Build It Archives - Page 22 of 55

book, Books as decor, Build It, reading nook

How to Install Rain Gutter Bookshelves

Hi, everyone! It is Anika from Anika’s DIY Life again. Today, I want to share an easy and cheap project that is perfect for any kid who loves to read! I have been working on making the kids’ playroom more functional and organized. The room is long and narrow, so I built a toy organizer along one wall. The corner of the opposite wall seemed like a good spot to create a reading nook. Of course, any proper reading nook needs book storage! Enter rain gutters from the home improvement store. I have used rain gutter bookshelves in previous homes to easily and inexpensively add book storage. Get ready to learn how to install rain gutter bookshelves!

It is well known that the best way to encourage little kids to read books is to have the front of books visible to little readers. Rain gutter bookshelves hold books in this face front view which is perfect to peak a child’s curiosity. The kids’ bedside table with book storage also works great for this purpose!

Here is a step-by-step guide for how to install the rain gutter bookshelves.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Vinyl rain gutters (choose from a variety of colors)
Vinyl rain gutter hangers
K-type vinyl end caps
Hand saw
Stud finder (my favorite stud finder!)
Level
Long straight edge – yardstick or pine board
#8 – 1 ½” screws
Pencil
Sandpaper
Tape measure
Drill

Instructions:

Step 1 – Start by deciding the length of the bookshelves you want and cut the rain gutters to size with a hand saw. (For my project I cut two 40″ bookshelves to fit under a window.) Sand all the rough edges.

Step 2 –Find the studs in the wall using the stud finder and mark them with pencil. (Don’t have a stud finder? Here are 5 Ways to find Studs without one.) Wall studs are typically 16″ apart, so for the 40″ shelves I anchored two anchors at 32″ apart. For shelves longer than 48″ you might need more hangars.

Step 3 – Use a level mounted onto a straight edge while you mark the locations for the hangars. This will insure straight shelves.

Step 4 – Install the hangers using the 1 ½” screws. The screws should go in at an angle. Make sure the tip of the screw is positioned on the spot you marked when you start to drive the screw in. It is important to anchor the hangers to studs. Unfortunately, you cannot use anchors because of the angle the screws go into the wall.

(I found that about 15″ spacing between the bookshelves is sufficient height to accommodate most picture books.)

Step 5 – Carefully slide the rain gutter through the hangers.

Step 6 – Install the end caps. They can be a bit tricky to get on and may need a little “persuasion”. Once you get them on, they should stay on nice and tight.

That’s it! Here are the installed rain gutter bookshelves:

Behold, an inviting wall full of colorful books. Instant fuel for lots of reading!

I am off to add more fun details to our reading nook. I have an accent wall planned along with some more unique projects. Be sure to follow along at Anika’s DIY Life to see how this space evolves.

Until next time!

~ Read More of Anika’s Tutorials ~

March 8, 2017/6 Comments/by Anika Gandhi

accessories, Build It, decor

DIY Candle Lantern from Leftover Trim

Hi there, Pretty Handy Girl readers! I’m Vineta from The Handyman’s Daughter, and I’m back with another awesome project to share with you. When I cleaned up my disaster of a workshop last month, I unearthed a few scraps of trim left over from my fireplace remodel. I couldn’t bear to get rid of these beautiful pieces. Instead, I decided to turn them into a candle lantern that will coordinate perfectly with our new fireplace!

This particular type of trim is called an architrave, and it is typically installed on top of windows and doors for a bold architectural statement. But it worked perfectly under my narrow mantel! You can see all the details of the trim I used in my fireplace remodel here.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

3/4″ square wooden dowels
Scrap wood for the inside of the base (Feel free to use any type of trim for this candle lantern, especially leftover trim. 😉 )
Brad nails
1 ¼” pocket hole screws
1″ wood screws
Wood filler
Wood glue
Sandpaper
Candle

Instructions:

Start by cutting your trim down into manageable pieces. (Mine are about 10 inches long.)

Then cut it into three separate parts as shown below.

The angled piece will become the base, the square piece will be the top, and the flat middle will fill in the bottom. Alternatively, you could use baseboard or crown moulding for the base, smaller trim for the top, and scrap wood for the bottom. Play around with different combinations in the trim aisle of the home improvement store until you find one you like!

Miter the corners of the base and top pieces to create two frames. The interior dimensions of my lantern are 6″ square.

Apply wood glue to the corners, then nail each one together. The thick base was easy to handle, but the thinner top pieces were a little squirrely. I used a corner clamp to hold everything in place while I wielded the nail gun. Don’t worry if there’s a gap in the corners. We’ll patch everything up later.

