If you are just joining me and missed the tutorial for building board and batten moulding, you can view that tutorial HERE. Today I want to show you how to hide the holes, seams and how to paint the board and batten moulding. Plus, how I paint the wall so it looks more like wood and not like drywall.
Start by taping off the moulding. I used ScotchBlue painter’s tape with edge lock technology because 3M just sent me these rolls to try out.
If you are re-painting the crown moulding and the door, tape them off as well.
Usually I fill the nail holes with wood putty. Then I fill seams with caulk. To view a tutorial on filling holes with wood putty, click HERE.
I actually just read about a neat tip on Diane’s blog (who also just added board and batten moulding in her bathroom.) She uses ice cubes and cold water for working with caulk. I’ve never tried this, but am happy to report that it really helps smooth the caulk and keeps it from sticking to your fingers.
Which caused me to amend the Pretty Handy Girl’s tried-and-true caulking method:
- Squeeze out your bead of caulk, using a caulk gun.
- Dip finger in the ice cold water.
- Run your finger along the bead to smooth it.
Seal every seam in your moulding and then let it dry.
Once all the putty and caulk has dried, get the primer out. Paint primer on all the wood moulding using a paint brush. In the center (drywall areas), you can roll on the primer.
But, before the primer dries use the brush to spread it in long vertical strokes.
After the primer has dried, go ahead and add one coat of paint. Follow the same direction of strokes with the brush as you did when priming.
I made a video to show you the technique I used to give the wall a wood grain texture. Please forgive the painting clothes and unwashed hair! I haven’t hired a hair, makeup and costume stylist yet.
I have yet to be able to get away with only one coat of paint. If you look close you can still see some of the blue wall color showing through.
After the paint has dried, it is time to remove the tape. Anywhere that you caulked between the wood and the tape, you need to score the caulk to give it a clean edge when you remove the tape.
Remove the tape and looky at that clean edge! I’ve used ScotchBlue painter’s tape before, but I can honestly tell you that the new Edge lock technology is a big improvement. As long as you press the edges down firmly there is hardly any places where paint seeped underneath. The only places seepage occurred was where there was a dimple or imperfection in the wall.
One thing I didn’t caulk was the light switch plate which I had to cut to fit next to the batten. I will probably go back and add a little caulk between the switch plate and the moulding.
I hope you learned something today. Coming up next, the bathroom reveal!