diy Archives - Page 7 of 10 - Pretty Handy Girl

Hanging Garden Tool Organizer

Hi again, I’m Vineta from The Handyman’s Daughter and I’m back this month with a smart idea for organizing your garden tools. My garden tools were always scattered throughout the shed making it hard to get started on a gardening project. Thanks to this Hanging Garden Tool Organizer, there’s now a place for everything.

Seattle’s Spring got off to a slow start, so as soon as the sun came out I was anxious to get new plants in the ground. I recently built a garden trellis and it was time to add climbing vines! Unfortunately, when I opened the garden shed, I faced this disaster . . .

Toys, leaves, and even my husband’s long lost bike helmet littered the floor. Sadly half the hooks on the pegboard walls were empty. Obviously I needed a better organizational system before someone got a rake to the head!

I cleared everything out (including too many spiders) and took inventory. Toys were relocated to the new storage bench I built for the backyard; plastic pots were recycled; and broken tools were tossed. Bigger shovels and rakes went back on the hooks, but I needed to create a home for the small hand tools and gloves.

I didn’t want to throw all the smaller items in a bucket where they would get lost again. An inexpensive shoe organizer was the perfect solution. Adding labels to each pocket helps keep everything in its place.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

How to Make a Hanging Garden Tool Organizer:

Start by measuring the size of one pocket of the shoe organizer. (Mine are a little over 4 inches wide and 7 inches long.) If you don’t want to use all the pockets, feel free to trim off the extras. I only needed a dozen for all my small items, so I cut off the bottom two rows.

Make a list of all the tools you want to store in the pockets. Using the software that comes with your vinyl cutting machine, create labels with text or images. (Mine are a combination of this design and clip art I found online.) Don’t forget to mirror the image if it has text!

Place the iron-on vinyl onto the sticky mat (shiny side down) and feed the mat into the machine. Send your design to cut. Cut apart the individual designs and weed out the negative space.

Place each design (plastic side up) on a pocket of the shoe organizer. It’s a good idea to keep heavier tools like the trowel and pruning shears at the bottom and lighter items like seeds and gloves at the top.

Set your iron to the highest setting. Lay a piece of cotton cloth (a thin tea towel or even a t-shirt is fine) on top of your design. Iron it in place. Move the iron around over the design for 30 seconds to adhere the vinyl to the pocket. Be careful not to leave the iron in one spot too long or you risk scorching the fabric.

Your design is adhered properly when the clear plastic peels away cleanly. If it still sticks, iron more!

Once the iron on is cool, move on to the next one. I had never used iron-on vinyl before and was pretty impressed at how flexible it is. The vinyl looks like it would peel up easily, but it adhered firmly.

Hang your organizer. My organizer came with over-the-door hooks, but they were too big for the louvered doors of my shed. I used hooks to hang it on the pegboard wall. Time to fill up your organizer.

The heavier tools flopped forward so I stapled the fold of the pockets to the pegboard to keep them straight.

No more hunting for that matching glove! They always have a home now.

Now my garden shed is neat and organized! I can instantly see what tools are missing and hunt them down in the garden before they turn to rust. The images on the garden tool organizer make it easy for even the little kids to help with clean up.

Need more garden tool storage ideas? I’ve found some genius garden tool storage ideas, including the inspiration for this project, here.

Thanks for reading and don’t forget to check out my blog at The Handyman’s Daughter for more projects!

~ view more of Vineta’s projects ~

May 3, 2017/3 Comments/by Vineta Jackson

Build It

How to Build a Modern Farmhouse Bench

How to Build a Modern Farmhouse Dining Bench

Hello everyone, I’m Shara from the DIY blog Woodshop Diaries. I am excited to be a new contributor on Pretty Handy Girl!! If you don’t already know me, it’s very nice to “meet” you! I’m a DIYer with a passion for woodworking and remodeling.

