Smart Tips on Installing Concrete Paver Edging

Transform your outdoor living space with this step-by-step guide on how to install concrete paver edging with tips from professionals with a lasting finish.

Edging can be a beautiful and decorative addition to your landscaping. It can delineate two different landscape materials, but can also prevent lighter weight materials (like mulch and fine gravel) from washing out during rain storms.

Ultimately landscape edging is one element that easily adds value and a professional touch to a multitude of outdoor spaces. It is a game changer for any front yard, backyard, pathway, or outdoor living space. And, it’s one of the easiest hardscape projects to accomplish for homeowners.

Today I’m back to share the simple steps for paver installations around an area (like a patio or pathway) in your backyard.

There are many types of edging you can chose from and various products in your local home improvement or landscaping supply store. Landscape edging is available in many materials: plastic, steel, poured concrete, natural stone, and wood.

It’s up to you to choose materials that will fit with your landscape style. But, today we are sharing our years of experience to show you how to install concrete paver edging (a great paver edging product in our opinion). Concrete pavers are beautiful, long lasting, and can be a very affordable choice for edging around your flower beds or garden.

Ready to learn how to install your own concrete edging? You can definitely do this without a professional paver installer!

Materials for Concrete Paver Installations:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Concrete Pavers (you can use any pavers, but this is the best choice in our opinion)
Rubber Mallet
Landscape Stone
Drainage Gravel
Bedding Sand (optional)
Flat Shovel
Spray marking chalk (optional)
Gloves

Installing Concrete Paver Edging:

In the above photo we used standard plastic edging at first. We had installed it while building out this gravel pathway but the plastic rails weren’t performing the way we had hoped for in this particular area and we were looking for a less maintenance and less erosion in the long run.

Anytime we had a lot of rain, the gravel would wash over the plastic edge re-straint. We decided to scrap the plastic edging and use some extra concrete pavers to provide more stability between the two areas.

Preparation:

Use a hose or straight edge to mark where your edging will be installed. You can use straight runs for a more formal look, or use curves for more visual interest. Dig out any grass and remove any obstacles (or relocate your edging for objects that can’t be moved.)

If your paver edging is on a hill or needs to hold back dirt, you may need to use some paver edge restraint systems (like spikes, underpinning, or a retaining wall).

Instructions:

Step 1: Use a shovel, hand trowel, or use your hands to dig out an area slightly wider than the pavers. For best results dig down about three inches to allow for a one inch layer of drainage gravel, one inch of bedding sand, and one inch so the bottom of the pavers will be set in the ground and the top of the paver will be slightly raised above the ground level.

Step 2: Level the dirt (base) so that the pavers will be level when laid next to each other. (You may need to remove any leaves or fallen tree debris to achieve a nice level surface.) Add one inch of gravel on top of the dirt. Then add an inch of bedding sand.

(Note, we skipped the bedding sand and had gravel mixed in with the dirt already. But, we live in Florida where there’s not a frost or freeze-thaw cycles in our ground. If you live in a colder climate, you may want to dig deeper and use the gravel and sand layers mentioned above.)

Step 3: Starting at one end, begin laying your pavers next to each other.

Work one paver at a time, adjusting the soil & stone underneath to level it with the adjacent stones.

Step 4: To avoid the frustration of paver edge separation, use the rubber mallet, strike the end of each paver to secure it as tightly as possible to the previously laid one.

Tamp the top of the paver with a rubber mallet or hammer to set it in place and compact the gravel underneath. Making sure that each paver is level with the one before it.

Step 5: When you arrive at a curve in your design, create a gradual bend. Make sure the corners of the pavers meet at one point. You may have to re-position the pavers a few times to get it to fit just right!

