5 Tips for Building Professional Looking Furniture


5 Tips to Building the Best Looking Furniture

It’s Shara here again from Woodshop Diaries and today I want to share Five Tips to Building the Best Looking Furniture, which will result in more professional looking results.

I build a lot of DIY furniture–like the modern dresser cabinet in the image above.  Over the past couple of years I’ve learned a few simple tips (mostly the hard way) that can make a huge difference in the look and quality of your DIY furniture.  Luckily, these are simple tips that won’t take much time or effort to learn. Now that we’re friends, I’ll share all my pro secrets with you. 😉

1. Putty or Caulk Imperfections

Never assume that paint will hide imperfections. Overfill any small cracks, imperfections, or holes with wood putty. (Be sure to use stainable putty if you are staining instead of painting your furniture.) After the putty dries it will shrink slightly (which is why you should overfill). Then sand it down smooth.

If you have a seam between two pieces (i.e. a piece of trim secured to lumber), caulk the seam with paintable caulk. Caulk will flex as the two pieces move independently. Let dry and paint.

2. Sanding Isn’t Optional

Sanding is an absolute must.  I know, I know! Yuck, right?  No one likes sanding.  But, for a clean and professional looking piece of furniture, you’re going to have to sand.

A few sanding tips to make your life easier:

  1. Use an orbital sander (or belt sander if necessary) to smooth all pieces before assembling.  I usually sand all my pieces with at least 220 grit before putting anything together.  It’s hard to sand those hard to reach areas after assembly. Doing it before saves you time and energy later.
  2. After assembly, sand uneven areas with a low grit (like 60, 80, 120) to smooth edges, then buff out sanding marks and smooth down with a higher grit (like 220, 320).  After sanding with 220 or 320, it should be super smooth (like a baby’s bottom!)

Need more sanding tips? I wrote a whole post on sanding here.

One more note:  Be careful when sanding plywood.  Sanding plywood veneer with high grit sandpaper can easily remove the top layer and ruin your piece.  Sand plywood very lightly and with a low grit to prevent this from happening.

3.  Account for Blade Widths on Cuts

Saw blades for circular, miter, and table saws are typically about 1/8″ wide (measure your own to be certain.)  This is not something I considered when I first started out.  I quickly learned that this was important to know when I cut some table legs and realized that a couple were 1/8″ longer than the other—after it was already assembled.

When you make your cut marks, always remember to set the blade on the scrap side of the mark. Don’t cut in the middle of the mark and don’t line up the blade with the wrong side.  One eighth of an inch doesn’t seem like much, but it can really throw off your project. For added insurance, mark an “X” on the cut off (or scrap) side of your lumber.

If you accidentally cut one board for a project a little short because you forget about the blade width (which, by the way, is also called “kerf”), it’s okay.  Just be consistent.  If you made the mistake on a table leg, then make sure to cut all the legs a little short.  If you made the mistake on a table apron or the frame panel of a cabinet, just make sure to cut all the others in the project a little short.  As long as you are consistent, you can usually recover.

4:  Check for Square

This is usually something most people (like me) learn the hard way.  I can’t tell you how many times I built something with doors and they looked crooked.  Usually either the door or the cabinet isn’t square.  Once you’re to this point, it’s usually too late to fix.

If you are building a cabinet or a table (or anything really), check for square after each step.  If you aren’t a math person and don’t want to think about the logic behind Pythagorean’s Theorem, this is how you measure for square:

Depending on what you are building, this may look slightly different. Let’s say (for example) you are building a cabinet and you have all the sides together and are about to put on the back.  You want to check that it’s square before you nail on the back piece because you don’t want to nail it on crooked.  Take your tape measure and place it on one outside corner and take a measurement to the opposite outside corner.

Then repeat for the other two corners.

The two measurements should be equal as shown above. If they are not, make any necessary adjustments.  Making adjustments can be as simple as removing screws and repositioning, or simply clamping two corners to pull them together before you nail on the back. Whatever you do, don’t move on to the next step until you’ve squared up your piece.  This will save you headache later on, I promise!

5:  Square your edges

Speaking of square, squaring off your board edges before using them can really take your DIY furniture up a notch.  Your joints will look cleaner; your measurements will be more accurate; and it will be much easier to assemble.

What do I mean by squaring off your board edges??  When you purchase any 2x board (and sometimes 1x boards too) at the building supply or big box store, the edges are rounded like this:

When you try to join a flat edge to this round edge, you get this large, awkward gap.

To fix this issue, you can use a table saw to rip this corner off the boards so the edge is square and flat like this:

Then you have nice clean joints.

