How to Install Privacy Film on WindowsHow to Install Privacy Film on Windows

Do you have a window in your house that puts you on full display? Or maybe your neighbor’s house is very close to your’s and you feel like they can see in your window (especially a bathroom or bedroom window.) Sure you can add curtains or blinds, but then you won’t get the natural light you want from your windows. Today I have the solution to your privacy needs without blocking the light. Let me show you how easy it is to install privacy film to your windows with professional looking results.


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

About the Privacy Film:

Before we begin, I have to tell you when Stick Pretty approached me about using their product I was thrilled to find they have some very attractive options for privacy film! Those of us that shop at the big home improvement stores know the options for privacy film are fairly limited. Feast your eyes on just a few of the beautiful adhesive film patterns Stick Pretty has to offer:

And there is a semi-transparent option for blurred viewing (less opaque.)

That’s not all. You can also order any of the patterns in a sheer adhesive film to dress up your windows. All the adhesive window films are customizable with white, fog, mushroom, or black designs.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Stick Pretty also sells tile decals (to brighten your tiles or cover up ugly tiles.)

And they offer decorative adhesive panels for use on walls, furniture, or anywhere your imagination can think of.

If you find yourself falling in love with any of the products on the Stick Pretty website, don’t forget to get 20% OFF your order if you use the code: “PrettyHandyGirl” at checkout.

Now, on to the tutorial for installing privacy film on  your windows.


Watch this quick video to see how easy it is to install privacy film to any window.

Step 1. Clean

Use glass cleaner and a lint free rag to clean the window really well. Make sure there’s nothing on the glass that will stick under the adhesive film (which would stick there forever until you take it off).

Step 2. Measure & Cut

Measure each pane of glass on your window. Add 1/8 of an inch, because it’s better to cut the film too big. We will cut off the excess at the end.

Transfer your measurements onto the privacy film. Use a sharp x-acto blade and a metal ruler to guide your cuts. Apply gentle pressure as you cut the film.

3. Installing the Privacy Film

Carefully peel up your privacy film and take it to the window immediately. If you wait, dust can settle onto your film.

The key to a really good adherence of the film to the window (with no bubbles or wrinkles) is to use a mixture of water and a few drops of dish soap in a spray bottle.

It also helps to use a good squeegee.

Spray a liberal amount of the water and soap mixture onto the glass. If you find the film sticking too much to the glass, spray more of the mixture onto the glass.

Line up the film at the top. Using your hands, push from the center, down and out to set the privacy film. If needed, lift the film and reposition.

Use the squeegee to push out any water and air bubbles. Again, working from the center out and top down.

Use a clean rag and run it along the edges to clean up any water that has squirted out.

Step 4. Trimming Excess

If your film is too large and overlaps off the glass, take a sharp x-acto knife and cut off the excess. Peel off the trimmed excess.

Then squeegee the film again and clean it up any water from the edges.

You can see the difference between the regular window glass and the glass with privacy film on it below.

Half installed window privacy film see the difference

After installing your privacy film, you may see some ghosting between the film and the window. As long as you have pushed all the air bubbles out of the film, the ghosting should go away after a few days. (Can you spot the ghost spots in the picture below? Within 48 hours they had disappeared.)

Hopefully this tutorial will help someone reclaim some privacy in their home without giving up natural light! Pin this image to share with a friend:

How to Install Privacy Film on Windows

Friends, I have a question for you:

I decided to let the video tutorial guide you through the process on this tutorial instead of the usual step-by-step photos. Let me know what you think and if you miss the photos when there is a video tutorial. Thanks for your feedback.

Disclosure: Stick Pretty sent me the privacy film at no cost to try out on the Saving Etta project. I was not told what to say. All opinions are my own. If you use the coupon code: “PrettyHandyGirl” on the website, you will receive a discount and I will receive a small percentage of the sale. As always, I am very particular about the brands I represent on this website and will always let you know if you are reading a sponsored post or if I received free materials.

If you liked this tutorial and want to add a layer of security to your glass doors or windows, you’ll appreciate my tutorial for adding security film to your home.

How to Add Security Film to Glass Doors & Windows | Pretty Handy Girl

Saving Etta: Master Bathroom Reveal

This is a master bathroom reveal I’ve been dying to share with you. The master bathroom in the Saving Etta house acted as a room I could experiment in and test some ideas for my own personal bathroom (that is currently stuck in 1978). I used a lot of elements I had pinned for my own bathroom ideas. Many of them looked amazing, but a few of the elements I learned are not as amazing as I thought they were. Regardless, I am thrilled with how the master bathroom turned out.