Tips for working with curves:

Adjust the spacing between pavers, so that the gap is similar for each paver. Instead of a large gap between two pavers, spread the gap over multiple pavers (5 or 6) so it isn’t as drastic a turn.
Use a garden hose or string to lay out curves, but you can also use spray marking chalk to help with the layout. Draw a curve on the ground using the marking paint and step back to take a look. If you don’t like it or want to fix specific areas on the curve, scratch the paint off with your foot and re-draw your line.
Check your work as you go along! Step back, take a deep breath and see if you need to make adjustments. Don’t try to conquer Rome in a single pass! We have found that by stepping back to look at the projects as you go is a great way to make adjustments instead of having to go back when you think everything is done. It is also a great way to appreciate the work you have completed and gain a greater sense of accomplishment.

Step 6: Fill in the gaps with landscape gravel if creating a pathway. (Alternatively, if you don’t mind the mess, you could mix a bag of concrete and trowel it into the voids.)

Where the pavers do not meet completely, fill in with small landscape gravel (or standard concrete) to give a cohesive look.

Fill your second area with a contrasting material (like mulch, pine straw, soil, grass or other natural elements.

If you liked this concrete paver project tutorial, you may also want to learn about 10 pathways that are great alternatives to concrete:

Want more landscaping ideas? See how to add a mulch and stone path in a few hours:

How to Create an Inexpensive Stone & Mulch Walkway

Or learn the basics of landscaping your yard:

Landscaping 101: Tools, Planting, and Adding Color to your Landscaping | Pretty Handy Girl

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Installing Concrete Paver Edging | Pretty Handy Girl

June 11, 2025/4 Comments/by Diane and Dean

Landscaping, Landscaping & Gardening

10 Creative Concrete-Free Walkway Ideas for Your Home

Pathways around your home can be functional (protecting grass, your feet, or creating a smooth surface to walk on.) Paths can be whimsical, natural, utilitarian, or decorative. Today I’ll share 10 creative concrete-free walkway ideas for your home and gardens.

Alternatives to Concrete Walkways

Spring is around the corner and that means more time spent outside. If you’re looking to improve your landscaped pathways, you’ll want to check out these lasting alternatives to concrete walkways. Many are DIY-friendly and can be accomplished in a weekend. Others might require a professional landscaping crew.

Concrete is the most commonly chosen material for a front sidewalk. It is quick and simple to install. Plus, cement can last for a long time barring any damage from frost heaving and improper installation. Paths to the front door are usually straight forward and easy to navigate. (Imagine if your movers had to navigate a bumpy or uneven path into your home.) But, concrete cement isn’t the only option available to homeowners. Feel free to do something a little different from the Joneses. Here are a few of the many options for creating lasting pathways in your landscaping (not just the front entryway.)

Exposed Aggregate

A slightly more decorative pathway than your traditional cement sidewalk. This path has smooth pebbles that are embedded in the concrete and exposed (after hosing off) on the top layer for a durable and texturally appealing walkway. Exposed aggregate should last as long as a concrete and sometimes longer if an epoxy resin method is used.

Concrete Pavers

cobblestone concrete paver pathway and organic shaped larger paver walkway

The Europeans have many beautiful romantic cobblestone streets. But, walking on them could be a little like balancing on a tightrope. Modern advances have developed pavers that look like cobblestones but are a lot less likely to cause you to roll your ankle. Pavers are available in a wide variety of shapes, styles, and colors. There are even concrete pavers that look like bricks. Because they are manufactured, concrete pavers are uniform in size making them easy to install. Another advantage of using pavers is if damaged, a section can be removed and re-installed.

Concrete Paver-Edged Pathways

Create lasting borders, but save some money and effort on laying a full paver pathway, you’ll appreciate a concrete paver edged path. Use pavers as the edgings but then fill your path with any material you like. Crushed limestone or granite make excellent pathway bases. But, you can also use inexpensive mulch or pine straw. Here’s a great tutorial on laying your own concrete paver edging.