That being said, I’ve been super busy building in the shop lately and one of my latest (and favorite) projects was this modern farmhouse table. But of course, no farmhouse table is complete without at least one matching bench, right? Today I’m going to show you how to build a modern farmhouse bench. 🙂

Get your building music ready, and let’s get started.

Materials:

(2) 2″ x 8″ x 8′
(3) 2″ x 4″ x 8′
(1) 4″ x 4″ x 8′
2 ½” pocket hole screws
2 ½” wood screws
4″ wood screws
Wood Glue
Miter saw
Circular Saw
Drill
Jig Saw
Kreg Jig for pocket holes
Sander
Stain or Paint and Polycrylic

Instructions:

Step 1: Cut the Legs.

Cut four legs from the 4×4’s at 18″ long using a miter saw.

Step 2: Assemble the top

Using glue and clamps (or using 1 ½” pocket holes and 2 ½” pocket hole screws), attach the two 2″ x 8″ x 8′ boards together.

Once the glue is dry, trim down to your desired length using a circular saw and a straight edge (beware of the location of your screws if you used pocket screws).

Step 3: Cut corners for legs

Using a jig saw, mark 3 ½” squares on each corner and cut out. This is where the legs will go in the next step.

Once your corners are cut, drill 1 ½” pocket holes as shown below. Repeat for each corner.

Step 4: Attach the legs

Set a 4×4 leg into each corner. Make sure the leg tops are flush with the top of the bench. Secure the legs into the corners using 2 ½” pocket hole screws. You will add more support in the next step, so don’t worry if the legs feel a little flimsy. The screws simply hold the legs in place while you add the supports.

Step 5: Add bottom supports

Measure the distance between all your legs. Cut the 2″ x 4″ boards to fit between the legs. (Depending on how accurate your jig saw cuts are, one side may be slightly longer than the other.) The 2″ x 4″ support pieces must fit snug between the legs. Drill two pocket holes in both ends. Line up the supports approximately 1 ½” from the edge of the bench top. Attach the supports between the legs using 2 ½” pocket hole screws. Note: You will have to attach the short pieces first or you won’t be able to fit the drill in between the longer side pieces.

Pre-drill holes (to avoid splitting the wood) through the supports into the bench top. Use 4″ wood screws to secure the supports to the bench top.

Cut two more pieces of 2×4 to fit between the two long supports. Attach these small 2×4’s to the supports using 2½” wood screws driven in at an angle.

For added stability, drive a few more 4″ screws through these smaller supports into the bench top.

Step 6: Finish

Flip your bench over and give it a good sanding. Finish off with stain or paint of your choice. (I stained my bench with Minwax Early American and finished it with Minwax Polycrylic.)

This bench matches perfectly with the modern farmhouse table I recently built for a friend.

Conveniently, it looks handsome inside or outside your home.

What do you think? Want to build this Modern Farmhouse Bench for your home?

Be sure to visit me over at Woodshop Diaries and join in on all the shenanigans ;). Until next time, happy building!!

April 26, 2017/2 Comments/by Shara M

Build It

DIY Wooden Raised Pet Feeder

Hello Pretty Handy Girl readers! It’s Brittany from by Brittany Goldwyn popping in today to share a pretty simple woodworking project for you: a raised pet feeder!

I made a pet feeder around this time last year. However—without thinking—I made it with spots for two bowls: one for each of our kitties. A few months ago, we noticed that Blanche wouldn’t eat her food until Henry had finished, but it was clear she was hungry because she’d scarf her food down when Henry was finally done. We got into the habit of taking one bowl out and putting it on the counter so that they could eat at the same time.

See? Food hog hogging all the food.

This solution was problematic for three reasons:

I don’t want to encourage them to get on the counters, even though they are cats and they are going to do whatever they want.
Blanche sometimes pushes her bowl off the counter by accident and spills her food everywhere.
They weren’t even using the double feeder for its intended purpose.

Back to the drawing board! I decided to replicate the tutorial for a smaller, single-bowl raised feeder for each of them. We’ll separate them and hope all goes well at feeding time.

Want to make one for your pet? Read on.

