Want to make a quick and easy fall centerpiece? Maybe you want to get the kids involved and go on a nature hike to collect pretty leaves.

Quick Fall Leaves Centerpiece

Quick Fall Leaves Centerpiece

I’m looking forward to cooler weather and the beautiful color of fallen autumn leaves. How about you? Today I have a super quick and easy fall leaves centerpiece you can whip up to decorate your home for autumn. Seriously, this will take five minutes (plus a nice walk outside to gather leaves.)

Granted, our leaves haven’t turned yet, but you know I’m anxiously awaiting them!

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Optional: You can use a drinking glass or candy jar and use foil to raise it higher.

Instructions:

Go out for a hike and collect colorful fall leaves. I was lucky to find these buttery-yellow gingko leaves.

And around the corner, a beautiful pile of Japanese maple leaves were ready for me to scoop up.

Center the smaller vase inside the larger one. Begin filling the space between the two vases with leaves.

Continue adding leaves until the interior glass vase is hidden.

Insert battery-powered candle into center vase. (If using a real candle, do not leave it unattended, and make sure your leaves are not super dry.

Turn on the candle and enjoy the glow.

You can make another quick and easy fall vase by cutting the sleeve off an old sweater and wrap it around another vase or votive holder. Insert another battery-powered pillar candle and set it out with your Quick Fall Leaves Centerpiece!

fall leaves lantern

Set out your beautiful fall centerpieces and get ready for the cozy time inside on cold nights.

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Anyone else looking forward to cool weather, hot chocolate, and curling up under the blankets to watch movies?

Let’s add a little hand-lettered touch to your front door with this adorable wooden fall pumpkin sign that you can make in no time!

How to Make a Hand-Lettered Fall Pumpkin Sign

Hi, it’s Amanda from Domestically Creative again with another easy DIY project. Today I’m sharing how I made this adorable hand-lettered pumpkin sign that hangs on our front door for fall. Don’t let all of the steps and photos scare you away from making your own fall pumpkin sign! This project is very simple and only took me about 15 minutes to make. Heat up your glue gun and let’s get started!

Overhead view of supplies

Materials:

Instructions:

Step 1 – Create the design

The first step is to create a hand-lettered design for this fall pumpkin sign. You can create it in one of two ways. If you feel confident enough to hand-letter your own design, draw it out on a sheet of paper to the same size it will be on the pumpkin. If you are doubting your artistic lettering skills, create a digital design using fonts on your computer and print it out to the right size. Either way will work for this simple fall door decor.

"hello fall" hand-lettered design

Step 2 – Transfer the design

Turn the paper over and shade over the back with a pencil. Aim for dark and full coverage so that the graphite can transfer in the next step.

shading over back of design with pencil

Flip the paper back over and place it on top of the wooden pumpkin. Using a pencil, trace over the design using firm pressure. This will transfer the design onto your pumpkin!

tracing over design with pencil to transfer onto pumpkin

When you pull up the paper, you should be left with a light pencil outline of your design.

close up of transferred "hello fall" design on pumpkin

This is the same method used in this reversible pedestal sign!

Step 3 – Paint on the design

Using an oil-based paint marker, go over the design, and fill in any necessary areas. Since this fall pumpkin sign will be hanging on the front door, using oil-based paint will protect it from fading or running.

white wooden pumpkin with hello fall written on it

Step 4 – Make the bow

Tie a simple two-loop bow with a wired edge ribbon, just like tying your shoes! Fluff up the loops and center knot of the bow until it looks nice and full.

buffalo check bow next to pumpkin sign

Optional Step: Fold the tails of the bow in half length-wise. Use scissors to cut out a triangle from the wired edge at the bottom of the tail.

Step 5 – Attach the bow

Attach your bow to the pumpkin with some hot glue. Another option is to use a thin gauge wire and wrap that around the stem of the pumpkin. Either way will work!