Brick Pavers

A long pathway of bricks harkens back to colonial times. Believe it or not, bricks are produced in a variety of colors and textures. If you like the old antique look, buy some tumbled bricks that have rounded corners. Even more fun than picking the style is picking a pattern. Brick patterns are almost infinite. Herringbone, running bond, basket weave, and jack on jack are just some of the patterns you can create with bricks. Similar to the concrete pavers, damage can be fixed fairly easily. But, be forewarned, if you don’t lay your brick pathway correctly, it will begin to change shape over time.

Natural Stone

Bluestone, Cantera, Flagstone, Granite, Limestone, Marble, Porphyry, Sandstone, Slate and Travertine are all stone slabs that can be used for stone pavers. These flat slabs of rock make them ideal for wider pathways and patios. The beauty of using stone is that no two are identical because they are all-natural from the earth. If you’re looking to create your own, this is a good starting tutorial.

Crushed Stone

Crushed stone, decomposed granite, and a hybrid of crushed stone and polymer are inexpensive alternatives to an expansive pathway. Typically found in bridal paths, this material is a good choice for controlling dust and mud. To contain the material, consider using stones, landscape edging, or pavers to create a lasting border.

Permeable Pavers

Honeycomb and grid-like pavers are often seen where water runoff is discouraged. Grass, moss, or small gravel can be inserted between the pavers for more color. The large holes in this path allow water to permeate back into the earth. They are very environmentally friendly and graphically pleasing to the eye. But, they are also sturdy enough for a car to drive over.

Boardwalk Decking

This type of pathway is usually built over wet, soggy, or sandy expanses. Most often seen in coastal or modern architecture, this material can last for years if pressure-treated lumber or composite decking material is chosen. To build your own lasting boardwalk decking, follow this tutorial. Real wood will require staining or sealing to keep the wood from rotting.

Stepping Stones

Bring yourself back to your childhood with a fun stepping stone path. This pathway is a fun and quirky trail to walk on. There are a multitude of materials that can be used for stepping stones. Any large stones and/or pavers can be set on the ground and then surrounded by pea gravel, mulch, grass or left natural. But don’t limit yourself to stones in this application. Hardwood tree stumps can also stand in for stepping stones. The tree stumps will deteriorate over time, but you can slow the process by sealing them with an exterior varnish and/or allow proper drainage around them.

Using mulch, stepping stones, and edging is one of the easiest ways to create a mulch and stepping stone path! Create your own like the one shown above in less than three hours.

Stamped or Stained Concrete

We’ve come full circle back to concrete. There are so many ways to jazz up a regular concrete path. Consider stamped and/or stained concrete to add some color and to fool the eye. Stamped patterns are numerous with styles that look like bricks, slate, cobblestone and even cracked earth! For more personalized options, choose any color combination to stain your concrete.

As you can see, you can create a variety of looks for the paths in your yard. Many are DIY-friendly and some may require professional installation. What were your favorites? Do you have ideas for lasting alternatives to a concrete walkway?

Ready to improve the look of your outdoor area with pathways around your home or garden? These are some great step-by-step tutorials for DIY walkways:

February 14, 2025/0 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

Home & Auto Maintenance, Home Maintenance, Landscaping, Landscaping & Gardening, Millie's Remodel

Millie’s Remodel Update: Exterior Front Reveal

Get a load of this transformation! See Millie’s Remodel and her exterior front reveal. Plus, I’m sharing tips to help you keep your home protected from termites when landscaping.

Millie’s Remodel Update: Exterior Front Reveal

This update of the Millie’s Remodel project is sponsored by Corteva, the makers of Sentricon. I’m grateful to have Sentricon on board as a Millie’s Remodel sponsor!

Although I still have a lot to catch you up on inside the Millie’s Remodel house, the exterior siding, brick, and front door has been painted. I chose a pretty bright blue for the front door. It’s Loyal Blue from Sherwin Williams.

I built the shutters using leftover tongue and groove planks from the porch overhangs. I promise to share a tutorial for you in the near future.

And I added a modern address plaque beside the door. Also, a DIY I’ll share a tutorial for later.

