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Caulking and Painting the Board and Batten

If you are just joining me and missed the tutorial for building board and batten moulding, you can view that tutorial HERE. Today I want to show you how to hide the holes, seams and how to paint the board and batten moulding. Plus, how I paint the wall so it looks more like wood and not like drywall.

Start by taping off the moulding. I used ScotchBlue painter’s tape with edge lock technology because 3M just sent me these rolls to try out.

If you are re-painting the crown moulding and the door, tape them off as well.

Usually I fill the nail holes with wood putty. Then I fill seams with caulk. To view a tutorial on filling holes with wood putty, click HERE.

I actually just read about a neat tip on Diane’s blog (who also just added board and batten moulding in her bathroom.)  She uses ice cubes and cold water for working with caulk. I’ve never tried this, but am happy to report that it really helps smooth the caulk and keeps it from sticking to your fingers.


Which caused me to amend the Pretty Handy Girl’s tried-and-true caulking method:

  1. Squeeze out your bead of caulk, using a caulk gun.
  2. Dip finger in the ice cold water.
  3. Run your finger along the bead to smooth it.

Seal every seam in your moulding and then let it dry.

Once all the putty and caulk has dried, get the primer out. Paint primer on all the wood moulding using a paint brush. In the center (drywall areas), you can roll on the primer.

But, before the primer dries use the brush to spread it in long vertical strokes.

After the primer has dried, go ahead and add one coat of paint. Follow the same direction of strokes with the brush as you did when priming.

I made a video to show you the technique I used to give the wall a wood grain texture. Please forgive the painting clothes and unwashed hair! I haven’t hired a hair, makeup and costume stylist yet.

I have yet to be able to get away with only one coat of paint. If you look close you can still see some of the blue wall color showing through.

After the paint has dried, it is time to remove the tape. Anywhere that you caulked between the wood and the tape, you need to score the caulk to give it a clean edge when you remove the tape.

Remove the tape and looky at that clean edge! I’ve used ScotchBlue painter’s tape before, but I can honestly tell you that the new Edge lock technology is a big improvement. As long as you press the edges down firmly there is hardly any places where paint seeped underneath. The only places seepage occurred was where there was a dimple or imperfection in the wall.

One thing I didn’t caulk was the light switch plate which I had to cut to fit next to the batten. I will probably go back and add a little caulk between the switch plate and the moulding.

I hope you learned something today. Coming up next, the bathroom reveal!

15 replies
  1. Michele
    Michele says:

    I LOVE your blog! Very interesting tip using the ice water when caulking. I have miles and miles of caulking to do — just trimmed out every door jamb, doorway, and window in my entire home — and was looking at how to make it neater. After I smooth a few times, the caulk starts getting lumpy where it begins to dry on my fingers because all of it doesn’t come off on the paper towel. I’ve tried wiping my fingers on a wet towel, but still end up having to stop and wash my hands thoroughly before continuing. I’m really hoping the ice trick will help me out.

    I’ve never scored my caulk because I can’t cut a straight line. I’ve always just caulked right over the wall, painted my trim, then gone back and cut in the wall color on top of my caulk line. I seem to get a crisper edge that way.

    3M is sending you free tape?? I’m jealous. 🙂 I love their painters’ tape, but it’s sooooo expensive. I just paid $12 for a 3″ wide 60 yard roll. Ugh. But it’s great when you really need it (I’m gel staining my kitchen cabinets).

  2. Leona
    Leona says:

    Serfuję online wiecej aniżeli trzy godziny dziennie i do tej pory nie trafiłam na tak ciekawe forum jak Twoje.
    Osobiście uważam, że jeśli wszyscy webmasterzy
    dawali tyle z siebie interent byłby w wyższym stopniu wartościowy.

  3. AnnW
    AnnW says:

    You are so good at directions, but I don’t understand the “score the caulk” business. Can you add a drawing so I can figure out which side to score? Thanks nutbird

  4. Mugsy
    Mugsy says:

    I love this look and would love to try it out on my kids’ bathroom.

    Just a little worried about all of the power tools. May need to call in a few favors.

    Can you rent a nailer like that for a weekend?

  5. Kas3dot0
    Kas3dot0 says:

    Hi Brittany. Thanks for posting this. Can’t wait to see the reveal. Love the video and it was like you were reading my mind. I wanted to know if it was possible to make the open or drywall part look authentic like a board was really there even though it is drywall. This really is inspiring me to get started on my bathroom asap.

    What type of miter cut should you do if you do run into like the light switch or the counter?


  6. Diane@InMyOwnStyle
    Diane@InMyOwnStyle says:

    Hi Brittany-

    You did such a fabulous job with the board and batten. I love the extra details you added. Very classic and kicks it up a notch on the style scale. Your tutorial is wonderful. I enjoyed the video.I smiled when I saw the paint on your elbow. 🙂 I seem to always have paint specs on me, too. I get rid of one , only to get another. Thanks for the mention.

    My best- Diane

  7. Kathy
    Kathy says:

    Wow! Looks Great! & great tip on the ice water.
    I just painted white over blue on the lower paneling in a bedroom of the cottage we are renovating.
    Like you, I did some areas with a brush (grooves & covering nail holes) & after 3 coats.. I can sort of still see the difference…. I may go back next weekend & paint a 4th coat… : )


Trackbacks & Pingbacks

  1. […] be back to show you how to caulk and paint this beautiful moulding! And then the final reveal of my Boys’ Fishy to Fabulous Bathroom! Finally, a bonus post on […]

  2. […] Caulk, prime and paint your shelf. Then wait about 3 days before resting anything on the shelf to avoid it sticking to the newly painted shelf. […]

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