Step 6 – Attach a ribbon for hanging

Since this fall pumpkin sign will be hanging on the front door, I added a small ribbon to the back of it using a staple gun. First, cut a piece of ribbon slightly longer than the width of your pumpkin.

staple gun attaching ribbon to hang pumpkin sign

Then staple one end of the ribbon to just inside the left edge of the pumpkin. Repeat this for the other side and end of the ribbon. You will be left with a loop in the middle to hang your new pumpkin sign from.

Overview of stapled on ribbon to the back of wooden pumpkin

Step 7 – Hang on the front door

You’re finished! Hang up your new fall pumpkin sign on the front door (or any place in your home) and enjoy!

Finished hello fall pumpkin sign with buffalo check ribbon hanging on blue front door

What design will you put on your own hand-lettered fall pumpkin sign?

Love it? Don’t forget to pin this project for later!

I’m Amanda, and I am the creator and voice behind the food and DIY blog, Domestically Creative. What started as a place to share updates with friends and family after we moved from Illinois to Tennessee and then to Texas, turned into a passion for finding creative and frugal ways to feed us and decorate our homes.

I have always had the “make it myself” attitude and I’m not afraid to bust out the power tools or get creative when it comes to decorating our home on a budget. You can usually find me scouring the local thrift stores, garage sales and estate sales looking for my next makeover (like this litter box cabinet), or dreaming up ways to make our new house feel more like home. My most recent project was giving my home office a much needed facelift. Some of the plans included creating a fun inspirational accent wall and adding pegboard to store my craft hoards.

I currently call Missouri home, where I live with my husband, dog, and 2 cats in a pretty dull, late 90’s split level. My husband and I both love to travel the U.S and recently purchased a small travel trailer to tag along in our journeys. In our free time together we can usually be found working together on a home project, exploring a new place, or just lounging with our pup, Delilah.

I’d love for you to connect with me on social media via Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Twitter!

See all of Amanda’s tutorials HERE.

Have the kids taken over your kitchen table or island? Need somewhere to let the kids get creative? Today I am going to show you how to make a simple DIY kid’s craft table (or desk). Let’s get building.

Build a DIY Kid's Craft Table

DIY Kid’s Desk and Craft Table

If your children are going to be home this fall for distance learning or you just want a spot they can call their own, then it is time to get a space ready for them!! This DIY Kid’s Craft Table is the perfect size for whatever your child will need and it is small enough to fit in a spare corner in your home. Let’s make it!

I made this particular table for a client and it measures 30”h x 43”w x 23”d but you can modify these measurements to fit your needs. Of course, the quality of lumber you use is your choice but I used clear pine from my local big box store because it paints better than using common pine boards. It may be more expensive but the boards tend to be straighter, it saves time on sanding, and I feel it yields a better-finished product. It doesn’t matter what wood you use as long as you love it.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Tools:

Cut list and pocket-hole placement:

  • 4- 2×2 @ 29 ¼”
  • 2- 1×4 @ 38” (3 pocket-holes in each end)
  • 2- 1×4 @ 18” (2 pocket-holes in each end)
  • 1- 1×4 @ 19” (2 pocket-holes in each end)
  • 3/4”x 43”x 23” birch plywood

Step 1: Sand table components

  • I know it seems odd to start with this step but trust me when I tell you it is much easier to sand these boards before they are in place. Depending on how rough your lumber is, begin using 60-80 grit sandpaper and incrementally work your way up to 220 grit sandpaper.  I chose to use clear pine found at my local big box store so I was able to start with 120 grit sandpaper, which cut down my sanding time. This makes the extra money spent, well worth it!

Step 2: Assemble both table sides

  • Sandwich one 1 x 4 x 18” (apron) board between two 2 x 2 x 29 ¼” (leg) boards. Pocket-holes should be facing up.
  • To add a little detail, place a ¼” piece of scrap beneath the 1×4 board to inset it slightly. This will create a shallow reveal looks nice and also gives you a little grace because now the three boards don’t have to be flush to the same surface perfectly.
  • Clamp the legs and apron boards together and join them using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.
  • Repeat these steps for the other side of the table.