Although the shutters have been hung and the house numbers look amazing, I feel like something is missing. The house feels a bit naked from the waist down if you catch my drift. It needs some landscaping!

Unfortunately, I’m a little over budget on all the renovations at Millie’s Remodel, so I need to save some money on the landscaping. I decided to plant a few bushes out front and call it done.

Budget Landscaping for a Mid-Century Modern House:

With my budget being under $200, I was able to put in some foundation plantings and one feature plant to give Millie a more finished look outside.

I planted three Fatsio Japonica bushes (the wider bushes with bigger leaves).

Between the Japonicas, I planted two Golden Ticket privet bushes. They should fill in a little over time, but for now, they certainly help ground the house.

For the feature item, I chose a pretty yellow Amber Gold arborvitae for the small bed between the front door and the driveway. I like the color and the tall skinny look of this tree. When full-grown it may be up to 5′ wide and 10′ tall. But, hopefully, it won’t reach full width and can stay a little narrower. I’ll have to keep an eye on it and trim the sides if it starts to get too big.

Luckily, I had a pile of wood chips in the backyard where I had to take out a large rotted tree that was hanging over the house. I was able to use the chips as fresh mulch around the plantings.

Although it’s hard to tell, in the above photo, I kept a barrier of bare earth (and no wood chips) against the foundation of the house. Why? Let me take a moment to talk about how to landscape while keeping your house protected from termites.

Landscaping While Keeping Your Home Termite Free:

I know we live in an area that is overpopulated with termites, so I’m very careful about protecting my homes from conditions that could lead to a termite infestation. Most plants need moisture to stay alive, but unfortunately, termites love wet mushy wood because it’s easier to chew and more tempting! For that reason, it’s important to pay attention to moisture around your home’s foundation. All the tips below will help you reduce the likelihood that termites will find your home tasty.

When spreading mulch around plantings, keep it away from the house. Leave at least a one-foot perimeter along the foundation clear of mulch and other organic matter
Plant bushes so as to maintain a three-foot clearance from your home (be sure to look at the mature height and width information on new plantings)
Never pile firewood, lumber, mulch, soil, or other “termite-friendly” matter against your house
Don’t use wood timbers or lumber to create garden beds against your house
Install gutters and use downspouts to move water away from the foundation
Always make sure your land is graded with a slope away from your house
Keep gutters clear of debris to prevent them from overflowing.
Contract with a good termite treatment company (you can read how I chose Sentricon in this post.)
Keep up with scheduled inspections with your termite company.

My local termite company that installed the Sentricon system came back two weeks ago to check on the system to see if there was any termite activity and inspect the bait stations to see if they needed to be replaced. My technician was able to find most of the bait stations from the map he created during installation.

But, if the stations were buried, he could use the detector to find them.

You can learn more about the Sentricon system and how it’s installed by watching my previous video:

We saw some minor evidence that they had found the stations. This is good because it means they are feeding off the bait stations and taking it back to the colony.

Unfortunately, the memory card in my camera was corrupt, or I’d show you the bait station after almost a year. Luckily, Sarah has an excellent photo of her Sentricon bait station after being in the ground for almost a year.

A Look Back at Millie’s Front Exterior Transformation:

Together, I think the landscaping (although only 6 plants and some mulch) and painting made a big difference. We should look back to when I first bought the house. Remember how she looked? The greenery you see was all weeds!

Then, after painting, she looks great, but still needs some architectural pizzazz.

Finally, the shutters and painted front door made a big difference, but she was a tad naked around her base.

Now she has some beautiful modern greenery out front.

Did I do okay on my minimal budget?

Disclosure: This is a sponsored post for Corteva, the makers of Sentricon. I was provided complimentary termite protection for a year and was compensated for my time and efforts to promote Sentricon. I was not told what to write. All opinions are my own. I am particular about the brands I represent and will always let you know when you are reading a sponsored post.

