How to Build a Chunky X Farmhouse Table
How to Build a Chunky X Farmhouse Table
There’s something about 4×4 lumber that makes furniture look amazing. Maybe it’s the sturdiness, maybe it’s the shape. Whatever it is, I love it! A friend of mine recently asked me to build her a new dining table, and I was happy to oblige. She liked the X-Base Pedestal table I built my sister, but wanted a rectangular shape with a heftier top. So I edited the plans a bit to make two straight bases with a stretcher, and used some posts around planked 1×12’s for a beautiful, solid table. It’s certainly heavy enough to last a lifetime! In this post we are gonna learn How to Build a Chunky X Farmhouse Table.
The base uses the same measurements from Ana’s plan. I decided to use 2×6’s for the top and bottom to make it even more sturdy looking.
Another nice change this time was splurging on pretty hardware. I used 5″ lag screws instead of screws, and it really does lend the table a professional feel.
The top was quick and easy to put together. I just have three 1×12’s planked together with kreg pocket holes, and used the same pocket holes to attach the posts. Then a few more carriage bolts on the sides help keep the posts together.
This is such a gorgeous set, and may be one I have to re-create for my own dining room! I was happy to build for a friend, and love that it will have a good life in its new home.
You may want to construct the table top and the legs, then move the table into place before connecting the legs to the top. This table will be large and heavy.
Materials you’ll need to build your own Chunky X Base Table:
Please note, using nominal US lumber (i.e. 2×6’s = actual 1.5″ x 5.5″), the finished size of this table should be 41 1/2″ wide x 80″ long x 28″ tall.
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- 3 – 2x6x8′
- 5 – 4x4x8′
- 3 – 1x12x8′
- 2 – 1x3x8′
- 44 – 1/4″ x 5″ lag screws
- Box of 1 ¼” pocket screws
- Box of 2½” wood screws (to assemble bases)
- Wood glue
- 4 – 2×6 @ 30″ cut at a 30 degree angle (top and bottom of table leg bases)
- 2 – 2×6 @ 30″ cut at normal 90 degrees (spacers for on top of table leg bases)
- 4 – 2×6 @ 6″ cut at a 45 degree angle (feet)
- 8 – 4×4 @ 13″ cut at a 45 degree angle (cross bracing for the X shape)
- 2 – 4×4 @ 21 ¼” (center upright support of the table legs)
- 3 – 1×12 @73″ (table top)
- 3 – 1×3 @ 34 ½″(cut this after your 1×12’s are attached to be sure of measurement as 1×12’s can be 11 ¼” to 11 ½”)
- 2 – 4×4 @ 80″ (long border pieces for table top)
- 2 – 4×4 @ 34 ½″ (cut this after your 1×12’s are attached to be sure of measurement)
- 1 – 4×4 @ 61″ (stretcher to connect table legs. Cut after legs and table top are built later in instructions).
Important Note: I highly recommend pre-drilling all holes before driving lag bolts or screws. Choose drill bits that are slightly smaller than your screws and lag bolts. This will prevent the wood from splitting.
Lay the 1×12’s on a flat surface.
Connect three 1” x 12” x 73” with several pocket screws (adding wood glue at the joints) as roughly shown below.
Add additional pocket screws along the perimeter of this table top surface for connecting to the 4×4 border lumber.
Cut two 4×4’s to the same width as your 1×12’s now that they are joined. The measurement should be close to 34 ½”. Cut your three 1×3 cross pieces to the same width.
Drive two lag screws through the corners of the 4″ x 4″ x 80″ lumber into the two 4x4s you just cut. Then secure the three 1×3 cross pieces (using wood glue and/or the 1 ¼” screws) you just cut to the underside of the 1″ x 12″ boards. Space them evenly for the best support, but leave space on the outer edges of your table top for connecting the legs later.
Use four 2 ½” wood screws driven through the 2″ x 6″ x 30″ top and bottom pieces to connect to the 4″ x 4″ x 21 ¼” upright support.