Using your base square as a guide, mark the bottom pieces and cut them to fit inside. I used the flat part of my trim for this, but plywood or scrap wood would work as well. Keep in mind how high you want your candle to sit inside the lantern when working on this step.

Nail through the sides to hold the base flat pieces in place.

Fill any holes or gaps with wood filler. Allow it to dry, then sand the surface smooth. When the candle lantern is painted, all those imperfections will disappear.

If you have a particular candle you want to use, now is the time to test it out. Place it in the middle of the base, then determine how tall you want the pillars to be. Mine are about 2 inches taller than the top of the candle. Cut 4 square dowels to that measurement.

Predrill a hole in one end of each dowel with a countersink bit, and a pocket hole in the other end.

Attach the pillars to the base with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. I arranged mine with the pocket holes facing each other, but in retrospect I wish I had them all facing the back so the holes were hidden from view.

Attach the top frame to the top of the pillars with screws. Make sure the tops of the pillars are flush with the top edge of the frame.

Now your candle sconce is ready for paint! Primer helps cover up the wood filler. I used some leftover chalk mix paint from my bread box makeover, and it goes perfectly with the dark gray tile of my fireplace. Even side by side, it’s hard to tell that I used the same trim for both!

Is your style a little more rustic? Katie has you covered with this stained wood version lantern!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this month’s tutorial! For more great DIY ideas, check out my blog at The Handyman’s Daughter. Until next time!

~ view more of Vineta’s projects ~

March 1, 2017/2 Comments/by Vineta Jackson

Build It

DIY Rolling Plant Caddy Tutorial

Hello everyone! I’m Brittany from by Brittany Goldwyn, and I’m back to bring you another easy and stylish tutorial! Last month I shared a tutorial on how to frame out a mirror using wood. This month I’m working with wood again to build a plant caddy.

One look at my Instagram feed and you’ll see that we probably have too many plants for our house, but plants make me happy, and I find that they are just the easiest way to decorate without spending a ton of money. We have quite a few big plants and moving them can be a beast. That’s where a rolling plant caddy comes in handy. Luckily, they are pretty easy to make. I made mine out of scrap wood that was left over from previous projects. I hate letting things go to waste, so I love a good scrap wood project!

If you’d like to learn how to make a rolling plant caddy, read on.

Materials

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Lumber:

(6) 1×2 pieces cut to 12 inches each
(2) 1×4 pieces cut to 12 inches each

Tools and hardware:

Other:

Instructions:

Step 1: Cut and polish your pieces.

Use your saw to cut (8) pieces of lumber: (6) pieces of 1″ x 2″ cut to 12 inches each and (2) pieces of 1″ x 4″ cut to 12 inches each. I used pine for my plant caddy, but you can use any type of lumber you like. Cedar would be a good option if you plan to use your plant caddy outdoors.

Use medium or fine grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough edges on your pieces. Give each piece a good sanding to ensure it is polished.

Step 2: Stain the wood.

I have a lot of unfinished pine furniture and decor in my house, so I chose Minwax “Natural” stain. Feel free to choose the stain color you like. (For great instructions on how to stain and finish wood, check out this detailed post.)

Step 3: Assemble the caddy.

Once the pieces are dry, use wood glue to glue the 1″ x 2″ pieces to the 1″ x 4″ pieces as shown below.

View of the top:

View of the bottom (the side you’ll attach the caster wheels to):

Add just a bit of glue for the side of each piece. Don’t use too much glue, or it will ooze out the sides when you assemble the caddy. Allow the glue to dry completely.

Step 4: Attach caster wheels.

Flip the caddy over and screw a caster wheel in each corner. Make sure to buy caster wheels that are graded for the weight you’ll need. (I used (4) casters rated at 20 lbs each.)

Step 5: Finish with polyurethane spray.

Use Minwax polyurethane spray to finish off the caddy and protect the wood from any water spills. This is actually my first time using an aerosol can of polyurethane, it’s much easier than brushing on the polyurethane and worrying about getting into the nooks and crannies of the caddy.

You can see the bit of added sheen in this photo:

After the polyurethane is completely dry, place your plant on the caddy and enjoy being able to move your plant easily!

If you liked this project, you might like my tree stump side table, my indoor succulent care tips, my teacup planters, and my hanging indoor garden! I’ll see you next month but in the meantime, you can always visit me on my blog to see what I’m up to. Until next time!

Pin for later!

February 15, 2017/9 Comments/by Brittany Goldwyn

Build It

How to Build a Lost and Found Center

Plans to Build a School Lost & Found Center | Pretty Handy Girl

Lost & Found Centers are overlooked spots in schools. The “center” at my sons’ school used to be a folding table that was heaped with mounds of clothing hopelessly separated from their owners. I took on the task of organizing this “center” at my sons’ school once a week. I’d spend a good 20 minutes folding and laying the items out so that they could be seen and hopefully recognized. Unfortunately the children would start picking up items and soon the table would be a jumbled mess again. I knew there had to be a better way to organize the Lost & Found Center and make it easier for the kids to find their items. My dream was a spot that would organize itself.