But, before we move to the reveal, I need to give a big thank you to the Saving Etta sponsors. As you all know, I’m very particular about the brands I work with and I can honestly say my sponsors are the cream of the crop when it comes to selling products for your home and lifestyle.

The Bathroom Before:

When I bought the Saving Etta house, there was only one bathroom. And it was one sad excuse for a bathroom. The size was decent, but the condition was abysmal. The leaking roof had done a number on the ceiling and walls.

Saving Etta - The Story of Saving a House Built in 1900 | Pretty Handy Girl

There was so much mold in this one room, that I closed the door and sealed it up with plastic while I began demo in the other rooms.

In fact, I much preferred the port-a-potty to the indoor bathroom (which should explain how awful Etta’s original bathroom was.)

While demo progressed, I put together a mood board for the new Master Bathroom. You can see more inspiration photos and sources in the Master Bathroom design plans.

Demolition and New Framing:

This is the last time I laid eyes on that poor sad original bathroom. I never touched anything in that room. There wasn’t anything worth salvaging. Even the tub was in rough shape.

As soon as the back of the house was removed, work began on building the new addition in its place. But, once framing started, things really began to take shape. My plumber installed the shower pan for me.

The drywallers installed the Purple drywall in the bathroom (this drywall should never mold!)

There was some debate between my subcontractors about water-proofing the shower in the master bathroom. I finally added some thick plastic and caulked the seams around the shower niche to prevent any future issues with moisture.

Then PermaBase cement board was installed over the plastic by my drywallers.

This is one thing I learned from this experience. Next time I will let the tile setters install the backer board for the tile. Apparently my drywall installers did a very sloppy job and I ended up paying my tile setters to fix their mistakes.

For my own personal bathroom, I’m planning on trying some of the Schluter materials instead of the cement board. In fact I’ll be taking a two day class in a few weeks to learn proper installation techniques.

Beautiful marble outlined black white hex tiles in master bathroom

Once the tile floor went in, and the walls were painted Wedding Band gray from Magnolia Home paint, we were able to move the vanity and the toilet into the bathroom so the wood flooring could be installed in the rest of the house.

The Master Bathroom Reveal:

Ready to see the final reveal of the master bathroom? I can’t wait for you to see this! The style I steered toward in this small 5′ x 8′ bathroom is modern farmhouse.

I kept the elements clean, but also timeless. The rainfall shower head (with exterior mounted plumbing) appealed to my sense of a classic look.

The exhaust fan looks underwhelming, but let me tell you, it ROCKS! Really!

Inside the fan is a bluetooth speaker from Nutone. All you have to do is pair up your bluetooth device with the fan and you can rock out to tunes in the shower. My only complaint is the speaker won’t work when the fan switch is turned off. But, luckily the fan is ultra quiet.

Okay,  I know, the shower niche tile is a real show stopper. It’s from Best Tile, but I’ll have to find out what it’s called.

Even though I added a shower niche, I insisted on putting in a soap tray in the corner.

Now for the other tile choices that will knock your socks off. The floor has a beautiful marble hex tile from The Builder Depot.

This tile is most likely coming into my house! Although, I may look at the honed version of the same flooring.

The black and white tile theme continues into the shower floor. I couldn’t resist these 2″ black marble hex tiles for the shower floor.

I’m sure you spotted the drain cover. How could you miss this fun fixture in the shower?

This is a custom brass drain cover from Designer Drains.

Ignore the silver screws, later I swapped them out for the correct brass ones.

Let’s talk about the vanity. I love the look. The vanity has one operational drawer with a plumbing cut out to avoid the p-trap.

The drawer is perfect for storing things out of site. The bottom shelf allows the homeowners to add baskets and towels for more storage.

But, here’s what I don’t like about the vanity. To be completely honest, it was super lightweight (think balsa wood) and cost way too much for the materials to be so lightweight. I was really angry I paid so much for it, especially because I could have made it myself a lot better quality. Once the quartz countertop was installed, it weighs down the vanity, so it doesn’t feel so lightweight. If you like the look and want this vanity for your home here’s a link.

If I had the time I could have built a better vanity. This is definitely something I will do for my own bathroom.