Step 3: Attach the front and back table aprons

  • With both side components standing on their sides sandwich a 1 x 4 x 38” (apron) board between them, again placing a ¼” board beneath the apron to inset it slightly.
  • Align the top of the 1×4 with the top of the side components.
  • Clamp and attach using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.
  • Carefully flip the piece over and repeat the above steps to attach the second 1 x 4 x 38” apron board.

Step 4: Attach center support

  • Attach the center support using wood glue and pocket screws between the two 1 x 4 x 38” boards centered in the middle.

Step 5: Clean up

  • With a putty knife or chisel gently remove any glue squeeze out and sand smooth.

Step 6: Edge banding

  • Once the plywood top is cut to size you will need to edge band to cover up the unsightly edges. I won’t go over all of the steps here but if you are new to edge banding please check out this tutorial on How to Finish Raw Plywood Edges.

 

Step 7: Finish

  • Time to paint or stain and topcoat!! My client wanted this piece painted white, so I chose a premium latex paint and used a water-based topcoat to protect the paint and prevent yellowing of the finish in the future.

Step 8: Attach the top

  • Place the tabletop on a flat surface (bottom side up) and center the base over the top upside down.
  • This plan allows for a 1” overhang of the top on all sides of the table base.
  • Using the pocket-holes that are shown in the diagrams below, attach the top with 1 ¼” pocket screws.

    • Note: Normally I would not recommend attaching a tabletop using pocket screws IF that top were made of solid wood because of wood’s tendency to expand and contract. However, this top is made of plywood and the amount of expansion and contraction that will happen over time is negligible and should not affect the structure of the table base.  If you are uncomfortable using pocket-holes to attach the top then feel free to attach it in some other way, such as with figure-8 fasteners or Z-clips.

Flip it over and admire your handy work!! Isn’t this DIY Kid’s Craft Table adorable?!

Check out my latest blog post about building a DIY Folding Craft/Sewing Table! This table is large enough for any craft project but folds down when you don’t need it. Perfect for anyone with a small space but large crafting ambitions!

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom, and registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture, and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the items we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips, and tricks.

 

I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on PinterestInstagram, and Facebook to see what I am working on right now.

 

If you enjoyed this tutorial and are looking for other cute ideas for kid’s desk or craft table check out these two fun projects. Both of these could be great projects you could do with the kids to keep the fun going.

Creative Block Desk & Art Utensil Holder

create_art_block_holders_sm

Creating a Chalkboard Desktop.

How to Make a Chalkboard Surface Desk | Pretty Handy Girl

Modern wreaths are beautiful and simple in nature. Learn how to make your own DIY modern floral wreath and let me share how I saved money on flowers!

DIY Modern Floral WreathDIY Modern Floral Wreath

Originally I wanted this to be a spring wreath, but well…it’s summer now isn’t it? But, this wreath can still rock the spring and summer look.

I found this flower garland on clearance and decided it would be a more cost effective than buying lots of floral stems.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Instructions:

Watch the video to make your own DIY Modern Floral Wreath or scroll down for the step-by-step instructions.

 

Gather your supplies (listed above.)

Use good wire cutting pliers to remove the flowers you want to use from a garland (or clip off the stems from your flowers.) Lay your ring on your work surface.

Layout some greenery as a base for the shape of your wreath.

Then fill with large and medium-size flowers.

Arrange and tuck in some smaller flowers to fill out the wreath.

To attach the flowers to the wreath use floral wire. You will probably want to wear garden gloves for this. I started out without the gloves and ended up drawing blood unnecessarily (live and learn, right?)

Twist the floral wire around each stem until it’s secured. Continue attaching flowers to the ring until all the flowers are secured.

You can use a ribbon to hang your wreath, but I like to use fishing line for a less frilly appearance.

modern floral hoop wreath

Hang your wreath on the door, a wall, or anywhere you need to bring some Spring or Summer cheer!

modern floral wreath

Did you like this simple wreath? If so, you’ll love Karen’s Simple Fall Wreath. It’s so simple to make, you can create one for every season!