With this in mind, I created a plan that would accommodate all the jackets, hats, gloves, scarves and other random items that made their way to the lost & found. The best part of my plan was I could use a variety of scrap wood I had laying around in my garage plus some long 1″ x 10″ boards reclaimed from my in-law’s old platform bed. (I’m the frequent recipient of “good wood” from old furniture and shelving.)

If you have ties to a school (especially an elementary school) and have a little time, consider making a Lost & Found center for them. You will be their hero . . . trust me! 😉

Let’s learn How to Build a Lost & Found Center, shall we?

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Tape measure
Saw (preferably a miter saw)
Nailgun or hammer
1 ¼” finish nails
2″ wood screws
2 ½” pocket hole screws
Kreg Jig
Drill
Clamp
Wood glue
Closet rod
Closet rod brackets
7 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′
2 – 1″ x 1″ x 8′ (or 10 linear feet)
2 – 1″ x 3″ x 8′
2 – 1″ x 12″ x 6′ plywood or shelving material
1 – 1″ x 13″ x 4′ plywood or shelf material
1 – 1/4″ x 12″ x 5′ piece of masonite, bead board or plywood

Optional:

Chicken Wire
Cabinet Knobs
8 linear feet of moulding
Table saw

Cut List:

*Please note: I did my best to rebuild the Lost & Found center in Sketch Up. This center was built visually by measuring sides and shelves against each other. Therefore, I ask that you please double check your cuts and my math. I welcome any comments if you find errors. Thanks!

4 – 2″ x 4″ x 10″
2 – 2″ x 4″ x 16 ½” (cut a 45 degree angle off each end to taper the feet)
6 – 2″ x 4″ x 53″
2 – 2″ x 4″ x 45″
10 – 1″ x 1″ x 10″
2 – 1″ x 3″ x 9 ¾”
2 – 1″ x 3″ x 43 ½”
5 – 1″ x 10″ x 12″
1 – 1″ x 10″ x 43 ½”
1 – 1″ x 13″ x 43 ½”
1 – 1″ x 10″ x 58″
1 – 1/4″ x 12″ x 56 ½”

Instructions:

Cut all lumber according to cut list above. Sand all pieces to remove any rough spots or splinters.

Lay out the 2″ x 4″ pieces to created the vertical supports as shown below.

Chicken Wire Side Construction:

If you decide not to use chicken wire on your sides, skip to the next section. You don’t “need” the chicken wire, but it is nice for clipping small items to or to stuff mittens in the holes. Alternatively you can add hooks or clips to the sides for those smaller items.

This is optional, but if you want to use chicken wire in the end pieces, use a table saw to rip a 1/2″ deep groove into one side of four of the 2″ x 4″ x 53″ boards and four of the 2″ x 4″ x 10″ boards.

Then drill pocket holes, using a Kreg Jig, into both ends of your 2″ x 4″ x 53″ boards. Never used a Kreg Jig? Here’s a simple tutorial.

Attach one 2″ x 4″ x 16½” (bottom foot) to one 2″ x 4″ x 53″ (side) using 2½” pocket hole screws. Clamping the joint before you secure the screws will help keep the boards from shifting.

Cut chicken wire to fit into the vertical support frame (allow an extra 1/2 inch all the way around to recess into the grooves.) Fit chicken wire into the foot and side of the vertical support you assembled.

Attach the 2″ x 4″ x 10″ (top) using two more pocket hole screws.

Secure the chicken wire by driving 1 ¼” finish nails into the sides to prevent the chicken wire from sliding out of the groove.

Carefully feed the chicken wire into the grooves on the remaining 2″ x 4″ x 53″ side.

Secure the other side with pocket hole screws. Finish the vertical support by nailing more 1 ¼” finish nails through the chicken wire on the other side.

That completes one vertical end support. Repeat for the other side. The next step, you will only be assembling the center vertical support.

Assembling the Vertical Supports:

Attach two 2″ x 4″ x 53″ (sides) to one 2″ x 4″ x 16 ½” (foot) and one 2″ x 4″ x 10″ (top) with pocket hole screws as shown below.

Assemble the other vertical support and assemble the center vertical support (which has two 2″ x 4″ x 10″ pieces for top and bottom and no angled foot piece.)