Once the sink and countertop were in, the vanity felt more substantial. And I do love that countertop! I used the same marble look-a-like quartz countertop as was used in the kitchen.

The last thing I want to show you in the master bathroom is the privacy film I added to the Plygem Mira window. It’s a product from Stick Pretty and I love how it lets light in but not the view of nude bathers.

I’ll be sharing the tutorial for installing the privacy film soon. It came out great!

What do you think? Do you love the master bathroom at the Saving Etta house?


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Wall color: Wedding Band by Magnolia Home Paint

Floor Tile: Carrara Venato Polished Hexagon Nero Strip Marble Mosaic Tile by The Builder Depot

Shower Floor Tile Nero Marquina Polished Black Marble 2″ Hexagon Mosaic by the Builder Depot

Octopus Drain Cover by Designer Drains

Shower Wall Tile: White Subway Tiles by Jeffrey Court Tiles

Hanging Cone Pendant Lights from

Bath Exhaust Fan from Nutone

Sensonic Bath Fan Speaker Accessory from Nutone

Rainfall Shower Faucet Set from Rozin

48″ Farmhouse Vanity

More Saving Etta Fixture Sources Available Here

Disclosure: I received materials and/or compensation from the sponsors of the Saving Etta project. These were the bathroom sponsors: Ask for Purple, Plygem, Broan-Nutone, Schlage, Magnolia Home Paint, KILZ, Jeffrey Court Tile, Wilkinson, Designer Drains, The Builder Depot. I was not told what to write. All opinions and words are my own. As always, I will notify you if you are reading as sponsored post or if I was compensated. Rest assured I am very particular about the brands I work with. Only brands I use in my own home or that I’ve had a positive experience with will be showcased on this blog.

Saving Etta: Revealing the Downstairs Bedrooms

I’m thrilled to be able to reveal the downstairs bedrooms to you today. If there were two rooms that get me emotional in the Saving Etta house, it would be these two front bedrooms. They make up the majority of the 1900 portion of the house I was able to save. Except for the original kitchen, all the other rooms in the house were added on over the years. Unfortunately those additions weren’t built to last (or built with any building codes in mind.) Although we tried to save the original kitchen, one of the girders was completely rotted out and the rest of the floor joists were almost laying on the dirt. We determined it would be best to remove it and build completely new framing behind those front bedrooms.

Here is the proposed floor plan where I’ve highlighted the bedrooms you’re touring today:

Before we get this show on the road, I owe a huge thank you and a big shout out to all the Saving Etta sponsors. As you all know, I’m very particular about the brands I work with and I can honestly say my sponsors are the cream of the crop when it comes to selling products for your home and lifestyle.

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Before Starting Demolition:

Before we get to the tour, I’m going to rewind the clock to show you how the rooms looked when I bought the house.

These photos are from the south bedroom (on the right when you enter from the front porch steps.)

The original mantel was still in the room. Although there was no hearth, I’m fortunate the mantel was left alone. Unfortunately the original door was replaced with a cheap hollow core door.

This room was a living room and had carpeting throughout. The moldings on the windows had some decorative trim, but otherwise the room was fairly devoid of architectural features.

The north bedroom had an identical mantel, but this room also had two closets. I think this room was used as a bedroom in recent years. But I’m not 100% sure because most of the contents had been removed because of the presence of black mold growing in here.

At first I thought the mold was caused by a roof leak, but I later learned it could be attributed to the window air conditioner unit. The moisture had been leaking down the wall and under the carpet, creating a toxic growth of black mold.

Despite this unwanted presence in the room, there was a very desirable element still in this room! See that closet door below? In the corner of the room I found one of the original 1900 doors. Luckily I also found another door to match in another local property that was slated to be completed demolished.

Demolition Begins:

After carefully removing all the carpeting from the front bedrooms, I began to pull up the particle board subfloor. It was tedious work involving a pry bar and a hammer to pull up all the nails from each board. Contrary to my initial thoughts, the particle board would only pry up in fist size pieces when I put a flat scraper underneath. Instead I had to remove ALL the nails first. Underneath a layer of resin paper, I found the old pine floor planks. I was really excited about the prospect of being able to refinish these original wood floors.