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diy beverage center housing mini fridge

It’s 5 o’clock somewhere! Whether it’s 5 am or 5 pm this DIY Beverage Center will hold whatever it is that gets you going in the morning and winds you down in the evening.

DIY Beverage Center

DIY Beverage Center

Hi there! This is Kristen from In Her Garage and I am going to teach you how to build a DIY beverage center for your home. I have built a couple of these and each client who received this beverage center loves to tell me how appreciative they are to have a separate space to hold their coffee supplies and adult beverages. Plus, a beverage center freed up space needed in their kitchen refrigerator.

This beverage center measures approximately 40”h x 38 ½”w x 24 ½”d and I built it to house the Whirlpool JC 103EZY Mini-fridge that a client had purchased. Feel free to modify the dimensions for the mini-fridge of your choice, just keep in mind there should be an allowance on the sides and top for proper airflow around the fridge (usually specified in the owner’s manual). This particular mini-fridge requires 2” on both sides and top.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Tools:

Board Cuts:

  • 2- 2×3 @ 36″
  • 3- 2×3 @ 20¼”
  • 2- 1×2 @ 39 ¼”
  • 1- 1×2 @ 34 ¼”
  • 1- 1×2 @ 34 ½”
  • 1- 1×4 @ 34 ½”
  • 2- 1×2 @ 23″ – drill two pocket hole’s in both ends
  • 2- 1×2 @ 12 ¼” – drill two pocket hole’s in both ends

Cut list and corresponding pocket-hole placement:

To make plywood cuts easier while using a circular saw please check out my tutorial for creating your own DIY Track Saw Jig for your circular saw. It will make cutting plywood simple and foolproof!

Instructions:

Step 1: Create the beverage center base

  • First, build a base frame using the cut 2×3 studs, wood glue, and 2 ½” wood screws. Pre-drill your holes to prevent splitting.

  • Next, Secure the bottom plywood panel on top of the base frame and secure it with wood glue and brad nails

Step 2: Attach beverage center sides

  • On a flat surface, stand both sides on their backs with the pocket-holes pointing to the ceiling.
  • Apply glue to the sides of the beverage center base and stand it on its back.
  • Sandwich the base between the two sides aligning the bottoms and fronts of the sides and base.  If you have clamps use them to squeeze the sides to the base or have someone help hold them in place until they are secured.
  • Now pre-drill three holes in each side, drilling from the inside of the base frame 2×3 out into the sides, and attach using 2″ screws.
  • Stand the piece up

Step 3: Attach center divider

  • Grab both 1 x 2 x 23″ support boards and use those as spacers for the center divider.
  • Place a small bead of glue along the bottom of the center divider panel (the short edge with pocket-holes) and place it over the base spaced by the 1×2 boards. Be sure that the long edge with the pocket-holes is facing the front just like the pocket-holes on the sides.
  • Attach the center divider with 1 ¼” Kreg pocket screws

Step 4: Attach the top spacer supports

  • Using the same two 1 x 2 x 23″ support boards you used to space the center divider and 1 ¼” pocket screws, attach the boards to the front and back of the side and center divider at the top of the panels to create even spacing.
  • Repeat with the 1 x 2 x 12 ¼” boards spacing between the center divider and the opposite side.

Step 5: Build the Face Frame

  • If you haven’t cut the boards for the face frame yet do that now according to the cut list or the diagram below.
  • Refer to the diagram below for pocket-hole placement.
  • Use wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws to attach the face frame pieces as depicted.

Step 6: Attach the face frame to the beverage center box and plug pocket-holes

  • Attach using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws aligning the sides, top, and bottom. You can either lay the carcass on its back or clamp the face frame to the carcass while it is standing up.
  • If you choose to plug the pocket-holes do that now. You will only need to plug the pocket-holes in the refrigerator compartment of the beverage center because the other pocket-holes won’t be visible within the drawer compartment.