Shelf Tower Construction:

Lay the left vertical side support and the center vertical support side-by-side and mark the shelf locations as shown here:

Note that the shelf supports are 11″ apart except for the top support which is located 12″ from the top. Transfer measurements onto both vertical supports as shown below:

Attach 1″ x 1″ x 10″ supports with wood glue and . . .

. . . secure with finish nails.

Starting from the bottom. Set each 1″ x 10″ x 12″ shelf on top of the supports and secure with more finish nails.

Work your way up the shelf tower adding one shelf at a time.

Assemble Closet Rod Supports:

Attach the two 1″ x 3″ x 9 3/4″ blocks to the center support and remaining right side support using 2″ wood screws.

The blocks should be positioned 12″ from the top and inset 3/4″ from the back:

Attach the closet rod brackets to the lower center of the 1″ x 3″ x 9 3/4″ blocks (line them up toward the bottom edge to allow hangers enough room to be lifted and removed.)

Attaching the Two Sides Together:

Note: If you have to transport the Lost & Found Center, you may choose to complete these steps on location.

Drill pocket holes into one end of each of the 2″ x 4″ x 45″ boards.

The pocket hole side will secure to the inside foot of the right vertical side support. The other end can be secured to the outside bottom edges of the center support using 2″ wood screws.

Attach one 1″ x 3″ x 43 ½” to the back of the two closet rod support boards. (This should fit nicely where it was inset 3/4″.) Use wood glue and finish nails or pre-drill holes and secure with 2″ wood screws.

Add the 1″ x 13″ x 43 ½” shelf on top of the bottom supports. Secure with finish nails. (Ignore my bottom shelf construction. I changed it for this tutorial to save wood and simplify.)

Add the 1″ x 10″ x 43 ½” on top of the closet rod support boards. Secure with finish nails.

Drill pocket hole screws into the ends of the second 1″ x 3″ x 43 ½” board.

Rest this 1″ x 3″ x 43 ½” board on top of the top shelf. Secure it to the right vertical side support and the center vertical support using pocket screws. This is the view from the back of this shelf:

Attach the top 1″ x 10″ x 58″ to the vertical supports by driving several 2″ wood screws through the board and into the supports.

Add drawer knobs to the sides and clip a few clothespins to the chicken wire.

Secure the masonite to the back of the shelf tower using finish nails.

To finish off the top, you can nail a few pieces of moulding around the top board, but it’s not necessary.

Deliver the Lost & Found Center and load it up!

The kids were so excited to see the center. They exclaimed, “It’s so pretty, it looks like a store!”

The shelf tower is perfect for sweatshirts, lunch boxes and other items that don’t hang on hangers.

And the chicken wire sides and knobs work great for hanging hats, gloves and smaller articles of clothing.

For safety, I added a sand filled bag to the back of the lower shelf. This keeps the center from accidentally tipping if a child pulls on a shelf or clothing. You could use a few bricks or cinderblocks instead. Or you can anchor the center to the wall.

What do you think? Could a school near you use a new Lost & Found Center?

I’d love to hear if you make one for a school or organization near you.

Want to see the School Library Transformation I completed that turned a corner of the library into the most popular spot in school?

February 10, 2017/4 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

accessories, arts and craft, Build It, de-clutter, decor, organizational tips

DIY Scrap Moulding Trays

Are you on a purge mission to get rid of excess stuff? Me too! How about your workshop? Do you have scrap wood you need to get rid of? Yes? Perfect. Today I have a simple tutorial to show you how to make DIY Scrap Moulding Trays.

DIY Scrap Molding Trays

These trays are really cute and can be given as gifts and used to corral things together. Honestly, they are now one of my favorite scrap wood projects!

Regardless of how you use these scrap molding trays, they are a great way to reuse materials.

Materials:

Scrap 1″ board (cut to any size rectangle or square you like.)
Door/Window casing
Speed square
Sandpaper
Brad nailer
Brad nails
Wood Glue
Fusion Mineral Paint

Optional: Clamps

Instructions:

Cut a 45˚ angle into one end of your case molding (the longer side of the cut should be on the outside of the molding.) Never used a miter saw before? Watch this video tutorial to learn how to use a miter saw.

Line up the inner edge of the cut against one corner of your base wood. Mark the location of the other corner onto the molding.

Extend the line along the molding using a speed square.

Line up the mark with your saw blade and cut at a 45˚ angle.

Repeat for the remaining sides until you have four sides cut with all ends mitered to 45˚.

Test fit all the molding sides against the baseboard and make any adjustments as needed.

Sand any rough spots off with a sanding sponge.

Paint the molding your color of choice. I used a variety of Fusion paints. This is the first time I’ve used Fusion Mineral Paints, but it definitely won’t be the last! They go on smoothly and don’t require a primer. Plus, with a light sanding afterward the paint doesn’t feel chalky.