July 10, 2020/3 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

Landscaping, Landscaping & Gardening, Plants, Toolbox

Landscaping 101 – How to Create Beautiful Garden Beds

Ever notice your neighbor has a beautiful flower garden bed with lots of thriving plants but you can’t seem to grow anything but rocks? I have the solution to your garden woes. Here’s your Landscaping 101 Course: how to create beautiful garden beds.

Landscaping 101 – How to Create Beautiful Garden Beds

When we bought our first home 13 years ago, we were lured by the idea of having at least half an acre of land. Little did we know that it would involve LOTS and LOTS of yard work. Over the years we’ve learned several tips and tricks to creating beautiful landscaping that will last for decades. If you’re a new homeowner (or still trying to find your green thumb), here’s the Landscaping 101 course to help you hit the ground running. I’ll be sharing which yard tools are essential, how to pick the right plants, how to plant them, and how to add color to your landscaping. Pull up a stump and lets dig in!

Assess Landscaping Needs:

Do you have a variety of colors in your landscaping? Unfortunately a soccer ball, flag, and garden ornament don’t really count. Attractive landscaping will have a variety of colors, textures, and tones to create variety and interest.

The great news is that you can remedy this situation in an afternoon (or less time depending on how much planting you need to do.)

Take a good hard look at your existing landscaping. What’s working for you and what is…ummm…dying. It’s okay to give up on shrubs and plants that are dying. If you just can’t stand the thought of killing them, transplant sickly plants in a less visible spot to give them a second chance. But, don’t leave them in your front beds where they aren’t adding any curb appeal.

As an alternative, if a sad-looking plant previously thrived in that location but it took a hit from frost (or a well-played soccer ball). You can try to save it by trimming the plant back to green stalks or near the ground. That’s exactly what I did to this Confederate Jasmine. I pruned it back to see if it would come back.

I also planted a new one right next to the old one for instant color and fragrance. That way the old one can take its time growing back while no one notices its stubbiness.

Make a list of the holes you have in your landscape. Note the sun and soil conditions there. Take your list with you when you go plant shopping.

How to Choose Appropriate Plants for your Landscape:

Be sure to shop for your flowering plants at a local reputable plant nursery. Picking up plants at the grocery store or other big box store will result in less than the hardiest plants. Nurseries take care to stock plants that thrive well in your climate. They are also more healthy and disease-free. Finally, the staff at the nursery is more knowledgeable and can help you choose plants that will do well in your garden. The grocery store cashier probably can’t help you with that!

If possible, shop for flowering plants at the time that you want them to bloom in your yard! A successful flower bed will have staggered blooms throughout the Spring – Fall. If you fill your flower bed over time, you’ll be sure to have blooms that appear at different times as opposed to picking all your beautiful blooming plants in one shopping trip. But, if you’re more of the once and done type, ask the nursery staff for a variety of plants that will stagger their blooms.

Sun and Shade Requirements:

Choose plants that will thrive in the existing conditions in your yard. It’s a great idea to map your landscape area and note the sun and shade areas on an hourly basis. Select plants based on those shade/sun requirements.

Full sun = At least 6 hours of direct sun
Partial Sun = 3-6 hours of sun per day. The plant must receive direct light for at least 3 hours.
Partial Shade = 3-6 hours of sun per day. The plant must receive shade to help cool the plant later in the afternoon.
Shade = Less than 3 hours of sun per day. But, the plant should receive some additional dappled sun throughout the day. No sun equals no life.

Also pay attention to your soil and drainage. A well-drained soil will dry several hours after watering. Damp soil will stay moist and wet for at least a day after watering.

*A good tip is to save your plant tags and receipts. Most reputable nurseries will have a warranty on the plants they sell. Ask them for more information.