One thing you have to remember about squaring off your edges is that your board will now be slightly narrower.  If you are following plans you found online or in a book, you may need to make a few adjustments to account for this change in width.  It’s slight, but just like the kerf we talked about before, it can really throw you off if you aren’t careful. Want to see more details about squaring off boards? You can check out my post here on how I square off my board edges and how I make my own 2×2 boards.

Those are my top five tips for how to get better looking and better quality DIY furniture.  I hope some of these were helpful and you can start improving your furniture builds today.  What are your tips for quality looking DIY furniture!  Leave a note in the comments about your best tip to improve your DIY furniture.

Happy Building!

Shara's Signature

~Read more of Shara’s Tutorials~

DIY Library Book BoxDIY Library Book Box

Hello Pretty Handy Girl readers! Sarah here from The Created Home to share with you a fun solution for housing library books: A Library Book Box!

Recently I had to cough up $10 to our local public library for a missing book — which sort of kills me since I have turned our home upside down looking for it. I mean, it’s Curious George, and those things are bright yellow! Has this ever happened to you? Even if it hasn’t, it is helpful to have a designated spot for library books. After all, we want to encourage reading, not get frustrated about trying to find them. Right?!

We love books around here. In fact, I built two reading nooks to support my own little readers. This elevated version in our playroom features bookshelves that double as a secret stairway. And this one is built right into my kids’ closet. Not ready for a full reading nook? This book box is a simple way to bring some reading fun into your home!

Materials:

  • Wood for box frame (We will talk about lengths in a bit)
  • Wood inserts for books
  • Wood glue
  • Finish nails
  • Brad nailer
  • 2 books
  • Acrylic paint (optional)
  • [amazon_textlink asin=’B000BZZ3S8′ text=’Varnish’ template=’ProductLink’ store=’prett-wp-001-20′ marketplace=’US’ link_id=’ca82d0cd-c9af-11e7-a2c5-03ec0e36f2f5′]

Instructions:

Step 1

You’ll need a couple of books that you don’t mind deconstructing. Check your local thrift store to pick up some great vintage looking hardbacks or get creative with whatever look you like! The books will need to be the same dimensions for this project. Remove all of the pages from the books, leaving only the hard covers.

vintage books box handles

Trace two pieces of wood to fit inside the books. 3/4″ scraps worked perfect for this purpose.

vintage books box

Glue the wood into the book covers, leaving the outside cover free on both. This is for when you put them against the box you can open the cover and nail into the box sides through the wood. I didn’t do this with mine because I realized it would be a good idea too late.

DIY Library Book Box Tutorial

Step 2

Make the box. This is an excellent scrap wood project! You can make the book box as long as you like, though 18″ seems to work well for us. My pieces are scrap flooring from a friend’s business, so they are approximately 4″ tall (1×6 would work just as well). The width of the box is determined by the width of your books, since they are the box sides. Your bottom piece of wood will need to be the width between the front and back pieces.

DIY Library Book Box Tutorial

You can choose to simply glue and nail the pieces of wood together with a finish gun, or you can get fancy and use your router to dado a groove in the wood for the bottom to sit in. Either way works fine!

Step 3

Attach the book sides. As with the other parts of this book box, you’ll want to use both glue and nails to ensure stability. Nail right through the inner part of the “books” into the box sides. Be careful to line the nails up correctly so they don’t go through the box and out the side. Then glue the book cover closed to hide the nail holes.

Read box

Step 4

Add decorative touches and finish. Stain the wood if you like, or simply add varnish. You can choose to add lettering as well – a name or simply “READ” works well. I painted them fun colors because it is for my kids.

DIY Library Book Box Tutorial

Step 5

Load it up! A box about this size holds somewhere around 20 children’s books. If I did it again I might go a bit larger. Another option is to put this on wheels, which would look great. (But, my kids have a tendency to turn everything into skateboards, so I left it grounded!)

DIY Library Book Box Tutorial

That’s it! Hopefully this simple solution will keep your library books corralled and your account happily fine-free. If you make one be sure to share a photo, and happy reading!

DIY Library Book Box Tutorial

~See More Projects by Sarah~

Like this idea? Be sure to check out this awesome closet library Brittany built.

Children's Closet Library with Secret Pass Through | Pretty Handy Girl

or the reading nook she built in her son’s bedroom:

Boy's Red, White & Blue Themed Room | Pretty Handy Girl

 

 

DIY Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Off Feed Table

DIY Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Today I want to share with you my new workshop configuration that has a DIY Table Saw Stand and a collapsible out feed (or work) table. I’ve struggled for years to find a workbench that meets my need to spread out while building and assembling projects. And I wanted this table to act as an out feed table for my table saw. I’ve looked at many options, but ultimately I needed something that could collapse and store away quickly in case we needed to park our car in the garage (for ice storms, hurricanes, tornados, or blizzards.)