Attach the 4″ x 4″ x 13″ angled pieces to the top and bottom 2″ x 6″s and the upright supports using lag screws (two into the top and bottom of each 4″ x 4″ angled into the 2″ x 6″ pieces.)
Attach the 2″ x 6″ x 6″ feet to the bottom of the table legs with four 2 ½” wood screws on each foot.
Repeat for the other table legs. Your table legs should look like this:
Attaching Table-Top to Legs:
Use 2 ½” wood screws to attach the 2×6 @ 30″ spacers to the underside of the table top where the legs will eventually attach. (This will elevate the table top so you can see all of the table leg as shown when the table top is secured.)
Measure the inside dimension of the table top from one spacer to the other. Cut the last 4×4 to this length (should be approximately 62″.) Attach the two table legs to the 4″ x 4″ x 62″ stretcher and two lag bolts through each leg and into the stretcher as shown below.
Add the table top and secure the legs to the spacers with 2 ½” wood screws through each leg top into the spacer.
And your table is built!
To build benches for your table, you can follow Shanty 2 Chic’s X farmhouse benches which are the same style.
I hope you liked this tutorial for How to Build a Chunky X Farmhouse Table. Be sure to have a helper on hand to help you move this beast! It is definitely made rock solid.
~ Read more of Brooke’s Tutorials ~
If you liked this tutorial, you’ll love the instructions to build your own farmhouse table.
Or How to Build an Indoor/Outdoor Modern Bench:
Awesome! No words. You always go one step beyond.
There is so much great, useful information here. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Thanks again 🙂
We actually had to make changes to this. Because going off these instructions the table top was going to do low so we had to add extra wood with the legs to raise it up
I have built this table and absolutely love it!!!! But I also want to build the bench to go with it but I can’t find the instructions for it. Can you share them?
I want to make this table 32″ tall,what would I need to do to make the “x” on the legs works with the additional height….
Did you add screws to the to of the table leg? Connecting the 4×4 to the 2×6 that would be the under side of the table
Yes, as directed in this instruction line: Attach the two table legs to the 4″ x 4″ x 62″ stretcher and two lag bolts through each leg and into the stretcher as shown below.
What is the height of this table when complete ?
What kind of wood de you recommend to use for the table top?
That depends on what you like. Pine will be easier to work with but is softer and dents easily.
what size is the table after finished?
Using nominal US lumber (i.e. 2×6’s = actual 1.5″ x 5.5″), the finished size of this table should be 41 1/2″ wide x 80″ long x 28″ tall.
I am in love with this table. Thanks so much for the tutorial. I can’t wait to make it. I’m wondering if there’s an alternative to the pocket screws or kreg jig? I have everything else and know how to do it except for pocket screws?
You could use wood glue and screws. Then fill the holes with putty.
Love the table plans! My wife wants me to build one like this, but larger to accommodate 12 people. I plan on adding a third X-frame leg and an additional 1×12. This would make the dimensions roughly 103” long and 53” wide. My question is do you think we can use same dimensions and angles for the legs? Or will the top be too heavy for the existing design? Thanks so much!
If you are adding another leg, I think you should be fine.
Hi I was interested to see if you have posted the list and plans for the benches to match this table
Sorry, I did link to a similar bench.
I. Having trouble figuring out the distance to place the 1x3s and the legs to the table. Are the legs flush with the 4×4 or offset? Thanks and I cant wait to make this for the family!
You should offset them a little to allow leg room if sitting at the ends of the table.
Hey! Currently building this but stuck at the tabletop…we have perimeter pocket screws to attach to 4×4 border and have the lag bolts screwed in each corner…we are just worried that it wont all stay together…. the screws around the perimeter do not look promising that they will hold the 4×4 around the border and we don’t want it falling apart … are we missing something:) thanks!
How long are your pocket screws? They should be enough to hold the 1×12’s to the perimeter. (But, I see your concern, as there aren’t many pocket holes shown on the rendering. I’d add a few more to each side.)
Are your measurements long edge to long edge on the angle cuts?
What color did you use for the stain?