How to Choose Yard Tools:

A good starter set of landscaping tools are:

Round Point Shovel – used for digging and transferring plants
Bow Rake – used for leveling and loosening soil, spreading mulch, and ground cover
Garden Spade Shovel – used for digging trenches, transplanting and edging beds
Wheelbarrow – your best friend when it comes to hauling yard material
Garden Trowel – A small trowel for planting, transplanting, digging up bulbs, moving dirt, potting, and much more!
Cultivator – used for loosening and breaking up tough soil, removing rocks, weeding and aerating
Warren Hoe – used for creating and planting rows of seeds and harvesting underground vegetables
Leaf Rake – if you have deciduous trees, you NEED a leaf rake to remove fallen leaves
Pruning Shears – a sharp pair of pruning shears are used for pruning, cutting blooms and dead limbs from bushes and plants
Garden gloves – a good pair of garden gloves will protect your hands from thorns, scratches and dreaded poison ivy (or poison oak.)

If you’re new to landscaping, I’m going to give you some good advice about buying tools. As I recommend with power tools, don’t cheap out when buying landscaping tools. If you buy quality garden and landscape tools, they should last you a lifetime. If you go for the less expensive tools, you’ll likely spend more in the long run when you have to replace a broken or worn out tool.

For example, we have a shovel that has lasted us for over 10 years now. We’ve put that baby to good use digging in the rocky and clay-filled NC soil. Some of the other tools we bought didn’t make it that long. Either the handles snapped or the tines on a rake bent over continued use. Buying two of the same tool means it would have been smarter and more economical to purchase quality from the start. (Live and learn.)

Good tools should be ergonomic, comfortable, and made with quality materials that won’t break or bend over time. Look for strong defect-free handles. They are easy to hold and are good shock absorbers. Check for quality metal and wood parts. Plastic will dry and crack after only a few years of heavy use.

How to Plant Shrubs and Flowers that will Thrive:

Assess the health of your plants. Remove any diseased or dying plants. You don’t want them infecting your new greenery. Use a round point shovel to dig a circle around the root ball. Use your foot to step on the top of the shovel to get further depth and force to cut roots. When the plant is free, remove and toss, or transplant it to a new location.

Dig a hole at least two times the size of the new plant’s root ball. And several inches deeper.

Break up rocky and hard soil with a Warren hoe or cultivator (or both!) The cultivator works great at getting all the big rocks out of the way.

Fill the bottom of the hole with good organic compost. This stuff is black gold! A good compost pile will be full of worms working to turn your kitchen scraps into super nutrient-rich soil for your plants. I’ll have to write a separate post on how I compost. If you don’t have access to organic compost, purchase a bag of good gardening soil to use. Mix the compost and dirt with the cultivator or hoe. The soil should have good drainage and no large chunks.

To free your plant from its pot, make a fist and pound around the outside of the pot. Gently tip the pot upside down while supporting your plant by its trunk. Gently lay the plant on its side.

Use the hand trowel to slice into the rootball. This is especially important if your plant is root-bound. This will encourage the plant to expand and grow new roots out into the earth.

Set the plant upright in the hole you dug.

Fill around the root ball and cover the top of the root ball slightly with more soil/compost mixture.

Step around the base of your plant to eliminate air holes. It’s important to get good soil contact with the roots and eliminate air pockets.

Water your newly planted flowers and plants daily for two weeks or more. Then taper off the watering to help them grow their roots between watering

Mulch:

Adding mulch around your plants in the beds adds more than an attractive look. It keeps moisture in the soil and controls weeds. To weigh your options on which type of mulch you want to use, you’ll probably find this Mulch Selection Guidelines List helpful.

Save your back and energy by filling a wheelbarrow with mulch and bring it to your beds. Make sure the front wheel has plenty of air. Or learn how to replace a wheelbarrow tire that never goes flat!

Spread the mulch 2 – 3″ deep around your plants with a bow rake. Anything less than 2″ won’t control weeds or retain moisture.

Container Gardening:

Potted plants help you “fake it until you make it!” A few potted plants with annual flowers in them is a great way to add pops of color exactly where you want them. They’ll draw attention to their color and blooms and detract from any landscape beds that are between blooms.