My optimism began to wane as I pulled up the sub-flooring in the south bedroom. Underneath it were several layers of vinyl, tar paper, and glued down lineoleum sheets. (Of course before pulling up these layers, I dutifully sent samples to be tested for asbestos.) When the results came back negative, I spent three days trying to get all the layers removed. But, I lost steam and this is where I stopped:

I was going to rent a floor scraper, but decided to wait for the mold remediation team to demo and clear the black mold from the north bedroom. After remediation, the full extent of the damage to the wood floor was revealed. There were many spots where the floor had rotted after being exposed to too much moisture. I also discovered patched areas using sheets of plywood in the foyer and the north bedroom.

After another trip into the crawlspace, I realized there was no subfloor under the pine planks. They were laid directly onto the joists. After wracking my brain trying to figure out how to salvage the old pine flooring (and how to find matching planks to fill in the holes), I realized my dream of restoring those original floors would be nearly impossible. Sadly, I decided to move forward and save time by putting in new flooring when the time came.

Post Asbestos Abatement:

As if that wasn’t enough of a hit to my budget, I had to test the sheet rock before demolition continued. Consequently we found asbestos in the joint compound. I quickly scheduled the asbestos abatement team (a company I had used in the past) to strip the drywall from the house. After a few days of abatement, I was finally allowed to enter the property and was greeted by this sight.

This is a view of the north bedroom (the one that previously had black mold.)

Across the hall in the south bedroom I was met with this amazing sight:

Vintage wallpaper was everywhere and it was exciting to see the little surprises hiding behind the drywall. Notice the two additional layers of wallpaper beneath the pastoral scene:

Besides the wallpaper, what made my mouth fall open was the view of the original ten foot ceilings! At some point in time the ceiling had been lowered to eight feet (most likely to make the space easier to heat).

Demo Help from Friends:

Pretty Handsome Guy, my friend Sarah, and I worked on removing the lathe to get down to the studs in the south side bedroom.

I can’t even begin to explain how sweaty, messy, and dirty this job was. The demolition required respirators and goggles. Regular dust masks were not enough protection.

Finally the entire south room was stripped down to the studs and all the lathe was thrown into the back of the house, while the insulation was shoveled into giant garbage bags. The view below is looking toward the foyer and into the north side bedroom.

You can see the big pile of lathe in the back room. During the removal of the additions, the excavator scooped it up and dropped it into the dumpster like they were a small pile of pick up sticks.

Completing Demolition:

To be completely truthful, after completing demo on the south bedroom, I had no desire to go through the same dirty demo labor in the north room. I asked my demo contractor to include that task in his bid. His guys breezed through the demo in record time. Sometimes it’s better to pay the professionals.

Below is the view from the north bedroom. The front door can be seen on the right.

This is all that was left of the house after demolition and removal of all those poorly built additions. Shortly after this photo was taken we had a big storm roll through Raleigh. I was terrified I’d find the house blown over when I made it back downtown the next day. But, this old gal was one tough old house.

Flooring Old to New:

While the footers were being dug, I set out on an excursion to find new flooring to replace the old. I was determined to find solid wood flooring with an aged appearance.

Luckily my friends at Impressions Hardwood Collection helped me find flooring perfect for a historic house. You won’t believe how good they look in the downstairs bedrooms!

With everything stripped down, it was time to rebuild. You can see the Saving Etta framing process here and a photo of the north bedroom during drywall here.

Downtairs Bedrooms Reveal:

The two downstairs bedrooms are exactly the same size as when the house was built. The walls and doorways were put back exactly where they were in 1900.

The only change was adding closets to each room to make them more functional as bedrooms.

Speaking of closets, you have to get a closer look of the beautiful door knobs and paint color.

The knobs are by Schlage and are the Hobson series glass knobs with Century backplates. I fell head over heels in love with these knobs and wish I could replace all the door knobs in my house with them.

The closet doors (and all new doors in the house) were painted Cupola by Magnolia Home paint.

You’ll notice the bedroom doors were left wood. After stripping the many layers of paint off them, I couldn’t bring myself to cover up the old growth wood grain and square peg construction. I felt their beauty needed to be appreciated and serve as a conversation starter for guests.

Hopefully a future homeowner won’t be tempted to paint them. ;-(

Because, then you wouldn’t see the beautiful square peg construction:

Isn’t it amazing how those Schlage glass knobs look beautiful on both natural wood and painted doors?