At first I was impressed with Ron Paulk’s plans for a portable workbench that could be disassembled. But, I didn’t have the time to take on another build project. I wanted the instant gratification of having a work table immediately. Around the same time I purchased an investment house and started looking at folding work stands that could transport back and forth to the job site. That’s when I realized I could have my cake and eat it too. I could use a collapsible work stand both in my garage and at the job site.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Best of all, there was no building required for the out feed table, and minimal building for the table saw stand. If you are looking for a similar set up, stick around and I’ll show you how to make your own table saw stand and out feed table in an hour or less!

DIY Table Saw Stand

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Cut List:

  • 2 shelves – 3/4″ plywood cut to 20″ x 24″
  • 2 leg supports – 2″ x 4″ x 17″
  • 2 shelf supports – 2″ x 2″ x 24″
  • 2 top supports – 2″ x 2″ x 21″
  • 4 legs – 2″ x 4″ x _?*

* The height of your saw stand legs will be determined by your saw and table heights. I recommend doing a little math and check it with a ruler. (Take the height of your out feed table subtract the height of your table saw. Now subtract 3/4″ for your plywood thickness from this measurement. This is the height your table saw stand legs need to be cut. If you want to be precise, you can subtract an additional 1/8″ and use shims under the table saw to get the perfect height.)

Instructions:

Start by drilling two pocket holes into the ends of the 4″ face of your 2″ x 4″ x 17″ leg supports.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Connect two table legs by driving 2½” pocket hole screws into the 17″ leg supports as shown below. Repeat for the other side.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Pre-drill one hole into each end of the 2″ x 2″ x 21″ top supports.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Connect the two leg assemblies with the 2″ x 2″ x 21″ top supports using two 2 ½” wood screws as shown below:

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Repeat for the other side. Your table base should look like this:

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Trace the legs on each corner of one of the 3/4″ plywood shelves.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Cut out the corner leg shapes you traced.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Place the shelf in between the leg assemblies. (I made the mistake of trying to add the shelf after adding the shelf supports.)

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Pre-drill holes at the ends of the 2″ x 2″x 24″ lower shelf supports.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Secure the lower shelf support 1 ½” up from the base of the table saw stand with two 2 ½” wood screws per leg.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Place the bottom shelf on top of the lower shelf supports. Then center the top shelf on top of the base and pre-drill holes around the perimeter. Place one screw at each corner and four in between the corners.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Drive 2″ wood screws into the plywood top.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Set your table saw on your new stand. Use shims to raise the table saw and level if needed.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Slide your table saw stand up to the out feed table and start making some sawdust!

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Collapsible Out Feed Table:

As I mentioned earlier, I was looking for a set up that could collapse easily should I need to pull my car into the garage. That’s how I discovered the Centipede collapsible work table. The Centipede is lightweight but strong, especially when you lay a sheet of plywood on top to distribute the weight.

It’s incredibly easy to set up as you can see from my Facebook Live video I took when I set up the Centipede for the first time:

After setting up the Centipede (which took less than a minute), I laid a  4′ x 8′ x 3/8″ PVC sheet on top of the Centipede for a work surface. The choice to go with the PVC sheet was two-fold. 1) I wanted something that was lighter weight than a piece of plywood (to keep things simple when I’m working on my own). 2) And the second reason I chose the PVC sheet over plywood was to have a nice smooth and clean surface for photography. So far the PVC works great. It has a few scratches on it now, but still works well as a back drop.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

After using this set up all summer, I only found one drawback. The 3/8″ PVC sheet is stable but has some flex in it, so I can’t necessarily hammer on it without some bounce. But, I also purchased a large sheet of rigid foam insulation to use for cutting into when using a circular or track saw. I may try to put the rigid foam insulation sheet under the PVC sheet and see if that helps. Of course, I’ll have to raise my table saw a little, but it would be worth it to have a more stable surface.

Table Saw Review:

If you have an eagle eye, you may have noticed that there are not power cords coming from that table saw! That’s because, it’s a DeWalt FlexVolt Cordless Table Saw. DeWalt sent the tool to me to review and I honestly didn’t expect to like the saw as much as I do. I have been using the saw for over a year now and I LOVE IT! It’s completely portable so I can bring it with me on job sites. There are no cords, which frees up valuable electrical outlets in my shop.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

The saw is definitely quieter than my old table saw. I love that the blade stops very quickly when the red stop button is pushed. (This could potentially reduce the severity of an injury, but not prevent it all together.)

