instead of fighting it!

Dip your craft brush into the wood glue and carefully paint a thin layer inside the stencil. Move from the outside in, and try not to get any glue under the stencil vinyl. Allow it to dry for at least half an hour and the wood glue has turned clear.

Carefully remove the stencil from the plywood. Some of the wood glue may flake off or stick to the letters. Use the fine grit sanding sponge to remove any excess. Anything with glue on it won’t take the stain, so make sure the edges are as sharp and clean as possible.

Using a foam brush, stain the surface of the sign. Gel stain works best for this technique.

After a few minutes, rub off the excess. I prefer to stick my gloved hand in an old sock to wipe off the surface. Like magic the letters pop against the dark stain!

If you prefer more contrast, apply a second coat of stain. I found that thicker fonts and dark stain show up best. Apply a coat of poly over the surface to protect the surface and give it a glossy finish.

Use iron-on wood veneer edge banding to cover up the plywood edges and cut off the excess with a utility knife. Brittany has a great tutorial on how to apply edge banding. You could also create a simple frame using trim.

Your teacher sign is ready for the last day of school (although I’m not!)

Hope you enjoyed this tutorial! Don’t forget to check out all my other woodworking projects over at The Handyman’s Daughter!

Until next time!

~ view more of Vineta’s projects ~

June 7, 2017/4 Comments/by Vineta Jackson

DIY, organizational tips

Hanging Garden Tool Organizer

Hi again, I’m Vineta from The Handyman’s Daughter and I’m back this month with a smart idea for organizing your garden tools. My garden tools were always scattered throughout the shed making it hard to get started on a gardening project. Thanks to this Hanging Garden Tool Organizer, there’s now a place for everything.

Seattle’s Spring got off to a slow start, so as soon as the sun came out I was anxious to get new plants in the ground. I recently built a garden trellis and it was time to add climbing vines! Unfortunately, when I opened the garden shed, I faced this disaster . . .

Toys, leaves, and even my husband’s long lost bike helmet littered the floor. Sadly half the hooks on the pegboard walls were empty. Obviously I needed a better organizational system before someone got a rake to the head!

I cleared everything out (including too many spiders) and took inventory. Toys were relocated to the new storage bench I built for the backyard; plastic pots were recycled; and broken tools were tossed. Bigger shovels and rakes went back on the hooks, but I needed to create a home for the small hand tools and gloves.

I didn’t want to throw all the smaller items in a bucket where they would get lost again. An inexpensive shoe organizer was the perfect solution. Adding labels to each pocket helps keep everything in its place.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

How to Make a Hanging Garden Tool Organizer:

Start by measuring the size of one pocket of the shoe organizer. (Mine are a little over 4 inches wide and 7 inches long.) If you don’t want to use all the pockets, feel free to trim off the extras. I only needed a dozen for all my small items, so I cut off the bottom two rows.

Make a list of all the tools you want to store in the pockets. Using the software that comes with your vinyl cutting machine, create labels with text or images. (Mine are a combination of this design and clip art I found online.) Don’t forget to mirror the image if it has text!

Place the iron-on vinyl onto the sticky mat (shiny side down) and feed the mat into the machine. Send your design to cut. Cut apart the individual designs and weed out the negative space.

Place each design (plastic side up) on a pocket of the shoe organizer. It’s a good idea to keep heavier tools like the trowel and pruning shears at the bottom and lighter items like seeds and gloves at the top.

Set your iron to the highest setting. Lay a piece of cotton cloth (a thin tea towel or even a t-shirt is fine) on top of your design. Iron it in place. Move the iron around over the design for 30 seconds to adhere the vinyl to the pocket. Be careful not to leave the iron in one spot too long or you risk scorching the fabric.

Your design is adhered properly when the clear plastic peels away cleanly. If it still sticks, iron more!

Once the iron on is cool, move on to the next one. I had never used iron-on vinyl before and was pretty impressed at how flexible it is. The vinyl looks like it would peel up easily, but it adhered firmly.

Hang your organizer. My organizer came with over-the-door hooks, but they were too big for the louvered doors of my shed. I used hooks to hang it on the pegboard wall. Time to fill up your organizer.

The heavier tools flopped forward so I stapled the fold of the pockets to the pegboard to keep them straight.

No more hunting for that matching glove! They always have a home now.

Now my garden shed is neat and organized! I can instantly see what tools are missing and hunt them down in the garden before they turn to rust. The images on the garden tool organizer make it easy for even the little kids to help with clean up.

Need more garden tool storage ideas? I’ve found some genius garden tool storage ideas, including the inspiration for this project, here.