Note: This tutorial is based on a bowl with a circumference of 4 3/8. If your bowl is larger or smaller, you’ll need to adjust the measurement for your hole size accordingly.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Tools:

Cut list:

(1) 8-inch piece of 1″ x 6″
(2) 1 ½ inch pieces of 1″ x 6″

Instructions:

Step 1: Cut your pieces according to the cut list above. Use a tape measure and pencil to mark the center point on the 8-inch piece of wood. Clamp the wood to your work surface.

Step 2: Use your drill and 4-inch hole saw attachment to drill a hole.

Step 3: Use medium-grit sandpaper to sand down any rough areas on the main piece and two leg pieces. You can also gently smooth over the edges to give the piece a sleek look.

The leg on the left below has been sanded, the one on the right has not. See the difference?

Step 4: Spread wood glue onto the top of each leg. Gently place the top down onto the legs.

Step 5: Apply pressure from above with clamps or something heavy you have on hand. The key is to apply even pressure as the wood glue dries. (I used a weight from the garage gym!) If some of your glue bleeds out, don’t worry. You can use medium-grit sandpaper to sand down those areas. If you don’t sand off the dried glue, the area will not take a wood stain.

Step 6: Your single bowl raised pet feeder is built! Stain and finish according to your preferences.

(My raised feeder was finished with Minwax wood stain in Espresso and two coats of Minwax polyurethane in semigloss. For tips on staining and finishing wood, see this post!)

Once the feeder has dried completely, pop your bowls in and fill them with food. These bowls fit perfectly because their circumference is slightly bigger than 4 inches, meaning they won’t fall through the 4-inch hole. Best of all, Blanche and Henry can happily eat at the same time. 🙂

I’ll see you next month on Pretty Handy Girl! In the meantime, if you love your pets, check out my DIY cat tree using real branches, my Ikea cat condo hack, and my Petcube camera review!

Also make sure to check out the industrial dog bowl feeder stand and the vintage coca cola bowl feeder tutorials on Pretty Handy Girl!

April 19, 2017/2 Comments/by Brittany Goldwyn

Build It, Uncategorized

Two-Tiered Plant Stand using Scrap Wood

Easy two-tiered plant stand made from scrap wood

Hi, guys! Anika here again from Anika’s DIY Life. I have a scrap wood problem—if you do any amount of woodworking, I am sure you can relate. I hate throwing away even the smallest of pieces, but every time I build a piece of furniture my scrap pile explodes. Consequently, I used some of my scraps to create a two-tiered plant stand.

Recently, I completed my biggest build to date and my scrap wood pile has almost tripled! You can safely bet I am going to be making quite a few scrap wood projects for the next few months! But today I will show you how to make this two-tiered plant stand. It is super simple and makes a great beginner woodworking project.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

1 – 1″x 6″ board @ 27″ long (front board)
2 – 1″x 6″ board @ 6″ long (shelves)
2 – 2″ x 2″ board @ 24″ long (legs)
Jig saw
Miter saw
Drill
Kreg Jig
Wood glue
1 ¼” pocket hole screws
#8 – 1 ¼” Spax screws
Wood filler
Brad nailer (optional)

Instruction:

Step 1 – Start by making the cuts. For the 2″ x 2″ boards, make a mark 2½” from the edge and draw a line from the opposite corner. Remove this triangle with your jigsaw.

Step 2 – On the 1″ x 6″ x 6″ boards, cut one end of each at a 30 degrees with your miter saw.

Step 3 -Before attaching the legs, find a spot that is thick enough to attach a screw. Attach the angled cut end of the legs to the 1″ x 6″ x 27″ front board using wood glue and 1 ¼” Spax screws. You can hold the legs tightly in place as you attach with screws or use a finish nail first to hold it in place.

Step 4 – Make two pocket holes in each 6″ shelf. The long end of the cut will be facing you as you drill the 3/4″ pocket holes.

Step 5 – Attach the shelves to the front board using 1 ¼” pocket hole screws. The first shelf should be 8″ from the top and the second shelf should attach 8″ from the first shelf.