When they stop blooming you can pop in another container of flowers. Container gardening is the perfect activity for fickle gardeners because you can constantly change the look with new colors and plants. Learn all the basics for growing your own container gardens here.

Annuals are great for instant color, but once they are spent they won’t return next year. If you prefer to avoid yearly planting, buy perennials to put in your pots. They will re-bloom year after year.

For a more portable arrangements, fill small lightweight pots or containers on wheels. (I had fun turning this old Radio Flyer wagon into a portable planter. Now I can wheel the wagon anywhere I want to add more color.)

Added Color to the Landscape:

Remember that “artificial colored” landscaping before?

Within an afternoon it got a makeover worthy of an HGTV curb appeal segment.

Before the sad little gardenia was barely thriving.

Presto! Instant color and blooms from a newly planted pink hydrangea.

New rose bushes bring some fragrance and color to the previously color-lacking front bed. I had no idea there were yellow knockout roses, but as soon as I saw them at the nursery, I had to have them. If you don’t know about knock-out roses, they are much hardier and disease-resistant than their ancestors! Win!

A few foxglove plants add some height and visual interest to the flower bed.

Much better! In a week those irises around the flag and the big rose bush in the middle will be brimming with color.

Our front landscaping beds are my new happy place!

We get compliments from anyone who comes to our house (which is primarily the UPS and FedEx driver lately. Thanks guys!)

Do tell me, do you have any landscaping tips or secrets to share? Or maybe you have a favorite plant in your yard. Please tell me more!

June 17, 2019/74 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

Build It, Landscaping, Landscaping & Gardening, Saving Etta

How to Build a Window Pane Lattice Privacy Fence and Gate

I should probably re-name this post How to Build a Window Pane Lattice Semi-Privacy Fence. But, honestly it’s only semi-private because the lots in downtown Raleigh are so close together and the next door neighbor’s driveway is against the privacy fence. All they have to do is lean against the fence and peek through to eliminate the “privacy” function. But, if we’re going to be honest here, their six foot picket privacy fence has cracks in it where the picket wood has shrunk. And, yes, you can see through their privacy fence too. But, in a suburban neighborhood, this fence would block the view from the road or a distance.

When I was considering fencing options for the Saving Etta project, I wanted to create a beautiful fence that was attractive to look at but also gives some privacy and security.

Why I chose to use a window pane lattice fence:

I love the look. It’s a mixture of cottage and modern. And it’s perfect for a modern farmhouse style house.
The new owners can train a flowering vine to grow up the lattice and create more privacy.
It’s neighborly being able to see and talk to your neighbors next door. It fosters community!

As we drew closer to the holidays, I knew I had to push the accelerator on all the remaining projects at the Saving Etta project. Therefore, I did not build this fence, I hired a fence contractor to build it. But, I did design the fence and shared my design idea with the contractor. I took some inspiration from my Pergola with Trellis Screens.

The following tutorial is a basic construction guide for How to Build a Window Pane Lattice Privacy Fence and Gate. I didn’t oversee the construction, so I’m going to make some suggested fasteners, but ultimately you should gauge the strength of your fasteners especially when building the gate. If your gate is wider, you may need an additional cross or diagonal brace.

Tools & Materials:

6×6 Pressure Treated posts (be sure you have 1/3 to 1/2 the height of your fence extra to sink into the ground)
4’x8′ Window Pane Lattice (I found mine at Home Depot)
2″ x 6″ pressure treated lumber
2″ x 4″ pressure treated lumber
1″ x 4″ pressure treated lumber
2″ x 2″ pressure treated lumber
Level
Pencil
Tape measure
Power sander
Drill
Nailgun (my newest cordless obsession)
Jigsaw
Circular saw
Speed Square
Kreg Jig
2½” Pocket hole screws
½” exterior screws
2″ exterior grade finish nails (for nail gun)
1 ½” exterior grade finish nails

Before we get started, I want to express a huge thank you to Wood It’s Real for being a Saving Etta sponsor. As you might remember, they sponsored the side porch and the front flat sawn balluster project. And now, I have the honor of sharing yet another Wood It’s Real Sponsored project. Let’s learn How to Build Window Pane Lattice Privacy Fence and Gate using beautiful Southern Yellow Pine.