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

The cuts it makes are very precise and smooth. Although it is battery powered, I haven’t noticed a difference in power between the FlexVolt and my corded table saw. I’ve used it to cut through plywood, pressure treated lumber and masonite. The only difference I have noticed is the blade will spin a little slower when the battery is almost drained. It won’t continue to decrease speed, instead when the saw senses the low battery it won’t allow you to continue making cuts without charging the battery.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

You can keep an eye on the charge on the FlexVolt batteries by pressing the button on the charge indicator. I do recommend purchasing two FlexVolt batteries so you can always keep one charged. The length of time this saw will run on one battery is unbelievable. I expected much less out of the battery life, but I cut an entire pantry’s worth of plywood and still had plenty of juice left for another project.

DIY Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Off Feed Table

This little set up is working out perfectly for my small shop. The DIY Table Saw Stand has storage underneath for extra blades, batteries and for the GRR-RIPPER 3D Push blocks (that I highly recommend for use with any table saw. They have changed the way I work with my table saw for the better.)

Let me know if you have any questions in the comment field. I’m happy to answer them.

Table Saw Stand and Collapsible Out Feed Work Table

Disclosure: The Dewalt FlexVolt Table Saw was sent to me for product review. I was not told what to write or paid for my review. 

creative ways to repurpose old shutters - social media image

creative ways to repurpose old shutters - social media image

Do you have a collection of old shutters filling up your storage space? Or do you want some ideas using old shutters in case you come across a set? If so, this post is for you! I’ve put together 13 creative ideas on how you can repurpose old shutters and turn them into something  amazing.

Creative Ways to Repurpose Old Shutters:

repurpose old shutters - dresser makeover - savvyapron.com

Give an old dresser a gorgeous makeover using old shutters like Savvy Apron!

 

Repurpose old shutters - doggie door -11 magnolia lane

Keep your pets out of trouble by building a doggie gate from old plantation shutters like 11 Magnolia Lane.

 

shutters display christmas cards

Make a holiday card display with some old, tall shutters this December.

 

Old Shutters as backdrop on mantel

Use old shutters as a backdrop for your mantel to add a gorgeous farmhouse feel.

 

repurpose old shutters - Shutter To Do Board - huntandhost.net

Stay organized with a Shutter To-Do Board like Hunt and Host made.

 

old shutters as photo display

Use an old shutter to display your family photos or postcards!

 

repurpose old shutters - privacy screen - diybungalow.com

Gain some privacy in your backyard by building a fence out of old shutters like DIY Bungalow did!

 

Use old shutters to dress up a plain dormer window on the inside of your home.

 

repurpose old shutters - works of art - shoppeno5.com

Shoppe No. 5 shows us how to make some amazing word art using old shutters.

 

repurpose old shutters - fireplace cover - shabbyfufublog.com

Get some inspiration for using shutters to brighten up a dark fireplace at Shabby FuFu Blog.

 

repurpose old shutters - cleaning up with shutter doors - DesignDreamsbyAnne.blogspot.ca

Use old louvered bi-fold doors like Design Dreams by Anne to hide the clutter and make the space more beautiful.

 

repurpose old shutters - add character to windows in bedroom - Chatfield Court.com

Shutters can go indoors too, adding texture and contrast to a room like Chatfield Court.

 

repurpose old shutters - jewelry organizer - DesignDreamsbyAnne.com

Keep your jewelry in sight and mess-free, with this beautiful old shutter jewelry organizer by Design Dreams by Anne.

 

If you liked this collection of ideas, pin this image to share it with others!

creative ways to repurpose old shutters - pinterest image

If you liked this post, you must see these upcycled ideas:

upcycled holiday decor

12 Great Upcycled Ideas for Holiday Decor

 

6 of the Easiest Ways to Remove Pallet Wood

6 of the Easiest Ways to Remove Pallet Wood6 of the Easiest Ways to Remove Pallet Wood

Last week I shared with you the cold hard facts about harvesting pallet wood. But, like you, I still like to use pallet wood from time to time. Just make sure you’ve weighed the risks and the work involved to harvest the pallet wood before you get started. Today I’m going to show you 6 of the Easiest Ways to Remove Pallet Wood. If you’re up for the challenge, let’s get started.

How to Make an Air Conditioner Screen from Pallets

Pallet upcycling is all the rage today. But, if you’ve ever tried to remove the planks from a pallet, you know it’s not an easy task. Pallet nails are typically spiral nails and are designed to grip that wood with fierce strength. If that’s not enough, there can be 4-5 nails per joint. Sheesh, you’d think pallets were built to hold a 10 ton elephant. Well, actually, it is made to hold tons of product as it is lifted by a fork lift. Which explains why harvesting pallet wood can be labor intensive.

To save you time, sweat, and a backache; here are the quickest and easiest ways I’ve found to salvage beautiful rustic pallet wood. Read more