Speaking of amazing, let’s talk about attractive ceiling fans. If you live in the south, you know ceiling fans are non-negotiable. It’s important to have them for comfort. For years I was resigned to the fact that ceiling fans were utilitarian and therefore not stylish. (Or the stylish fans I found were too expensive for my budget.) Alas, that was before I discovered Fanimation’s ceiling fans.  The fans I selected for the downstairs bedrooms are the Distinction Fan with mix and match blades and light kits.

The white blades are a trick I use to help the fan disappear against the white ceiling. A schoolhouse glass light kit offers a subtle vintage appearance.

The north bedroom was staged an office, and as you can tell, the same Fanimation Distinction fan is right at home with modern decor.

When the fan is turned on, the blades virtually disappear:

Let’s talk about the other finishes in the bedrooms. You probably can’t take your eyes off the beautiful wood floors, right?! They are from the Impressions Hardwood Collection, Elegance Series in Flint stain color. The Elegance series is a pre-finished hardwood floor with a low luster top coat. It receives a wire brushing to bring out the grain in the wood, giving it an aged and antique look. Well, what do you think? Is the Elegance Series flooring a good solution for not being able to save the original?

One of the other original features I couldn’t save were the windows. They had no weights in them, and several of the panes had been repaired with plexiglass. Plus, I needed to block some of the sound from the street. Instead, I worked with the folks at Plygem to select windows that fit with the style of this historic house. These are Plygem Mira windows with a black frame interior and white exterior. What makes them so beautiful is the simulated divided light grilles. You’d have to get super close to see the grilles are on the outside of the glass, but there is a divider in between the energy efficient panes of glass.

Plygem Mira Simulated divided light windows

Best of all, they help block outdoor street noises. I chose double hung windows. Want to know why? Double hung means the upper and lower sashes move independently. Did you know if you lower the top sash and raise the bottom window, hot air will flow out the top and cool air rushes into the room from the bottom. It’s a natural way to cool a room in the summer!

Can we all agree, these rooms are the heart of the Saving Etta house?

What do you think? Do you like the flooring I chose?

What about those natural wood doors? Would you paint them? I hope not. Let me know if you have any questions in the comment section.

Disclosure: Impressions Hardwood Collection, Schlage, Fanimaton, Magnolia Home Paint and Plygem were all sponsors of the Saving Etta project. I was provided with complimentary products to use in the Saving Etta house. I was not told what to write or say about the products. 

How to Build Reclaimed Wood Barn Door

Earlier this week when I showed you the master bedroom in the Saving Etta house, you probably noticed the sliding barn door. I am in love with that door and especially excited that I was able to salvage the old beadboard and repurpose it as cladding on the barn door. Now it’s time to show you How to Build a Reclaimed Wood Sliding Barn Door. Let’s get building!

Notes about Materials:

To build your custom barn door you’re going to need to purchase a 4×8 sheet of plywood. The plywood will offer strength and rigidity and will add some thickness to the barn door. You don’t need to buy the finish grade plywood, instead purchase the cheapest plywood you can find because it will be covered up. One side will get a sheet of masonite bead board, and the other will be clad with the reclaimed lumber. And the sides will get trimmed out to hide the layers. So, as long as your plywood isn’t warped, it won’t matter how it looks. For my door I used 3/4″ plywood, but it was heavy. You may want to use 1/2″ plywood instead, but be sure to check the thickness requirements for your barn door track and hardware. This will ultimately dictate your width and weight!

Stripping Paint and Lead Paint Warning:

When you are using reclaimed wood, always test any paint with an instant lead check swab. Or treat it like it is lead paint. Because of the age of the bead board, I’m pretty sure my wood had lead paint. Before stripping lead paint, you definitely need to wear a dust mask or respirator and gloves. Eye protection is a good idea. And since my HEPA vacuum is loud, I wear hearing protection too.

Put down a plastic sheet under your work area and onto the floor. Make sure the sheet extends enough in each direction to catch any wayward paint chips.

The one thing you never want to do with lead paint is create airborne particles. This means you never want to dry sand it or use power tools to remove the paint. In the video, I’ll show you how I prefer to remove lead paint. In the past, I have used a chemical stripper like CitriStrip (although, the CitriStrip has a lot fewer chemicals than other strippers, it still makes a gooey mess). Instead, I found this ProScraper tool on Amazon and thanks to the recommendation of my friend at The Craftsman’s Blog, this is my new go to tool for paint stripping.