Step 7: Attach drawer slides

  • I used eight 1 x 2 x 23” strips of plywood to create runners to attach the drawer slides to.  To evenly space each runner vertically I use a couple of pieces of scrap cut to the same height. When the runner is spaced and level, attach it using glue and brad nails.
  • Now attach your drawer slides to these runners keeping the front of the drawer slide just behind the face frame.
  • This step can be done in a couple of ways and most people have their preference for installing drawers and drawer slides but this is my method.

Step 8: Build the drawer boxes and apply drawer slides

  • There are several different ways to build drawer boxes and you will need to decide on dimensions based on the drawer slides that you’ve chosen to use. I have provided a diagram for a simple method of building drawer boxes. (Or you can follow this tutorial for building drawers.)

  • If you choose to add edge banding to the top edge of your drawer boxes I recommend doing this after the box components are cut but before assembly to make the process easier.  New to edge banding? Pop over to see a tutorial on finishing raw plywood edges.
  • After the drawer boxes are built apply the drawer slides to the boxes and slide into place to check for fit. Make any necessary adjustments to make sure the drawer boxes are level and flush to the back of the face frame. You’ll want to make those adjustments now because it can be very difficult to do after the drawer faces are attached.  I have learned this the hard way.
  • EXTRA! One great addition to the beverage center is to add a DIY Drawer in a Drawer to keep small items such as corkscrews, bottle openers, K-cups, and wine corks organized.  Check out my tutorial for how to build this because now would be the perfect time to incorporate it into the beverage center.

Step 9: Cut the drawer faces and beverage center top

  • Using the remaining plywood cut out the beverage center top,  and drawer faces. You WILL need to edge band these pieces to hide the unsightly edge!
  • Cut the top to overhang the base by 1/2″ on either side and the front.
  • The drawer faces should be cut to fit within the face frame and cover each drawer box with a 1/16″ gap around each drawer face. A tip is to use playing cards or nickels to get even spacing.

Step 10: Finishing

  • You’ve gotten as far as you possibly can without putting it all together which means it’s time to sand everything smooth and apply the finish you’ve chosen.
  • Remember, if you are staining then you should be using a pre-stain wood conditioner which will help the plywood absorb the stain evenly and prevent blotchy discolorations.
  • Apply a protective topcoat. A wipe-on polyurethane (over oil-base stain) or polycrylic (over water-based paint) is a great choice for this build.

Step 11: Attach drawer faces and drawer hardware

  • Start by removing all drawer boxes except the bottom and then work your way up.
  • Use your playing cards or nickels to help you evenly space the drawer face with the face frame, then pre-drill 2 holes from the inside of the drawer box out into the drawer face.
  • Next, use two 1 ¼” screws to attach each drawer face to the drawer box.
  • Once all drawer faces are attached, you can install your drawer pulls according to the manufacturer’s directions.
  • Finally, cut the 1/8″ backer board to size to cover the back of the drawer compartment and attach it with brad nails.

Step 12: Attach the top

  • Using the figure-eight fasteners and matching size Forstner bit attach two figure-eight fasteners to each side and the center divider. If you’re unsure how to attach figure-eight fasteners here is a quick video to help you out:

Note: This is a very heavy piece of furniture and should not be moved by lifting from the top. Always lift from the sides or bottom.

Step 13: Install the mini-fridge!

  • Once the beverage center has been carried to where it will be placed in your home slide the mini-refrigerator into place and fill it with your favorite beverages.  I already know what mine would be! 😉

diy beverage center housing mini fridge

Great job!! This is going to be such a cool piece to have in your home and you’ll enjoy the extra space in your kitchen refrigerator.

Check out my latest blog post about building a DIY Folding Craft/Sewing Table! This table is large enough for any craft project but folds down when you don’t need it. Perfect for anyone with a small space but large crafting ambitions!

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom, and registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture, and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the items we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips, and tricks.

 

I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on PinterestInstagram, and Facebook to see what I am working on right now.