This build will take at least two days. Digging the post holes, setting the posts, and pouring the concrete for the posts can be completed on day one. But, you’ll want to wait overnight for the concrete to set up before building the fence panels. For more information on setting fence posts, you might find this tutorial by Quikrete helpful.

Before building your fence, be sure to research your local building codes; know if you have to meet any setback limits, and find out if you have any restrictive covenants for your neighborhood.

Building a Window Pane Lattice Fence:

To create the tall privacy fence, we used one 4′ x 8′ lattice sheet vertically between the posts. Therefore, our posts were set four feet apart. After your 6×6 fence posts are set in the ground, you can start building your lattice fence sections between the posts.

Instructions:

Measure and cut two 2×6 pieces of pressure treated lumber to fit between the top and bottom of the posts. Level and secure to the 6×6 posts using exterior grade wood screws.

Center your 4×8 lattice panel in the center of the 6×6 posts. Cut 2×2 lumber to create a frame to support the lattice.

Secure the 2×2 frame to the inside of the 6×6 posts and the 2×6 horizontal lumber. You can use wood screws or 2″ finish nails to secure the 2×2 frame. Add another 2×2 frame to the other side of your lattice.

Add post caps to the top of your fence to protect the posts from rot (and to make your fence look pretty.)

Repeat the steps above to create as many window pane lattice fence sections as you desire.

Depending on the angle of sight, you can see some shapes through the fence. This is the view from the bathroom window. I’ll be sharing how I added complete privacy to this window in a later blog post.

From the bedroom you can barely see the neighbor’s car through the fence.

How to Build a Window Pane Lattice Gate:

To match the window pane lattice fence, I challenged my fence contractor to build matching lattice gates at the end of the driveway. I wanted the opening to be wide enough to drive a car through (should they want to park in the back of the house or get a delivery of mulch or other landscaping materials.)

Instructions:

Measure and cut your 2×4 pressure treated lumber. For a 4′ x 8′ gate, cut the vertical pieces exactly 8′ in length. The top and bottom pieces should be cut 41″ long. Secure the frame with pocket hole screws in the corners of the frame. (Click here to learn how to use a pocket hole jig.)

Lay the 4×8 lattice panel on top of the 2×4 frame. Tack the lattice in place using 1 ½” finish nails.

Measure and cut your 1×4 lumber using the same measurements as the 2×4’s.

Secure the 1×4 boards to the lattice and the 2×4’s using 2 ½” exterior wood screws. (The lattice will be sandwiched in the middle and the screws should extend through the 1×4’s and the lattice and into the 2×4 frame.)

Your gate construction is complete. Add hinges and gate hardware and secure to a 6×6 post.

These gates are rock solid and shouldn’t sag over time. The lattice keeps the gate square.

For a decorative touch, we added two 2×6 pieces of lumber across the two gate posts to create a pergola. The new owners can put a potted vine next to each post and allow the vines to grow up and over the pergola.

A metal drop rod is secured to the left side gate for stability and to keep both gates from swinging in when latching.

The window pane lattice provides plenty of privacy from the road. But, it also allows the homeowners a view to see if anyone is coming up the driveway.

What do you think? Do you like the window pane lattice fence and gates? Would you leave it natural or stain it?

Disclosure: This post is a sponsored post for Wood It’s Real. It was written as part of their sponsorship of the Saving Etta project. I was not told what to write. All words and opinions are my own. I am very particular about the brands I work with, and only partner with companies that provide quality materials and/or services.

January 25, 2019/4 Comments/by Brittany Bailey