To use the ProScraper, clamp your wood to the table top. Use the ProScraper tool attached to a HEPA vacuum hose. While the vacuum is on, use firm pressure and pull the ProScraper towards you. It will take several passes to remove all the paint. Especially if your wood is old like mine and has over 100 years of paint layers on it.

After you finish scraping, be sure to vacuum up any paint chips and dust around your work area. Use a disposable damp rag to clean off the wood and remove any remaining dust.

When you are finished, place the damp rag and any other disposables into the center of the plastic sheet. Carefully gather the plastic sheet in towards its center. Deposit the plastic sheet and trash in a sealed plastic trash bag. Clean your work area to remove any remaining paint dust.

Tools & Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

In case you are curious, these are the other tools in my workshop

Video Tutorial:

Feel free to watch the full tutorial for making this reclaimed wood barn door below in the video tutorial.

Don’t forget to subscribe to my YouTube Channel for more DIY video tutorials and tips.

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel

Time to cut your materials. Measure and mark the size of your door on the plywood and masonite beadboard sheet. (Be sure to add two inches to your door opening so the barn door will cover the opening.)

measure and mark on plywood for door size

mark size of door on masonite bead board

Cut your wood with a circular saw, or if you have one, use a track saw! I’ve found this battery-powered track saw by DeWalt to be invaluable for cutting down large sheets. Because it runs on batteries I can even bring it with me to the store and cut the materials in the parking lot if necessary!

using DeWalt battery-powered track saw to cut plywood

The hanging hardware for my barn door has a small bar that mounts on the floor. I needed to cut a groove into the bottom of my door to accept the bar and keep it from swinging back and forth when opening or closing.

use Dremel Saw Max to cut groove in bottom of barn door

Add a fair amount of construction adhesive to one side of your plywood door. Then lay the masonite beadboard sheet onto the plywood and press firmly into the glue. Drive a few brad nails into the masonite to keep it in place as the glue cures.

lay bead board on top of plywood

Flip your door over and start laying out the border design. Did you know these are the back sides of the beadboard? So pretty!

dry fit border on barn door

Apply construction adhesive under the border pieces and set them in place. Then add some brad nails to hold it until the glue cures.

nail border pieces in place on reclaimed wood barn door

I decided to sand the border pieces to remove any rough edges and splinters, but made sure not to sand too much or I’d lose the dark weathered look.

To cut the interior beadboard pieces, cut one end of the boards at a 45˚ angle. Then set them into the border frame. Using a ruler and pencil, mark where to cut the other side.

cutting bead board to fit in border on door

Test the fit of your bead board. Continue marking and cutting all the bead board pieces. Make sure they all fit before moving on.

almost all bead board pieces dry fit in reclaimed wood door border

Secure all the interior pieces with construction adhesive and brad nails. You might find your last piece isn’t as wide as your boards, cut this piece on a band saw or jig saw if necessary and fit in place.

To hide the plywood, rip pieces of bead board or use flat trim to finish the edges of your door.

nailing trim on door sides

Use a polycrylic or water-based top coat to seal the door (and prevent exposure to any lead paint left on the door). I prefer the General Finishes High Performance Flat top coat. What I like about it is it has no sheen. The top coat protects the wood while letting the beauty of the grain show, and there’s no shine to detract from the wood.

And now onto the reveal!

I purchased the Barn Door Hardware and Barn Door Handle from Amazon and was very happy with the quality.

What do you think? Do you like how I reused the beadboard? I hope the door lives for decades in the Saving Etta home.

Saving Etta: Master Bedroom Reveal

I’m so happy with how the Saving Etta Master Bedroom looks and can’t wait to show you the reveal. As you can probably tell, I took a bit of a risk with the paint color in this room and I’m so glad I did. Before I invite you all the way into this cozy and luxurious bedroom, I’d like to thank the sponsors of the Saving Etta project for helping make this 1900 dilapidated house into a beautiful home sure to be cherished for another 100 years or more.

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

A Look Back:

The master bedroom has come a long way since I bought the house in June of 2017. Let’s take a look at the master bedroom in the Saving Etta house shortly after I purchased it.

This room had a small closet and a door leading to the only bathroom in the house. What you can’t see is the floor was sloping at least two inches from one end to the other.

Swapping Rooms:

The master bedroom was moved from one side of the back of the house to the other. This made room for a large open concept living room and kitchen.