Your shelf is built!

Fill the pocket holes with wood filler, sand, and finish with paint or stain. If you paint your shelf be sure to prime first.

Here is a secret: I don’t have a very green thumb and usually manage to kill all plants (even succulents) in the past! I do have a pothos plant that has survived for 10 years. This year I decided to work on my thumb green when I got an orchid plant as a gift. I thought I had killed it, but it is slowly coming back to life with a bit of care. I think I am ready for more plants, so I got these baby plants . . .

. . . I will keep you updated on their progress in the future!

That’s how to build a two-tiered plant stand from scrap wood. It barely put a dent in my scrap pile, but I have to come up with quite a few more projects to really get it under control. If you have a scrap wood problem too, you’ll appreciate that I have a whole bunch of projects using scrap wood. I even built a scrap wood organizer using scrap wood! Follow along on my blog so you don’t miss them!

Until next time!

~ Read More of Anika’s Tutorials ~

April 12, 2017/9 Comments/by Anika Gandhi

Do It Yourself

How to Update Old Canvas Art

Hello, everyone! Brittany here from by Brittany Goldwyn. Today I have a wall art tutorial for you that’s easy and cheap but has a massive impact! This is how to update an old canvas art!

The original canvas was a piece we bought many years ago during an Ikea trip. It holds the dubious title of being the only thing I’ve ever regretted purchasing from Ikea. I don’t even know why we got it…it isn’t my style. We needed something about this size for a space in our old apartment, so I settled. It isn’t a good idea to settle on something you look at every day. 🙂

So instead of chucking the canvas, it collected dust until I decided to use it for a project.Now I’m so happy I had it for this project!

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Old canvas
Hand-held staple gun
Scissors
Tapestry of your choice (little owl is here!)

Optional:

Iron and ironing board
Neutral-colored paint
Small roller

Instructions:

Step 1: If your old canvas is very colorful, you might want to paint over it. Many tapestries are thin and lightweight, and you don’t want to be able to see the canvas’s original design through the fabric.

Grab the closest can of neutral-colored paint you have on hand and use a little roller like this for quick coverage:

Step 2: After the painted canvas is completely dry, iron your tapestry. Time to begin attaching it to the canvas. To get an idea of how you want to place your tapestry, prop the canvas up against a wall and drape the tapestry over it. Make marks on the back of the tapestry if necessary.

Step 3: Lay the tapestry over a large workspace face down. The floor is fine if you don’t have a big desk or counter. Carefully lower your canvas onto the tapestry according to the placement you decided in step 2.

Step 4: Begin attaching the tapestry to the canvas by folding the fabric over the back of the canvas and stapling in a straight line.

Step 5: Once one side is completely secured, use your scissors to trim the fabric on the remaining three sides. Remember to leave enough on each side to fold over and staple in place.

Tip: Occasionally prop the canvas up and check for wrinkles or uneven stapling. You want to pull the fabric tight as you’re stapling each side in place. Staple opposing sides first. Start with the bottom, then pull the fabric up around the top and attach there. Then tackle the sides. When you staple the sides in place, wrap the corners tight and neat like you would a present.

Ready to see the final updated canvas? First here’s a reminder of the before…

And the after! I’m in love. Isn’t he adorable? And it was such an easy update, too!

If you liked this, definitely check out my abstract painted black and gold leaf canvas art, which uses an old canvas as well! Or my oversized faux canvas wall art, which is so massive that I had to build my own frame! You might also like Brittany’s tutorial for creating a giant abstract ocean painting.

Until next month, Pretty Handy Girl readers!

March 15, 2017/13 Comments/by Brittany Goldwyn

Tag Archive for: diy

Materials:

How to Make a Hanging Garden Tool Organizer:

Materials:

Instructions:

Step 2: Assemble the top

Step 3: Cut corners for legs

Step 4: Attach the legs

Step 5: Add bottom supports

Step 6: Finish