Sound Reduction:

You may have noticed the master bedroom is on the other side of the wall from the living room. I knew this would be the ideal area for the TV. A tall vaulted ceiling meant lots of noise echoing around the living room.

To combat any potential marital spats over one spouse watching late night TV while the other tries to sleep, I chose to add SoundBreak drywall by AskforPurple.

soundbreak purple drywall

You can read more about this amazing noise reducing drywall and how I added sound proofing between the rooms.

three guys installing purple drywall

The Reveal:

Ready to see the reveal of this beautiful master bedroom?

A big shout out to Minted Spaces for doing a phenomenal job on the staging! I found them on Instagram and am so glad I paid for them to come stage the house. They made this home look so cozy and stylish.

Did you see happen to catch the Leviton USB charging plug above? Now you can free up outlets for electronics while still charing your devices. Learn how to install your own USB charging outlets in this tutorial I wrote for you.

Looking around the room, it’s hard to avoid the wood mantel and faux chalkboard fireplace.

As you probably guessed, the mantel is original to the house. It’s one of two from the original 1900 portion of the house. I carefully removed both of them from the house before demolition.

Then I had them dipped and stripped to remove the lead paint.

After mounting the mantel to the wall, I painted the inside with black chalkboard paint and drew a faux fireplace with chalk.

Even though it’s not a working fireplace, it still creates a cozy feeling in this master bedroom.

Speaking of cozy, I decided to paint the master bedroom a moody dark color to make the room feel warm and enveloping. Hopefully this room is exactly what the homeowners will crave at the end of a long day. The color I chose is Duke Gray by Magnolia Home. My painters loved this paint because it has great coverage (and that’s important especially when painting a dark color.)

Duke Gray is a muted blue-green color and it works well with all colors. The homeowners should be able to accessorize with some colorful accent colors if they want.

Solid Wood Floors:

I’m sure you can’t help notice the star of this room, those gorgeous solid wood floors from the Impressions Hardwood Collection.

When I found out I couldn’t save the original wood flooring in the house, I went on the hunt for wood floors that looked aged and wouldn’t stick out as brand new.

The Impressions Hardwood Collection offered a lot of options to choose from. It was hard to decide, until…

…I laid the old flooring on top of these two samples.

Both were from the Elegance Series by Impressions Hardwood Collection. The lighter color is called Wheat and the darker stain is called Flint. They both look similar to the original flooring, but I felt the Flint had a more aged appearance. I also liked the matte wire-brushed finish. The Elegance series floors have all the advantages of solid wood flooring, without the look of a glossy shiny new floor.

And the wide planks offer a classic look that’s sure to look great over the years (even when they start to show signs of distressing and age like the original floors had.)

Salvaged Beauty:

Speaking of age, you’re going to love the way I reused the original bead board salvaged from the walls of the house before demolition.

pretty handy girl sledgehammer exposed bead board

Can you spot the reclaimed bead board below?

How about now? I built a custom sliding barn door for the master closet and used the bead board.

Each piece of bead board was stripped of its paint (most likely lead paint) using this pro-scraper tool hooked up to a HEPA vacuum. Then I sealed the door with General Finishes High Performance Flat Top Coat for a matte finish that seals in the paint and shows off the beautiful wood grain.

The sliding barn door track and door handle are from Amazon.

Back in the bedroom, I encourage you to take a look up at the ceiling.

That sexy modern ceiling fan is from Fanimation and is the Zonix Wet indoor or outdoor fan. I chose the Matte Greige color finish and think they look great with the black trim and dark walls. The fan is easily controlled by a remote control or a wall switch.

Right outside the master bedroom is an extra little surprise. All you have to do is slide open the beautiful Plygem Mira sliding patio door and step outside?

Can you see it?

Just outside the sliding door is a small extension of the deck.

It’s the perfect spot to sit and have coffee in the morning.

Or enjoy this view all day long! Want to see more of the backyard transformation? You can see all the work we did to transform it in this blog post.

after view of landscaped saving etta yard

I hope you enjoyed the tour of the master bedroom. What did you think about the dark wall color? Did you love it or not your cup of tea? Stay tuned! I’ll have more reveals for you soon!

Disclosure: Impressions Hardwood Collection, Fanimaton, Leviton, Magnolia Home Paint and AskforPurple were all sponsors of the Saving Etta project. I was provided with complimentary products to use in the Saving Etta house. I was not told what to write or say about the products.